Hi Folks, I am in the process of doing my interior. Some of the wooden panels I bought have some scratches which I want to remove and get them shiny as the NOS parts I was lucky to get.
Has anyone done that before and can share some experiences and recommend methods or products?
it is the more "plastic" wood, not like the Classic or H&H real wood.
I thought of polishing with some stuff for acrylic surface. Maybe some clear coating afterwards?
As well the transparent gear lever surround is scratched and all the used ones don't look better ;-) Any tips for that, too?
Would be great.
Thanks
happy rangerovering!

You're highly probable correct ... most available tools are advertised for V8 and Td5. Mine has something written about the left hand / right hand thing of Diesel and Petrol engines as well. Good luck!

IMHo You should take off the fan anyway, because You'll ruin the water pump / visco coupling sooner or later. You won't have fan blades accelerated flying off under the bonnet, too.
You need a 36mm Spanner and hold the water pump, with the tool it is much easier, but maybe You can get it off without, as Your fan already went south. If it has been 10 years never removed, it usually will need some kind of "persuasion". Lots of solvent in advance, patience and good luck!

Hi leolito, ALR6336 rh, ALR6335 lh, around 48 £ available online at some suppliers.

Did it last week. Straight forward, if You have a two post lift.
Ten screws, brakelines, steering shaft, some wiring … nothing serious. Never seen an old Land Rover, where a body / Chassis swap is that easy. I have another breaker, where I‘ll repeat that in the next months.
The P38 is clearly made for the „marriage“ at the assembly line, the moment body and chassis meet in the factory.
Removal of engine / gearboxes was never that easy.
Was especially interesting for me, as it was a Thor / Motronic, mine is a GEMS. Quite a few differences in details.
Learning experience for an amateur. But I was allowed to use his workshop and massive supported by an outstanding Defender professional. He is the builder of that white „Sally“ Range Rover Classic on a Disco2 Chassis.
Full restoration although might be another topic, because the massive wiring loom(s). Doors are surprisingly nearly as easy as a series door ;-)
And hey, they do rust! 😉

You can maybe swap the seat base and the backrest from the manual ones to your electric bases. At least the bases are easy, been there, done that. Backrest should be manageable as well. Very modular and compatible construction, like a construction kit for adults ;-)
The inflatable lumbar support might give You some work, IMHO worth doing, as well as the more adjustable seat base. At least for my ergonomics ... Yours might vary.

Heating has the same plugs either manual or electric.

Hi Richard, maybe You saw one of these rare beauties?
https://www.dunsfoldcollection.co.uk/collection/range-rover/p38-limited-edition-50th-anniversary-carin
I know the Vogue50 badges, but never seen one …

One was for sale lately:
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/auctions/1998-range-rover-p38-50th-anniversary-vogue-50-limited-edition-WnkqV8

Over here there's a rumor that the crankshaft failure happens quite often in the SDV6, too. At least unusually often ... but I must confess, the D4 with the 3 Liter engine drives great. I searched and did the transfer trip with a D4 for a friend last year and after 150 or 200 Km it threw a message: reduced engine power ... parked, let turbo cool down, switch on and off, message disappeared. They are like windows computer ;-)
Nothing comparable to our P38, I fully agree with Richard, the P38 and the D2 are the last "real" Land Rover cars ...

Hi Dave3D, the clip with the lugs has the same function, fastening the carpet or rubber mats, fits the same place. Just another version ... would not bother, I like Your design much more! Thanks a lot, I guess we'll see much more like this coming soon, as I have seen already what big companies can do with 3d printing in metal ;-)

+1 this earth strap back of engine head. Was really curious following, as checking all earth point is one of the next it€ms on my schedule of preventative maintenance.

Donmacn Do You talk about the Earth lead left side (in driving direction)? It‘s going through the plastic between bonnet and windscreen ? On a LHD car right under the axis of the windscreen wiper, guess there should be a plug on a rhd.
Bolts to the body / bulkhead there.
Best regards KCR

Welcome at anonymous aluminium addicts P38 ... ;-)

I somewhat like the American pragmatic effective way of trailer lightning ;-)
until we had multicolored LED we were thinking in individual complex signal light compartments and colors …
question of taste, of course …

Bolt … hold my beer 😉 You might claim Neanthertalism culturally for You, which I can only accept, but I have the geographical (birth)place Neanderthal within half an hour drive 😜

Let’s talk about heritage, tribalism and taste … #scnr

I guess the genuine 7pin Plug / wiring kit part number is PRC9232?
A friend of mine has one for sale … still sealed / unused.

Iirc You guys in UK and US have different plugs, but for the continental European market are ready made plug & play wirings available ... e.g. island4x4. Just installed one a few weeks ago for a friend ...
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/towing-socket-harness-prc9232-p-19741.html

Yes ... but it mentions as well the second positive lead to rise the amount of ampere current for the compressor clutch or the whole system ;-)
But I might be on the completely wrong track for romanrobs problem ...

romanrob there's a technical service bulletin for this case, IIrc ... which I now realize have posted as a link before eyesroll

gr8 Richard, thanks a lot!

Does anyone have a good advice how too bench test a BW box outside the car ... if the viscous coupling has seized ... trying to turn both sides with long levers in neutral would be my guess?