It's pretty fascinating! I had the software to connect to the old system on my Jeep and I was able to get a decent idea of how if worked, if not how to fix it :)
Only if you show them the receipts for the new parts.....that WOULD be bad :P
Sounds like a real pain in the arse... can't you take the sunroof first? :)
It was just letting you know ;)
Well, at least it has been loved in the past. I suspect you're right though, the guys who do the whole job for £500 make a good case
G'wan! before the temps drop to sub-artic and you're sitting there without a nice comfy Range Rover to drive through the ice...
Damn, I've got a long way to go :(
I need to whisper about a certain heater matrix too ;)
It's minging! Apologies to any owners with blue highlights :)
I thought £15k was a little steep, no?
I agree, it really should be standard. BMWs have done it since at least the 1980s..
Something to help you beat buyer's remorse ;)
http://www.motors.co.uk/car-42854387/7/sp
Piano Black certainly beats that minging fake marble stuff!
That's a pretty good survival rate!
I've saw a few for sale when I was looking for mine, but as you say there's so little info out there to be sure of what it actually meant. Of course, half of them were probably just Vogues with an SE badge.
I don't know what I expected the heater box to look like on the inside but that wasn't it. Fascinating, thanks Sloth!
It sounds like you're getting quite close to dual batteries and a proper split charging system ;)
I'm pretty sure (but I don't have sources) that PV cells do better under proper daylight because of the broad spectrum. I may be wrong.. it has been known.
Anyway, 90ma should at least reduce the net rate of discharge by a decent amount. During the day at least.
It does sound like a head gasket, but they're almost service items!
Remember, these engines date from long before the time when engines effectively became sealed units designed to last for the warranty period.
Sloth wrote:
I put my pre-requisite because I know a lot of P38s have HEVAC issues, but I wasn't quite expecting this lack of volunteers :) I jest.
Sadly, I can only meet one of your pre-reqs - Engine Warmed Up. Sorry!
(20 degrees cabin temperature is a distant memory)
I'll get some draft excluder in for my trip to Marty, top tip.
Ahh the long steady slog from someone else's Good Riddance to your New Best Friend :)
I'm sure you'll get there, you've got all winter to swear at it!
My engine bay was lovely and clean not long ago but some enthusiastic splashing through muddy puddles has made it a bit grubby. The final straw was following a slurry tanker today which was as slurry-tight as it should have been and the whiff is now pretty grim.
Can I get away with just hosing it down? Do I need to take any precautions? I know some cars really hate water under the bonnet (I've owned a Fiat in the past!) and some don't seem to mind. I'm thinking that a bucket of dilute degreaser, some scrubbing brush agitation and then a good rinse with the hose would be my plan A but I thought I'd better check.
What is the collective wisdom of the forum?
Injectors and the reducer, but if they're working - they're working! Some last for 10 years some don't.
The thing to look out for is the tune which can/will slip over time. My Jeep had knackered exhaust valves/guides from years of lean running and that's an iron head.
The tank should (theoretically) be re-certified after 10 years but the only economic option is to replace it if you're concerned. If it's living in the wheel well and rust free, that's a different proposition to an underslung tank that has been covered in cr*p for 9.5 years. Up to you, really.