No need to spell out the implications if Corbyn were running the shop.. IF :-(
Anyone else alarmed?
Edit - That's zero net carbon emissions (not gross)... But can't see how there'd be much scope to make negative carbon emissions (planting trees etc), in which case net must be similar to gross, which implies no internal combustion engines?
Also seems like both Labour and SNP are intending Glasgow to be the first place to go ice engine free zero carbon emission.
This is a bit after the event since you've bought new coil packs but...
Brian_H has mentioned using some sort of spark quality test equipment to identify failing coil packs on some of his cars.
Think I'm right in saying a P38 coil pack only has 3 LT input wires, would it be possible to swap the LT input wires and HT plug leads and see if the potential fault condition (sooty plugs) moves to the other set of plugs... I.e. swap which cylinders the good coil and the suspected dodgy coil (within a single coil pack) supply spark to. Or just swap the 2 coil pack positions lol... Going on memory I'm thinking they have 2 coil packs and each has 2 channels, each channel sparking 2 plugs.
mace wrote:
I ended up having Pirtek chop the end off of my pipe and put on a slightly longer rubber section to go to the pump, worked a treat and wasn't too bad cost wise either.
We spoke the other day - Have you got the LPG install finished yet? ;-)
Tyre diameter can be calculated, I think this is the way to do it...
Examples
255/65/16
sidewall height makes up 65% of 255mm so 255*0.65 = 165.75mm
Measuring tyre across it's diameter includes 2 sidewalls so 165.75x2 = 331.5mm in 2 sidewalls
The sidewalls sit on the wheel itself which is 16inch = 406.4mm
406.4+331.5 = 737.9mm = 29.05118"
255/70/16
178.5 x 2 = 357
406.4 + 357 = 763.4mm = 30.055"
A 720mm diameter LPG tank fits fairly snuggly in a P38 wheel well, doubt there's 43.4mm clearance at narrowest (front to rear?) point.
Great explanation and write up Clive, confirms my own thoughts on waterless coolant.
I wouldn't be happy buying a car with waterless coolant... Some use it in attempt to mask hg problems or similar.
Strangerover I've always thought coolant seems to find it's own level in petrol P38s. I don't own one but have released a bit of coolant during fitting LPG reducers and topped it up on hundreds of P38s. Put a bit more water in than was originally in before starting work only to find it's back at the original level after a few engine heat cycles with nothing to indicate a leak anywhere. Without a leak coolant will remain at that found level. Thought it must be the expansion cap venting pressure until there's enough headroom to lower pressure and prevent venting but I'm not sure this reasoning fully adds up. They nearly always come in with coolant level in the expansion tank lower than would be expected on a different model car and plenty owners have said it goes to that level and stays at it.
As just said in my PM....
I wouldn't put you off buying one that's already converted... not many are converted as I would recommend (which can make a difference to how well they run etc) and parts do wear but I can always put them right.
Good luck with your buy!
Any questions etc I'm always ready to answer and help.
Gilbertd wrote:
Best (only) deal for emergency valves is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38-RANGE-ROVER-AIR-SUSPENSION-SYSTEM-EAS-EMERGENCY-VALVES-SET/272726482487
I imagined having to make something like that and probably not as neat.
If anyone sees female connectors that will fit onto fuel rail pressure test / bleed valves (of which there are various sizes / threads / etc but usually schraeder type design) with a pigtail or some other way of connecting fuel pipe to the other end please let me know. On various model cars I convert I have to fit a petrol return, such bits would prevent having to cut into the petrol system.
Morat wrote:
Don't rule out the ones which are still on Petrol only. They tend to have lower mileage and you won't inherit an LPG system with a 10 year old tank and knackered injectors. I had mine converted immediately after purchase - you have to allow for it in your budget.
Simon, I have a spare rear bag in the garage and I'll probably get a front as well :)
Plus you'd notice if airbag(s) suddenly took one end sky high, disable the electric pump and fit the schraeder valve.. Unlike me at the time!
I too like the idea of buying petrol only then having it LPG converted... but I would say that lol ;-)
There's a P38 with 'For Sale' sign in the window around here (South Elmsall, Yorkshire), don't know if it's petrol or diesel.
Now I'll probably be told Headlight's in Florida.
