That's just about LEJoG isn't it?

leolito wrote:

Sorry I run 16" and have no experience on Michelins.
Coming from an AT to a full street tire would certainly benefit noise performance and fuel consumption.
Interested to hear how it goes out of the hard surfaces, compared to the AT you had ...

I'm not expecting any great performance off road, but having pondered the use that I've put this vehicle to since buying it - the offroad driving I've done has mainly been driving round the events fields at work on grass with the very occasional muddy track. If I need to do some proper offroading, I've still got the Jeep with Grabber AT3s which is a smaller/lighter vehicle so probably the better option for soft ground.

What I really want the Duchess to do is be a safe, comfy road car with great performance in the the winter and the ability to tow light trailers across flat grass fields when we have events at work.

16s would be the better choice for offroading anyway, so maybe I'll get a set of those with proper offroad tyres if I ever get round to doing green lanes/RTV trials and that sort of thing in the P38.

They were Genuine Goodridge and they failed - more than one set. If it was PTFE then it was the PTFE that failed. Like I say, it could have been a bad batch but it was a very close call in some cases.

I'm no expert but I avoid braided lines after a series of failures affected the Fiat Coupe community a good few years ago. Maybe it was a bad batch from Goodridge or maybe it was because it's hard to inspect the rubber lines under the pretty stainless - maybe we just got unlucky with the resonance effects that Clive brought up. I guess we'll never know.
If you keep on top of standard flexi lines you've a good chance of replacing them when they're weak.

Well, I'll take that as a vote of confidence :)

They're noticeably quieter than the last set of tyres (Grabber AT, the smooth ones) and give a lot of confidence in the damp/wet. I haven't had a change to try a dry road yet.
They're not rated for offroad but if I want to do more of that I might get a set of 16" wheels and more suitable tyres.

I've just ordered a set of Michelin Cross Climates for my 18s.
Last chance for anyone to tell me they're rubbish!!

I drove her round a classic car show, as a works van/trailer towing vehicle. There weren't many exhibitors vehicles I'd have swapped for :)

Same system as my Jeep then. Sadly the Jeep already has a whole for the fuel pump and the NRV is replaceable without pulling the pump.
Hey ho.

Thing is, I can't find out for sure if there is an NRV type thing in the fuel system. I'd assume there's one on top of the fuel pump, but assumptions....

Hmmm, I'm sure it's the petrol system as running the pump long enough ensures a good start but it'd be interesting to see if I can even start on gas.
Simon fitted it, I'll have to ask him for the magic combo.

I had another conversation with Richard while he was on the Autoroute... and we reckoned it's probably leaky injectors.

But, before I go down that route - is there a non-return valve in the P38 fuel system? I'm guessing that if there is, mine could be goosed.

Drove it in endless circles at work... events field, office, events field, office
She didn't complain. Much nicer than a Gator!

Your choice - Good luck!

Hmmm, I could really do without replacing the fuse box.. but - is there a way to inspect it that isn't too destructive?

Wahay, progress! It's all looking very sharp indeed :)

I guess the crank sensor isn't necessarily in the clear yet - but it was registering engine speed every time I cranked the car but it only started once (after i'd messed with the fuel pump).
Time to get the fuel pressure gauge out as well!

OK, that's weird.

I cranked it and saw 0 rpm change to 155rpm. Coolant temp was a reasonable 15 degrees.

First crank caused a bit of a start and it died in half a second. Almost like it had a tiny amount of fuel but wasn't getting any more...

So I found the fuel pump relay option on the inputs page and flipped that on to see if I could hear the fuel pump running. I couldn't but that could just be my ears.

I flipped it on/off a few times and cranked again - perfect start.

Assuming the fuel pump relay works as I think it does, I wonder if the fuel pump isn't priming properly and maybe I have some leaky injectors which are reducing the fuel pressure after a few days sitting idle? Weirdness.
I'll see if it starts again in an hour or so.

All great suggestions for narrowing it down - thank you!
I'll report back :)

Hi folks,
the fun has begun again. I foolishly filled the Duchess with fuel and she immediately went into a sulk.
She'll crank all day but no start. The first crank came with a bit of a cough and 3-4 cylinders fired, nothing ever since.
In the past she was getting temperamental and would do this, then start perfectly after an hour or so. To try and fix that she had new plugs, wires, and coils and the problem seemed to be solved.
However, it was only ever a problem in the damp and the weather has been rubbish recently.
On Richard's suggestion I slapped the EKA in, no change.

I'm wondering - could it be the chip in the (only) fob? or is that ridiculous? The remote functions work OK (pretty much). Is there a way to know if the transponder in the fob is goosed?

Otherwise, I guess I need to get a plug out and check for spark when I have a minute.

Nanocom showed "adaptation out of range Bank1" 5 times when I first checked it. I've cleared that and it hasn't come back, which I guess isn't surprising as she hasn't run since!

Clues if you have them please, I'm all out!
Morat

Welcome!