They're used as digital, certainly. One of the sets in the video is programmed to receive on analogue so we can hear what is busying up the repeater. The video shows short bursts, sometimes they're a couple of minutes long and we can't transmit because it's using both channels. I'm chasing our radio supplier.

Oh, Ofcom say our channel is shared but there shouldn't be anyone nearby.

Hmm, the plot thickens.
http://www.lard.me.uk/Interference.mp4

I wonder if our repeater is buggered :(

I can record more if it's useful.. For that one I just used a recording app on my phone, a radio and a quiet room. Is the quality good enough to read it into your kit? I'm not sure if that sample had the header because I was using a "Skip Silence" feature but whoever it is is transmitting regularly enough for me to wait about.

We're using 75 Hytera 7 series handhelds with a repeater and two channels. The kit is about 3 years old and this interference started at about Christmas time so maybe it was a shiny new Mtrbo present for someone :)

Thanks! That has eliminated a huge amount of dicking about!
Our system is licensed and current - I'll check the paperwork tomorrow but I think it's a Technically Assigned license. Our supplier (Zycomm) have checked the list of license allocations and there's nothing in our area on our frequency.

I'll head down to the repeater tomorrow, and check over the config before calling Ofcom just in case it's an embarassing own goal.
Not that I've made any changes recently, but you never know! I might ask a local Amateur to listen in on our freq and see if he can get any clues to help out. My initial guess would be taxis, the problems seem to start slowly in the morning, ramp up by mid day and last until late at night.

Again, thanks a lot. This is causing our radios to be pretty much inoperable for large periods of the day and that causes us a lot of Health and Safety type implications quite apart from the general PITA.

Gilbertd :)
I wonder if you could cast your expert ear over the following recording?
http://www.lard.me.uk/nastynoise.wav

Something really horrible is interfering with our work radio repeater. It's located in a Farm Yard with adjoining works yard and joinery shop, so there's loads to go at and I can't think of anyone with more experience who might be able to narrow it down a little bit!

I can't stretch to £350 a day and free F1 tickets but I could manage a pint :)

OK Marty, like I said there's no pressure on the switch pack. I'm definitely not backing out of the purchase but I'm happy to slip down the queue if you're busy. I'm concentrating on the fuelling for now.

I'll send you the ABS ECU with the switchpack for you to prod :)

MAF.. heh. Exactly what Simon LPG suggested to start with. Better not tell him!
I'll prod the nanocom and come back with some readings if you don't mind looking them over. There's a lot on that page I don't understand.

Marty - I've still got this ABS ECU that I forgot to bring down to summer camp. I'm not keen to have it destroyed (unless it turns out to be a bad one) but if it could be of value to science then I'm happy to lend it to you on a long term basis. Should I send it down?

edit: Sorry - yes please to the switch pack! I'd like to get something off the list :)

Marty, I've been running it on petrol to eliminate the LPG from the equation - for exactly the reasons you describe :)

As for the switchpack - yes please but you'll have to talk me through it or I'll break something else!
(wood one, with sunroof?)
Cheers,
Miles

Sloth wrote:

Those plugs can be an arse to get undone... especially when covered in oil!

The rough road thing I think is normal.

The water drip may be condensate from the air conditioning - if its clear it probably is. The drains are either side of the gearbox. If you get underneath and look up with a torch, you'll see the black rubber things that have a cross cut into them high up.

Ahh thanks. Aircon condensate makes a lot of sense. I'll check for sure next time I'm underneath (which probably won't be too long!)

I'll have another go at the O2 plug, my mate Bob did the whole thing in 10 minutes and I can't for the life of me remember whether he used something cunning to undo the plug or just relied on the fact that he has hands like molegrips.

I'll keep driving the thing for now and try to work out why the adaptive values would be out of range with no other reported faults. Airleak?

gordonjcp wrote:

RRS is derived from the ABS ECU if I recall correctly, not the suspension.
Yes, I'm sure you're right. My mixed up mind had overlooked the fact that I was looking in the Motronic inputs and not the EAS!

a couple of other things!
I noticed that the Rough Road Signal is flipping from 0V to 12V for about half a second every two seconds ish. NO idea what that's all about! but I suspect it has a lot to do with the suspension deciding to hit offroad mode on the motorway @70mph every now and then. The dancing suspension is a bit further down the list right now but if the RRS inhibits the knock protection while I'm having mixture issues I'm a bit more concerned.

