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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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StrangeRover wrote:

I added the list of stuff I've done to mine in the "notes" section of my profile.

"cough"

lol

Still wouldn't have any other car though so it's worth it to me, smiles per gallon!

Hah, so have I - it soon adds up doesn't it! :)

Ooof - close one!! Well done for resurrecting it.
(and yes, Jeeps are handy to have around! hehe)

125 milesof mainly A road today. After lock down it seemed like a transcontinental road trip!

All perfect except without the "sidelight LH" warning and beep I left the bloody headlights on and had to beg a jumpstart. Ah well. The new tyres were super quiet 👍

£1k a year is a good number even without labour. It certainly beats depreciation!

Richard, if you charged your time at £75 an hour how close would you be to Clive's figures? :)
Engine swaps are cheap DIY if you have tools skills and time. Of those I have.. err... your number? haha :)

MOT here too - no advisories :)
but... they did spot and tighten some prop bolts. Errrr, that would be me!
But I've bought a torque wrench since then so it won't happen again, honest guv.

Sorted, really helpful thanks. It obviously hadn't moved for a very long time so I was 50:50 on breaking that!

Anticlockwise. Gotcha. Thanks Richard!

Hi folks. I need to change one of the sidelight bulbs on the Duchess. I can find the back of the sidelight easy enough but it doesn't seem to want to shift. Is there a trick to it? I've tried some wiggling and general messing about but I'm getting very strong Brittle Plastic vibes and don't want to cause a mess ahead of an MOT tomorrow.
Any ideas please?

Morat

That's just about LEJoG isn't it?

leolito wrote:

Sorry I run 16" and have no experience on Michelins.
Coming from an AT to a full street tire would certainly benefit noise performance and fuel consumption.
Interested to hear how it goes out of the hard surfaces, compared to the AT you had ...

I'm not expecting any great performance off road, but having pondered the use that I've put this vehicle to since buying it - the offroad driving I've done has mainly been driving round the events fields at work on grass with the very occasional muddy track. If I need to do some proper offroading, I've still got the Jeep with Grabber AT3s which is a smaller/lighter vehicle so probably the better option for soft ground.

What I really want the Duchess to do is be a safe, comfy road car with great performance in the the winter and the ability to tow light trailers across flat grass fields when we have events at work.

16s would be the better choice for offroading anyway, so maybe I'll get a set of those with proper offroad tyres if I ever get round to doing green lanes/RTV trials and that sort of thing in the P38.

They were Genuine Goodridge and they failed - more than one set. If it was PTFE then it was the PTFE that failed. Like I say, it could have been a bad batch but it was a very close call in some cases.

I'm no expert but I avoid braided lines after a series of failures affected the Fiat Coupe community a good few years ago. Maybe it was a bad batch from Goodridge or maybe it was because it's hard to inspect the rubber lines under the pretty stainless - maybe we just got unlucky with the resonance effects that Clive brought up. I guess we'll never know.
If you keep on top of standard flexi lines you've a good chance of replacing them when they're weak.

Well, I'll take that as a vote of confidence :)

They're noticeably quieter than the last set of tyres (Grabber AT, the smooth ones) and give a lot of confidence in the damp/wet. I haven't had a change to try a dry road yet.
They're not rated for offroad but if I want to do more of that I might get a set of 16" wheels and more suitable tyres.

I've just ordered a set of Michelin Cross Climates for my 18s.
Last chance for anyone to tell me they're rubbish!!

I drove her round a classic car show, as a works van/trailer towing vehicle. There weren't many exhibitors vehicles I'd have swapped for :)

Same system as my Jeep then. Sadly the Jeep already has a whole for the fuel pump and the NRV is replaceable without pulling the pump.
Hey ho.

Thing is, I can't find out for sure if there is an NRV type thing in the fuel system. I'd assume there's one on top of the fuel pump, but assumptions....

Hmmm, I'm sure it's the petrol system as running the pump long enough ensures a good start but it'd be interesting to see if I can even start on gas.
Simon fitted it, I'll have to ask him for the magic combo.

I had another conversation with Richard while he was on the Autoroute... and we reckoned it's probably leaky injectors.

But, before I go down that route - is there a non-return valve in the P38 fuel system? I'm guessing that if there is, mine could be goosed.