If I ever bought a P38 I'd want it on airbags same as most here and I'd do the same as Morat carry schraeder valves just in case.
Driven loads of P38s on airbags, fewer on springs but still quite a few, I prefer the airbags and think they set P38s apart from similar vehicles in terms of ride quality. I'd want airbags even though an airbag on the rear of a Disco I was working on once exploded due to over-pressure (not the type of problem a schraeder valve could have helped with after the event but could have prevented if over-inflation was noticed before)... I wasn't working on the suspension, was working on the LPG system when an airbag went off like a shotgun, blast came as a surprise to me and to the many concerned looking faces that appeared at windows in the customer's area lol. Then I got roped in to fixing the suspension too, fitted a replacement airbag and ride height sensors but had to use a local Landrover specialist's OBD tool to calibrate ride height.
exhaust heat shield?
Morat wrote:
There is another option on Amazon
Lol no thanks! Some on the Elgrand forum reckon the female Jap voice (that too often comes over speakers especially when starting the engine or selecting reverse gear) sounds like she's giving them a bollocking. At least without the factory hinged screen option I don't have to suffer written or verbal bollockings.
At some point I'll probably pick up a standard reversing cam then. So can't the Garmin use a standard type cam?
Thanks.
Are any satnavs capable of using a remote screen (specifically the hinged one on the dash which is NTSC)? Compatible with none proprietary reversing cams?
Wondering if an Android unit could be fitted in place of the hinged screen.
Lots to look into because my reversing cam (which never worked) is different to standard (for the hinged screen setup), dunno if it's a Panasonic proprietary unit (for the old Panasonic 2 x single din setup that was fitted when I bought the car), the reversing cam might be broke anyway. Could easily buy a standard Elgrand reversing cam from a scrapyard which would work with the standard hinged screen but would it work with an Android unit?
Bit slow in replying on the thread I started - Thanks for replies/info.
The unit I fitted is a Pioneer MVH A210BT, it's a cheep and basic double-din touchscreen radio, no chance of it doing satnav but that aside it does all I want - analogue radio, bluetooth phone connection and could be connected to a reversing cam (but isn't). Fitted in haste before my holiday and without much research, I didn't want anything that took time to boot up (some Androids do apparently?), one of the things that sold it to me was it's physical mute button!
Most of these cars (Elgrands) have the factory option of hinged touchscreen on the dash fitted, when fitted the screen does all the heater controls, radio controls, satnav, reversing cam, even reports OBD problems... but in Japanese, cannot be changed to English and the satnav cannot be made to work anywhere except Japan! I prefer the dash heater controls with constant LED readout so no great loss besides the reversing cam. Ideally I'd like to keep the radio I have and fit a hinged screen from a scrapyard, connect it to a reversing cam and somehow get satnav working on it. Or I might just buy another Tomtom.
The question is in the topic title...
My old Tomtom is no longer supported by Tomtom, map is out of date and would like one with a bigger screen. I recently fitted a double din head unit (this isn't a P38) did consider an Android type (which could have had satnav built in) but went for a basic (none Android) touch screen type. Might as well also ask if point of interest files can be used with Android satnavs, or better still, be set up to keep updated with real time LPG station price info from Filllpg?
Posted in Opening Time as not really an electrickery subject.
BrianH wrote:
Morat wrote:
Of course... if you have converted to LPG you could have a go at an LPG powered fridge!
Well, maybe. I'm not sure how they work!PAGING SIMON!!!! Simon to the LPG Phone please :)
Thats usually called a caravan on the towbar
Possible... Good points are gas consumption is economical, work better (when level, i.e. not parked on a steep hill) than a thermo-electric fridge, no flattening of batteries to worry about. Bad points are you've got a flame inside the car, it would need an exhaust flu to prevent gassing vehicle occupants (with engine off / ventilation off) so that's a hole in the roof or side of the car, usually need to be level to work properly (though some fridges are much more forgiving than others in this respect), the flu's can lead to the flame being blown out in wind/while driving (some setups seem much better than others in this respect too). Best practice is to fit the fridge with not only an exhaust flu but also it's own intake air setup (hole in the floor under the flame), the LPG tank would need modding to have a vapour take-off fitted to run to a manual shut off valve to the regulator to the fridge.
