On the P38 you could well be overtightening them, the correct setting is only 80lb/ft
Well, the Jeep axle nuts are only 170 lb ft so I'm well in range :) 300 sounds pretty fierce!
Also, recommend oil weights have tended to drop over the years as manufacturers have chased fractions of an MPG to raise their fleet averages. The same thing with "lifetime fill" auto-boxes which mean that the manufacturer can shave off a few litres of oil usage over the projected lifetime of the vehicle.
I'm with Dave. Copaslip, Plusgas and a wire brush (or more plusgas and a good cloth) make things much much easier. My half-inch breaker bar is definitely the go to weapon!
E30 BMWs have a tiny (4mm?) allen headed bolt instead of the posi. It was only there to hold the disk in place while you put the wheel on, but without Copper Grease they were complete bastards. With the magic grease... no problem!
All this reminds me, Marty - I left my 17 and 19mm deep sockets behind after we did your brakes that time. Any chance you could keep them to one side if you spot them? They're Halfords Professional range if that helps. Probably far far too late now, I admit.
Well, I got carried away and two Halfords Advanced slipped into the basket. The model 60 and 300 which should cover me from 12-300nm (10-250lb ft) Tools are an investment! (as I keep having to say)
Also, I don't think I want to half-ass the axle nut and the hub bolts on the front of my jeep! Bad things (tm) would probably happen.
Well I've got a decent 1/2" breaker bar which definitely HAS been handy :)
I know I'm risking the old adage of buying cheap but.. this looks like it'll do me for a while at least.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-DRIVE-HIGH-RANGE-TORQUE-WRENCH-50-250FT-LB-70-350NM-RATCHET-IN-CASE-SS031/283543800938
What do you reckon? Garbage or worth a pop? I'm not in the market for a Snap On, sadly!
Or.. for double the money I could nip down to Halfords and get one of these with a lifetime warranty: https://tinyurl.com/y9c7mo6w
hmm. I'm not feeling very decisive today!
Folks, I'm looking at buying a torque wrench. My current need is for a half inch drive type largish one (170lb ft min) and I'm not looking to break the bank. So, my question is - are there many reverse thread bolts on the P38? The one-way wrenches are cheaper, but how much use will I get out of the extra function?
As for rustproofing, I've had excellent results with the Bilt Hamber range. Easy to use, well priced and all the way from Essex 😀
They have everything from rust converters through high zinc primer to two pack epoxy mastic for areas that are likely to get gravel blasted.
I haven't tried them all but what I have tried is excellent. Their car shampoo is amazing!
Yes, LPG is massively cleaner, especially for particulates. I just wish we could start on it and ignore the petrol side altogether. The start up is the worst phase for emissions and sooting up the engine due to the cold start enrichment that petrol needs, but LPG can avoid because it is naturally a vapour.
Also, the cats are cold but that's not a huge deal for LPG.
Richard, that's just an advantage of making long journeys. Most of the oil fouling occurs at startup so your oil would still be in better shape if you ran on petrol for 200 miles every trip.
Gilbertd wrote:
Looks about right, 1500 is nothing, if running on LPG, it'll still look like that in 10,000 miles time. But why are you having to top it up after 1500 miles?
It will if you're running a mixer. On multipoint, you start on petrol and oil gets all gunky. It annoys me that I'm missing out on that advantage for LPG.
Roman - I'm not sure about the key thing. I just release it when I hear it fire - maybe I'll hold it longer next time and hope to avoid the horrible "too much starter" noise.
Mad-as I've been reading your thread closely but I'm hoping my MAF is OK as it's a new Bosch unit I fitted in 2017. I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world as they're still available for the Thor but I would be disappointed in the longevity of a £100 part if it has died :/
Having said this - it started perfectly for SWMBO this morning.
yeah, I think it's a red herring too.
Hmm. It had a new Bosch MAF in my ownership so, I'll get the fuel pressure gauge out tomorrow and see what it's at before a cold start. Clearly it's OK for the Running -> LPG phase, and it seems to be OK for the prime -> crank phase or it wouldn't fire up for that 1 second window before it dies. I wonder if it's possible for the fuel pump to cut during cranking?
Ooh, good call. Sadly not this time though. I've just been out and the coolant temp was showing 19.5 degrees which seems pretty likely. Air temp was showing 21.5.
She started 3rd time on the key, having failed to start this morning. After running for 5 minutes, she restarted instantly.
This morning, instead of waiting 20 minutes I took the Jeep. I'm sure that had I got her running this morning she'd have started fine this evening.
There was a code this time. Upstream O2 invalid, occurred once. I haven't checked the codes since the coils were changed a couple of weeks ago so I'll see if it comes back.
I've tried doing the "poor man's prime" by switching on, off, back on before starting (with a few seconds pause in the middle). This didn't work. The maddening thing is it seems to go from Start -> No Fuel -> Stall to Flooded in two/three cranks. If you leave it 20-30 minutes after it fails to start it'll start up first time on the button.
I did try to watch the fuel pump state in the Nanocom under Motronic but it just showed OFF (or not running, or whatever it is) all through a perfect start sequence, which seemed a bit odd. I guess it doesn't refresh in real time.
Mow the lawn - really fast :)
I'm only half kidding.. we have a (smaller) John Deere at work to pull the 9m gang mover. It's amazing how much they can cut in a morning!
Folks,
I thought The Duchess had forgiven me for failing to polish her every week but it appears this isn't so. Sometimes at the first start of the day she'll start straight up and stall out immediately. If I crank again there's a 50% chance she'll start and run fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I stop/start.
If she doesn't start on the second hit, she'll crank for ever but never start.
Seeing as she has already had Plugs, HT Leads and Coils to fix the misfire (100% sorted btw) I'm guessing this is likely to be fuel. I think I've found the fuel test valve, and I have a fuel pressure test gauge thingy. I'm reading 50PSI as the correct fuel pressure for these beasts - but is there a spec for leakdown time?
Cheers,
Morat
I've never heard of /used Jitsi but I do have teams, zoom, and skype available (not that Skype is suitable for multivideo)
It's a two-year warranty.
I'd buy Arnott III if they were proven reliable. I like the theory of being stiffer when shorter and the extra travel would be fun (although nowhere near essential as I don't think I've ever reached the limit of the Dunlops).
However, the Dunlops are a very persuasive price!
Does anyone still not have Zoom?