Zinc is very important for old flat tappet engines from everything I've read. If a genuine lubrication engineer wants to step in I'd love to hear more.
Yes, the Comma 5w50 is lower in Zinc than some other grades at 900ppm vs 1200ppm which is the highest I've found so far. But I went with the higher viscosity and compromised a bit on the Zinc, because it's still much higher in Zinc than oils designed to the latest manufacturer specs (which don't seem to have any at all).
Who's right? Who can tell?!! See you in 50,000 miles :D
(I hope!)
Yoink!!! :)
It makes even more of a difference in Low Range!
But in a completely different way, it's really cool having a manual option for hill descents etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-MS5L-Motorsport-Fully-Synthetic/dp/B003BPSW6A
OK, that's an ugly link :(
But that's the Comma oil I use in the Duchess.
Happy New Year :)
Let's hope for vaccinations, pubs open, a swift economic recovery and maybe a P38 meet!
That's how it should be, but not how mine is!
Back in the days before multigrade oils, 30 weight was very common, and you'd have to change your oil in the winter to a lighter weight for better starting!
The original Buick V8s will have run on single grade oil when they were first produced. I don't know what grade they used back then but it would be interesting to find out and see how the second number in the oil recommendation has changed over the years.
LOL, I disappeared down a bit of a rabbit hole in the internerd and found this: https://www.hometownbuick.com/1955-buick-lubricare-instructions/
It turns out that the recommended oil weight for a 1955 Buick LeSabre (which looks like a V8 on the picture) was 20W when the minimum ambient temp was 32F. That's a lot thinner that I thought! No wonder engines didn't last very long...
Mine will be VERY Merry - there's bugger all else to do!
Have a good one chaps, 21 needs to be a massive party to make up for a lost year :P
One day I'll buy an ultrasonic cleaner but until then, brake cleaner is pretty awesome stuff.
Yes, the good old Jeep 4.0 is another pushrod/flat tappet engine so I run the recommended 5w30 in mine and it has 1200ppm Zinc (ZDDP) to try and keep the tappets in order.
I raised the viscosity in the P38 after Gilbert said the original recommendation for the RV8 was a heavier oil, but I run 5W for superior cold start protection. Of course, the fancy multigrade oils we have now were just not available back when these engines were designed so there had to be more of a compromise between protection for cold start vs running at temp.
I run both vehicles on Comma oils, which are great value IMO.
5W is good for cold start protection. The first number doesn't affect viscosity once the engine is up to temp.
I run 5w50 with lots of zinc (which is recommended for flat tappets), after changing from 10w40.
I have a strange affection for the Green on Green anniversary models with picnic tables and DVDs. But there's nothing in there that would really make me want to pay lots of money for one.
I did a tip run too, but they'd have a heart attack if you tried to take a trailer to our ti.. err Recycling Centre!
I do have fundamental disagreement with diesels for these reasons. They're great for slow revving torquey industrial applications (especially for static engines at constant revs) but once you try and make them drive like a petrol engine it all gets a bit too much. Running them hot and high revving just doesn't suit them - they're better off with a 2500rpm redline and a ton of gears.
I got to 100 in mine. Didn't feel anything special, but I haven't seen any need to do it again.
I do take my vehicles to the redline/WoT every couple of weeks or so and get a full bore gear shift from the autobox. It does seem to cheer them up a bit, and me as well.
I find the biggest difference is going on a long trip after my usual diet of short trips, any vehicle seems noticeably smoother and more eager after a few hours of running.
I found some BFG fuel coupons the other month... happy days filling up at Wankum on the German/Dutch border for 17ppl :)
Interesting! I didn't think of that!
I think no 12 has the most potential for expensive repair and is the one I'd investigate (or have investigated) first. It could very well be related to Head Gasket woes and if the coolant hasn't been flushed since the HG change then I guess the coolant test could still show a leak. A pressure test on the coolant system would tell you if there's still a leak. If not, you're good to go - although I'd get the coolant flushed and replaced.
The rest is pretty standard stuff. The balljoints and radius arm bushes can be a pig without the correct tools but there are hardy souls on here who have DIYd them.
Don't get your leg lifted for EAS faults, even I can replace a height sensor and a leak could just be a pipe that hasn't been installed properly or some old, dry O rings.
I don't understand point 10. Is that a new drag link? or do they mean the Pitman arm?
It sounds like a long list and it's bad luck that they're all coming at once - I'd question the acutal state of the some of the "worn" items if you we happy test-driving the car a few months ago. P38s need their undercarriage to be in good nick or they can become quite a handful. But, click on my username and you'll see what I've had replaced on my 2001 which came with 97k and now shows about 135k
They removed the 100m error in May 2000 so it's more accurate than ever!
I do find it amazing that the P38 designers installed a rudimentary Inertial Navigation System to back up the GPS and help with that 100m error.
Congrats and pics please! 😀😀