Not wishing to be a party pooper, but would your vehicle still have type approval/MOT/Insurance after you modified a rather fundamental system?
What he said :)
I'd question using Goodridge hoses at all, they don't have a stellar reputation for reliability. I was a member on the Fiat Coupe and BMW E30 forums and both reported failures.
Of course, headlinings were the most popular option for attention at Summer Camp this year (hopefully we'll do one) - you should come over!
Is there a simple step by step anywhere for clearing the roof drains? I have to park the Duchess with her nose facing up hill at the moment :(
Sounds like there's a setting requiring Captcha and another setting to say how many log in attempts are required before Captcha fires up.
Or it's just b0rken :)
Ahh this - the problem was that I had a faulty sensor and the Nanocom reported the fault against the wrong sensor (front left IIRC)
I think the next step was to watch the live values when driving (under 4mph or something small because the ECU switches off comms above that speed) and we saw bad readings from a different sensor (Rear left?)
Don't bother with swapping the ECU just yet. Try recording the live values and compare with the fault report. Marty might have done a quick resistance test as well while I wasn't looking because he was already suspicious of the ABS sensor fault screen on the Nanocom.
The latest (released since summer camp) version of the Nanocom firmware has patch notes that imply this fault is fixed but I don't think anyone has test to confirm that the right sensors read in the right places.
Welcome Ash :)
Marty fitted my thermostats so I don't know the part No but I'm sure he'll sell you a pair from stock.
The heated seats are epic, if you have the uprated thermostat. Marty persuaded me against my OEM-only fetish that they were a good idea and with the cabin heat disconnected over winter I've thanked him pretty much every morning since!
Steady on Richard, that's almost as long as one of Simon's posts ;)
or show!
Hopefully not often but I'm glad my reduced is plumbed in parallel right now - even if it's sodding freezing driving round with no heat in January!!
That's a hell of a technique Mark! You must have used the whole socket set on that one. I reckon you should do a HowTo video and post it on youtube :)
Steady Richard, I'm not worthy yet. I need to do some burnouts in MaccyDs carpark before I can be condered for a job there.....
... changed a headlight bulb, one of the H4s AND it was the driver's side one which is slightly masked by the uber-battery.
I'm feeling smug :-)
Time to get busy with the random orbital polisher ;)
When I bought one recently I did the same trawl and ended up buying from Island for £120 inc so I think you've already got the best option there.
Gilbertd wrote:
If you buy the head gasket set from Island (go for the one with Elring gaskets) you'll get a set of valve stem seals in the set so you may as well fit them while the heads are off. Same really goes for lapping the valves in, if the springs are off to change the stem seals, why not?
An aftermarket head unit with line level outputs will be just that, industry standard line level, usually 1V p-p, but the original puts out more than that so the danger is that the amps will be under driven. Using the speaker outputs and the attenuator network works well as the levels and impedance are correct. Anything with an output for a sub, can be connected to the original sub so even that will work. The difference in the remote controls between early and late is the values of resistors used so if using an aftermarket head unit you just need the suitable adapter to suit the later steering wheel.
UJ's, take them off and give them a wiggle. They can appear to be fine while still attached to the car unless they are really shot, so disconnecting one end of a propshaft is the only way to be sure.
Multipoint LPG will be slightly more efficient but neither will contribute to head or liner issues. That's yet another old wives tale from people that know naff all about LPG conversions. My first LPG car was an old Saab 900 and I mentioned to a highly regarded Saab specialist that it was running on LPG and he told me the valves would be shot in 10,000 miles. When I told him it had 260,000 miles on the clock, had been converted at 40,000 miles and the head had never been off in it's life, he just shrugged and walked away. You'll get a 90 litre full toroidal tank in the spare wheel well, good for around 240 ish miles range. Hardly worth messing around with smaller additional ones. The smaller petrol tanks are for the Classic not the P38 and the torpedo tanks along the chassis rails were fitted to Discovery's which don't have a spare wheel well. They are also relatively small so not really worth the effort and complication. Simon, LPGC, will supply you a kit of parts to fit yourself or will do you a complete conversion. You can get a kit from the likes of LPGShop but if you get stuck while fitting it you are on your own whereas Simon prides himself on after sales service no matter how stupid the question. Drop him a PM and see what he would charge and compare it with your local installers.
This reminds me, I'm still jealous of your 240 miles tank range. I think it's time to get back underneath and change over the last O2 before a visit to Simon....
OldShep56 wrote:
Been to Versailles a good few times. Beautiful little town.
It's about an hour from my parent's place, really beautiful but not popular with the French!