Grrr, now the misfire has migrated to the other side :/ 8 and 2
I'll replace both coilpacks and go again - Hope that fixes it.

Thanks Brian, that's good info - good enough for me to take it to the local indy :)
They're fine with me bringing my own parts so I'll stump up for an hour or two of labour. I'll print out the wiring chart for them too, it seems only fair.

I had a wiggle of the wires to make sure it wasn't just a loose connection and there's possibly enough room to undo the screws holding the coils to the bracket, but you'd need a stubby screwdriver or a screwdriver on a ratchet handle. I think they're flat screws too, not cross-head, just to make it that tiny bit more annoying.

Ack, initial search reveals Britpart for ~£14 or.. not much else. Does anyone know of any decent coils out there?

Ahh original LR https://tinyurl.com/y9rropuz for... quite a bit more. £65/£78 depending on VAT.
Bollocks to Britpart, it's payday on Friday.

Should I do both?

RightO, thanks Richard!
I'm guessing there will be some really convenient bolts to find... the wires on their own were "interesting" for my shovel hands.

The Duchess has been off the line for a week or so because she decided that 6 cylinders are quite enough from cold. They do come back in when the engine is warmed up but it's a very nasty sounding idle/drive with 6!
Seeing as she has had new plugs and wires a couple of months back* and 4,7 are on the bottom half of the same coil - I'm wondering if this could be a coil pack issue. However, it seems a bit weird that only two of the four are missing. Or is that normal when a THOR coil pack starts to fail? Are they really two twin coils in a single box?
Or maybe it's something else entirely?

The codes are as you'd expect - catalyst damaging misfire 4, same for 7, then the multiple cylinder misfire error (logical) and sometimes adaptation out of range if I've been driving it on 6 for too long.

*which cleaned up a misfire on #2

Welcome Symes - you seem to have the same sickness as the rest of us so no need for quarantine. Dive in!!

There's a lot of thought going into this, so I'll just make two points.

1. It's hard to forgive corrosion on a P38 as there are plenty around with good bodywork
2. As you're already set up for EV, don't sell the P38 before the much rumoured (trailed?) scrappage scheme comes into effect or you might be losing £3k or £6k depending on how you look at it.

Even I have a spare pump ready to rebuild.... watching with interest!

I'm very happy with the EBC dimpled disks and greenstuff (9000 IIRC, for heavy SUVs) pads.
But overall the brakes should be good when in good nick.

Now you've made me look at my brand new (warranty replacement) back boxes and yes, one is an inch higher than the other. I didn't care before :(

It certainly happened to me!
I took it back, my Hankook had already arrived.

Interesting, many of us have been to Halfords and been given a battery that doesn't fit. Maybe they've finally updated their database. Either way, the Hankook is the Daddy!

Well, you've got the right colours :)
Welcome to the forum!
(and the madness)

That would be nice :)
Let's see how the next few hundred miles work out.

It's also 3 points per tyre here, where 12 points is a driving ban :O

I've had them swapped front to rear and had the tracking done. I'll see how they ex-rears wear over the next few hundred miles and get a new set.

I'm a bit sad they don't make that pattern anywmore as they're a nice compromise for wear, all season performance, offroading and price - but I guess things move on. I don't really want to put an aggressive looking tyre on a P38.

Front Left, apart from being underinflated, was also much more worn on the outside shoulder, whereas the Front right was worn on the inside shoulder - and the difference between the shoulder and the centre of the tread is over 4mm depth so it's quite a severe gradient. That's on the correctly inflated tyre :(

sadly our local MOT tester has already indicated his displeasure...

The point about an oval track is probably valid. I've had a lot of components changed at the front including the track bar and the wheel has always been a bit offset to the right when driving straight.

The front left is also prone to leaking down over a week or two so has been run pretty low on occasions.

I'll get the tracking done and swap the tyres. If the ex-rears wear evenly on the front after tracking I'll see whether we need new tyres come MOT time. If not, I'll treat this as a test period to get the geometry sorted.

Thanks Fellas

Annoyingly those ATs are NLA so if I buy any tyres I'm looking at a full set.

Well they're not looking great at the front :(

Compared to the Rears which are nice and uniform.

BECM on a Rasberry Pi would be overpowered :)
Of course, if you could put it into a handy quick release holder, you could walk off with your car's entire brains in your pocket. Start that, you thieving pikeys!! :)

The last time I read up on it, Megasquirt could be used with dual maps so you can use the petrol map for petrol and a spicier map with more boost/timing when on LPG.