Checked the oil before driving 3 hrs back from the boat. Found the Coolant Cap sitting on the fusebox lid. Oops.
Which Grabbers? It's a name that covers several models...
If you left in a DC3 it must have been pretty hardcore!
phazed wrote:
Just ordered a set of 5 Grabber AT3s. Not everyone's choice but for me the car is more of a winter car with the odd green lane thrown in.
I will be picking them up fitted to a refurbished set of Mondial wheels on Tuesday they have goodr reviews, better in the wet than I thought.
I'm tempted - as I have them on my Jeep and rate them highly for that application but the Jeep is a very different beast. Could you write a mini review when you get them? pretty please?
I've never taken a P38 carpet out but from experience with other cars, Kitchen Roll is cheap and works better than newspaper. Dehumidifiers work in the car if you're patient/dealing with a small spill. I have a large bucket of Damprid that lasted a surprisingly long time and took up lots of water.
I've never tried an industrial type dehumidifier (as used by flood victims) but I'd imagine they'd work really well too.
Ok.. the 2001 cupholders work fine for me! (and my wife who is nearly 6ft)
Hey - the cupholders work a treat!
Dammit, the front one I need is POA - Dare I actually A?
StrangeRover wrote:
The R12 system in my Shadow gets so cold frost appears on the airvents lol
They did it better in the old days ;)
They used proper Freon in the old days! Sadly the penguins didn't appreciate it :(
Hi Luke and welcome. :)
I think you probably need to get a P38 code reader on there and pull the codes again. Where are you in the country? There's probably someone nearby with a nanocom.
Top Work, you must be proud!!
I'm for cutting. It's not a nice thought at first but if you ever get fuel pump issues you'll be glad of the hatch. You can easily make it vapour tight.
I picked her Ladyship up from town and saw 31C on the HEVAC. An unusually hot day in Yorkshire!
I can recommend the Pol Roger
For anyone who is wondering whether to get a nanocom... do it!
It makes garage jealous when you say things like "Oh, yeah I'll just hook it up to my diagnostics"
and they come back with "Oh, don't worry - I've got a Snap-On scanner"
yeah.. ok chief :)
My pleasure :)
There's also a gel version which is for items you can't put in a bucket. I've used it in the past with good results although I was using it on a panel rather than super rusty axle parts. You do it as many times as needed so I think it'll take longer than the liquid version in a bucket because you can't just shake the bucket when you walk past it and get fresh solvent on the rusty bits. It's a bit different in use - you paint it on the rusty parts and then cover them in clingfilm to stop it drying out too quickly although I suspect that depends on the ambient temps. There wasn't much risk of anything drying out these past couple of days!
Whichever way you go, get as much rust off as you can before using a convertor and it'll have a better chance of getting all the way down to good metal and stopping further corrosion. As former Fiat owner, I still hate rust more than any other vehicle problem!
I love the silent waft, with a bit of overpressure to remind you that there's a big engine. But hey, each to their own :)
heh, it took me so long to find the pictures you've already replied.
It's non toxic so you can use it without any stress. I did wear gloves because it doesn't smell great but I did get some on my hands without any issue. Soap and water.. not exactly unusual these days!
Before:
Not perfect but good enough for something I don't plan on seeing for another couple of years! I mixed 6l of water with 300g of DeoxC which is the minimum recommended strength. I left it in for two days (which made the less corroded bits go from shiny to dull again) and only bothered to scrub them a couple of times. You're meant to get in there with a brillo pad or similar every hour or so and not leave them overnight but my lazy arse gene kicked in.
After:
Then you just rinse them off with plain water. If it's something like a body panel and you're worried about flash corrosion you could use something like de-greaser and go straight to a zinc primer or Hydrate80. Not relevent in our cases of course.
IME Bilt Hamber are the absolute dogs bits.
You might count this as overkill, but if you're going to degrease and wirebrush your steering knuckles you could try some of this afterwards:
https://www.bilthamber.com/deox-c
I used it on the stub axles on my jeep last week and it made a big difference. I was fitting new ABS rings and didn't want rust to mess with the interference fit. It only takes a day if you give the bits a scrub with something abrasive now and then.
Video!!! :)
I much prefer that look to the 4 pipe aftermarket ones.