Steady on Richard, that's almost as long as one of Simon's posts ;)

or show!

Hopefully not often but I'm glad my reduced is plumbed in parallel right now - even if it's sodding freezing driving round with no heat in January!!

That's a hell of a technique Mark! You must have used the whole socket set on that one. I reckon you should do a HowTo video and post it on youtube :)

Steady Richard, I'm not worthy yet. I need to do some burnouts in MaccyDs carpark before I can be condered for a job there.....

... changed a headlight bulb, one of the H4s AND it was the driver's side one which is slightly masked by the uber-battery.
I'm feeling smug :-)

Time to get busy with the random orbital polisher ;)

When I bought one recently I did the same trawl and ended up buying from Island for £120 inc so I think you've already got the best option there.

Gilbertd wrote:

If you buy the head gasket set from Island (go for the one with Elring gaskets) you'll get a set of valve stem seals in the set so you may as well fit them while the heads are off. Same really goes for lapping the valves in, if the springs are off to change the stem seals, why not?

An aftermarket head unit with line level outputs will be just that, industry standard line level, usually 1V p-p, but the original puts out more than that so the danger is that the amps will be under driven. Using the speaker outputs and the attenuator network works well as the levels and impedance are correct. Anything with an output for a sub, can be connected to the original sub so even that will work. The difference in the remote controls between early and late is the values of resistors used so if using an aftermarket head unit you just need the suitable adapter to suit the later steering wheel.

UJ's, take them off and give them a wiggle. They can appear to be fine while still attached to the car unless they are really shot, so disconnecting one end of a propshaft is the only way to be sure.

Multipoint LPG will be slightly more efficient but neither will contribute to head or liner issues. That's yet another old wives tale from people that know naff all about LPG conversions. My first LPG car was an old Saab 900 and I mentioned to a highly regarded Saab specialist that it was running on LPG and he told me the valves would be shot in 10,000 miles. When I told him it had 260,000 miles on the clock, had been converted at 40,000 miles and the head had never been off in it's life, he just shrugged and walked away. You'll get a 90 litre full toroidal tank in the spare wheel well, good for around 240 ish miles range. Hardly worth messing around with smaller additional ones. The smaller petrol tanks are for the Classic not the P38 and the torpedo tanks along the chassis rails were fitted to Discovery's which don't have a spare wheel well. They are also relatively small so not really worth the effort and complication. Simon, LPGC, will supply you a kit of parts to fit yourself or will do you a complete conversion. You can get a kit from the likes of LPGShop but if you get stuck while fitting it you are on your own whereas Simon prides himself on after sales service no matter how stupid the question. Drop him a PM and see what he would charge and compare it with your local installers.

This reminds me, I'm still jealous of your 240 miles tank range. I think it's time to get back underneath and change over the last O2 before a visit to Simon....

OldShep56 wrote:

Been to Versailles a good few times. Beautiful little town.

It's about an hour from my parent's place, really beautiful but not popular with the French!

It's probably a good idea to run it on petrol for while so the Motronic adapts properly before you try and map the LPG.
I'm glad you can't see The Duchess at the moment, winter roads are not kind! Roll on Spring and I'll be able to do more than Karcher the underside...

Locktite should come up with something to fix that problem. Or maybe they already have?
Gotta say Mr Orange, you're really getting stuck into that truck - I admire your determination!

Yep, VEEAM is worth every penny and more. Off-brand SATA disk arrays on the other hand.... not so much. Of course, the budget meeting to approve their replacement is on Wednesday. If I make it that far!

Swap you for a set of iSCSI storage arrays that have failed in a new, wonderful way and taken out lots of important stuff on their way down. OK, I'm warm and dry but I'm shitting bricks right now. It's taken me six hours to beat VMWare into shape to start receiving restore jobs. Payroll on Monday - this could make me very unpopular!

I think he's busy fixing everyone else's problems!

Orangebean wrote:

I'll let you know how the LED Headlights + Nightlighter supplimentary mains compare with the Nightlighters/ KC Daylighter combo on my blue one. Main beam I'm not too fussed about but with my deteriorating night vision I'm hoping for great things from dipped LED lights

Gilbertd wrote:

I'm trying to decide if it's worth £70 to cause my MoT tester to scratch his head and have to get his book out.

I don't know if this will affect you/your eyes but there is a law of diminishing returns when it comes to super bright dipped beams. I found with various sets of HIDs on a BMW that once you pass a certain point the amount of light coming back at you from the road starts to make it difficult to see anything beyond the area illuminated by the dipped beam.

Obviously this is going to vary case by case but it's not always true that brighter is better. If your eyesight changes are making it difficult for you to cope with contrast and dazzle you might find that this point is reached earlier than you would otherwise suspect.

If Salvador Dali painted headlights....

Fantastic news Marty - I bet that's a great weight off your mind :)
And what a mate Sloth is!

What was the verdict on the old engine? Will it run again or is it off to the great dyno in the sky?

Orangebean wrote:

You could try sticking a 5W-40 in there for the winter

I'd run it all year round, except The Duchess likes a bit of a drink.....
so she only gets 10/40 semi

I gap my NGKs to 0.7mm but that's standard for my Jeep. Haven't changed any plugs in the Range Rover yet. I vote for standard plugs, standard gap - and NGK are top of the heap. LPG does need a decent spark, so you might notice a shorter service life but nothing that makes the super expensive "LPG specific" plugs worthwhile.

There's some bloke called Marty near Swindon.. or so legend goes.. I hear he's pretty handy ;)