Bob changed mine and he's 75!
hahaha, yeah. Or if you polish it so much the door outstation gets flooded ;)
All sorted and back together.
Thanks for the help everyone! Another win for the forum :)
mymysteri wrote:
Ba-ha. If I were closer to any of you, I would already be knocking on your door to get this resolved. As it is, I am still trying to find someone with a nanocom near Paris - that might be able to make a housecall. The mechanic that had it in the fall when Marty fixed the BECM figured anyone that had something to fix that was a "computer nerd" (not sure of the exact term since it was said in French). I would have thought he would have a nanocom being that Land Rover directed us to him as a certified LR mechanic. Welcome to France.
A certified LR mechanic without the correct tools (Testbook)
Well, I don't work for BlackBox but I think you should buy a Nanocom and get your problem fixed asap. Firstly because it's worth the money to get your car running and secondly because every time you ask someone to run diagnostics they're going to to charge you £50 and only use a useless Snap-On generic ODBII decoder which won't tell you anything useful. You may as well get Torque for your phone if you're using plain ODBII and save the hassle of calling up the garage.
In the bigger picture of P38 ownership, the price of a Nanocom is just the ante.
Which is competitive if you don't have a Nanocom :)
Well, I quickly came to the conclusion that it was money well spent. The moment those door pins clunked up was worth £300.
Where in France? I'll be out in August :)
I assume you've tried the EKA dance using the door lock and that has failed? Are you getting messages on the dash saying "Engine Immobilised" when you try to start it?
I was in the same position due to faulty microswitches in the door lock and I bought a Nanocom EVO to enter the EKA directly into the Body Electronics Control Module (using the diagnostics plug under the passenger dash).
You can't just disconnect the alarm. Well, you can disconnect the sounder but the engine still won't start.
Best to post up exactly what happens and in what order so that the real experts can diagnose this remotely.
btw. Congratulations! :)
Jeez, I bet that roofrack makes some noise! How is it fixed to the roof?
And yeah - a karcher should have a lot of that paint off. Then I guess it's just a voyage of discovery to see what the original paint was like before the crap went on. Maybe the PO just wanted to look "Bad Ass" or maybe there was rust. I'd reckon there's some decent paint under there somewhere, even if it doesn't quite go all the way to the edges if you see what I mean.
HAHAHA :)
Well, either way - thanks to you both for helping me out. Extra burgers for you both!
So.. we just need to set a date for summer camp?
Welcome, it sounds like you're in the right place :)
FWIW, these things are never really finished - or so it seems. Just keep bashing away at The List!
Well yes of course. (Checks eBay purchase history) yeah, I knew that. Ahem 😀
Chris, that's kind but I've already ordered one. It was only £8 - hopefully it's the right one!
That's a kind offer! Although I'm not sure how deep it goes or how much you can fill without the filler cracking so maybe just a light sand followed by dyeing would be realistic. Anyway, here's the photo.
The door card was cut behind the handle which gave Bob enough space to get to the lock pigtails so it should be OK. Sadly the seat took a hit from the hot wire :( Nevermind, having a working door will make it all worthwhile!
OPEN SESAME!!!!
Access was gained by cutting the door card behind the handle and using Marty's instant recall of the wiring loom to trip the locks. Marty, Bob says you're a genius :)
So, we think we have the problem... but tests to follow:
Yeah, that's shitty luck :(
Of course, it's also your chance to upgrade!
thank you!
so, for a thicky, do you put 12V on Orange/Black and 0V on Pink Black to make it unlock, or lock? Or does it just lock/unlock depending on current state?
We've got access to the lock loom that goes into the lock.
Could anyone tell us which wire takes power so we can try putting voltage on it to fire the lock?
Please? :)
cheers
Morat