Would usually be a caravan type fridge but freestanding 240/12v and gas fridges are available (I've always had one). The freestanding type aren't meant to be ran on gas in confined spaces, no easy way of connecting to a flu.
I do fit vapour take-offs on autogas tanks, as part of the setup I insist that I supply and fit the gate valve and regulator (both external) running a length of pipe from the regulator to where the customer needs (usually the gas inlet for their campervan). On most installs I fit the gate valve so it can be accessed by reaching a hand under the vehicle. To fit the vapour take-off (on external autogas tank) I drill a 3mm hole in the top of the tank, cut a 'hidden filler' boss in half (leaves a steel hexagonal pipe with 8mm pipe compression fitting, total length about 20mm), grind the hex down so it's round, weld it onto the tank over the hole, fit a cut down/shortened 90degree fitting into the compression fitting and run pipe (copper or Faro) from this to the gate valve which is fitted directly onto the regulator. I shouldn't really be modding/welding tanks but it is safe when the tank is external, could be safe internal if I came up with a way of fitting a gas tight housing around the mod (wouldn't be too difficult). This way there's only a 3mm hole in the tank (so if the worst happened and the fitting came off it wouldn't be toooo bad) and since the internal area of the fitting is only about 8mm diameter (50sq mm / 0.1sq inch) there'll only be around 30pounds pushing against the fitting/weld if the tank sees 20bar pressure (reckon the weld would be good for about a ton).
Recently bought a thermo-electric heat pump type fridge from Halfords to slot between the front seats on long trips, it will keep stuff cool if it's cool when it goes in but takes an age to pull temperature down if stuff isn't cold when put in. Will only cool to about 15degC below ambient temp, OK in an AC cooled car and only draws 6Amps at 12v. An electric compressor type would be a lot better, or would be possible to tap into AC lines and fit another evap in an enclosed box to make a very powerful fridge that would obviously only work with the engine running... I thought about doing this when I recently had AC problems and had to change my engine, would have been the ideal time to fit it, but in the end I just wanted to get the car running again.
Crazy prices but not to be unexpected for low mileage examples?
Even if I was very well off and really fancied a P38 the condition of the body, chassis and interior rather than the drivetrain would be more important than mileage... Mileage will affect the drivetrain sometimes in ways that are not easily evident but the proof is in the pudding with the bits I mentioned while an all new or rebuilt and good as new drivetrain can be had for a fraction of that figure. *Depending on how much I was going to spend - Spend a little and the priorities shift towards the drivetrain, spend a lot and the priorities shift toward the body and interior.
I've known mates pay over the odds for low mileage cars even when they've seen other examples with a bit more mileage that look and drive like they're fresher than the one they bought, never made sense to me.
Thanks for your very kind offer Dave, it's not something I intend on having a mess with just yet so I won't take you up on that.. Thanks again though.
I used to buy mags such as 'Fast Car' back in the late 80's early 90's, back then there seemed to be a few firms making big bore and/or long stroke versions of various engines including RV8's. At a time when the 3.9 might have been the biggest OEM RV8 some firms were making a 5L aftermarket version... Am I right in saying that one such firm's re-design of the RV8 which was a 4.6L version was adopted by LR for the now familiar OEM 4.6 ?
I miss the old mags like Fast Car, back then it was the owners modding their own cars and explaining in detail what they'd done to their cars. Just a few years later it all changed, there'd be similar stories but it wasn't the owners modding their own cars anymore, instead it became all about lads (some of whom had probably never wielded a spanner) paying firms loads of money to mod their cars, no technical write-ups because even the owners didn't know what these firms had actually done, firms secretive about their mods. There'd be stories about lads paying firm X £5000 to get 300bhp out of their RS Turbo, which then worked for a month before blowing up, so same lad would go back to firm X and pay them another £5k to get 320bhp out of their RS Turbo which would last another month before blowing up. Seemed crazy that these lads didn't insist on a warranty but were happy to pay firm X to experiment.
Maybe this one suffers the drained battery problem or has in the past, not something that came up in conversation with the owner.
Surprised the owner hasn't joined this forum, seemed really interested in joining and had a few issues that I told him people here could help him sort out, battery drain would be another one.
Maybe he's joined in the meantime so will now see this bumped thread and say hello...