I've noticed what looks like a water leak/drip a few times when my wife pulls away from parking. Coolant levels seem OK so I've kinda ignored it. To get at the O2 sensor I parked with two wheels on an 18" high verge and saw that the leak is a pretty steady drip on to/past the passenger side catalyst (that was the high side). Is there is a windscreen washer line or something above that area? It's been dry today.

Well it's not bad, but it's not perfect....
The general symptoms are:
Low MPG (2.8/-2.9 miles/litre on LPG)
Hesitation on Petrol at about 3500 rpm on hardish acceleration (seems OK on WOT). No hesitation on Gas (maybe because the LPG is richer?)

I'd had a code showing a sensor fault for the upstream o2 bank1, which I tried to change but I couldn't undo the bloody plug*. So, just in case it was throwing the code because the LPG was running too rich for the ECU to lean it back out I reset the adaptive values and took it for a drive on Petrol only to see what happenned.

Immediately after reseting the adaptive values, the idle went to hell. Nasty and lumpy. It took about 5 minutes to get back to normal. Then I took it for a short drive. It was weak, very weak but it kept running and slowly improved.
Codes: Adaptive values out of range, both banks. Knock sensor (1 time). Strangely, I didn't see any misfires recorded on the misfire screen.

I cleared the codes and did ~35 miles on petrol on back roads and tried to get into every part of the rev range in low, medium and high throttle openings. It started out pretty grim but did settle down to being properly driveable, with the exception of the 2/3 throttle hesitation at 3500-4000 revs. You have two choices at that point, back off and let the 'box change up so you can pull away again at just below kickdown or just floor it and it moves on again.

Finally I parked her up and checked the codes again. This time just the "adaptive values out of range, signal too high" for both banks.
So.. I don't think the 02 sensor is necessarily bad. I've been watching the live output and they both seem to switch between the same ranges (about 0.01 to 1.4). Bank one did take a while to read anything from cold(ish) after the first reset - I don't know if that is enough in itself to require a swap. I have the part if necessary, just need to get it up on a ramp and get medieval on it's ass!

Does anyone have any suggestions? I can get whatever info is required from the Nanocom, I just wish you could tell it to "dump everything" to the SD card from Motronic, but if it does that I haven't found the option. Personally, I'm leaning back towards MAF again.. but I don't know these engines - yet 🉑

*I really suck at this :( I couldn't fit my hands far enough up the gap to get a decent grip on it, and I wasn't strong enough to do it with fingertips.

But at least you'll know there's nothing worn out!!

Heh, funny you should mention that hose - I just bought some to replace the slightly dribbly one we spotted at Summer Camp. I don't know if it will cope with the bends without elbows, but I'm going to give it a try before ordering up extra bits.

And now I realise that it's 10mm for that pipe and not the 8mm I ordered! Bollox :)
Ah well, it's pretty cheap!

It could be rich....but I'd go richer first just to be safe.

Hmmm. sounds to me like a roll of Kunifer and a couple of flare tools would be a good addition to the next RR meet!

Ooh good spot! Purchased :)
Thank you very much. I'll swap that over next week. I hope the nanocom wasn't doing the same thing with swapping the fault code over as it does for the ABS Sensors! Although, it's too late now - the old Bank 2 sensor is long gone.

I'll give Simon at LPGCCccc a bell and make sure he's available to do the tweaking once the petrol side is sorted.

Apart from the cost, this won't be damaging to the engine will it? I've got another long trip this weekend. I can take the Jeep but the Rangey is more comfortable.

EDIT: can a mod split this thread? I don't want to clutter this LPG thread with my engine woes :)

Curses! I reset the adaptation values at lunchtime and went into town and back. Adaptive values out of range for both banks and O2 sensor fault bank1 upstream. Not much point getting it re-mapped until I change the other O2, I guess. Still, it means there's probably more to come :)

Sloth wrote:

I've done this before too a few times, usually after tinkering with the dash and then wondering what the hell I'd forgotten to plug back in!

At least the battery works in your siren ;)

Yep! and it's B**£$Y loud with the bonnet open :)

I've used Mintex before on my Jeep and had nothing but good things to say about them. Glad they're working for you, but it's probably down to those stainless bolts on the brake shields! :)