HAHAHA :)
Well, either way - thanks to you both for helping me out. Extra burgers for you both!
So.. we just need to set a date for summer camp?
Welcome, it sounds like you're in the right place :)
FWIW, these things are never really finished - or so it seems. Just keep bashing away at The List!
Well yes of course. (Checks eBay purchase history) yeah, I knew that. Ahem 😀
Chris, that's kind but I've already ordered one. It was only £8 - hopefully it's the right one!
That's a kind offer! Although I'm not sure how deep it goes or how much you can fill without the filler cracking so maybe just a light sand followed by dyeing would be realistic. Anyway, here's the photo.
The door card was cut behind the handle which gave Bob enough space to get to the lock pigtails so it should be OK. Sadly the seat took a hit from the hot wire :( Nevermind, having a working door will make it all worthwhile!
OPEN SESAME!!!!
Access was gained by cutting the door card behind the handle and using Marty's instant recall of the wiring loom to trip the locks. Marty, Bob says you're a genius :)
So, we think we have the problem... but tests to follow:
Yeah, that's shitty luck :(
Of course, it's also your chance to upgrade!
thank you!
so, for a thicky, do you put 12V on Orange/Black and 0V on Pink Black to make it unlock, or lock? Or does it just lock/unlock depending on current state?
We've got access to the lock loom that goes into the lock.
Could anyone tell us which wire takes power so we can try putting voltage on it to fire the lock?
Please? :)
cheers
Morat
I'm all for IT and geekery but computerised doors? I think Rover engineers were refugees from the Concorde program :)
OK, ta. I've had a fiddle but haven't taken the door latch surround off yet.
Once last piece of information, if you try to superlock from the fob you get a "failed lock" type squeak from the alarm and the locks trigger again. Normal locking works fine.
I'm busy tomorrow night but I'll see if I can squeeze some more time in.
Cheers!
Thanks for looking, Marty. I'll have a go in daylight!
It does seem a bit of a coincidence that the entire door loom has failed at the same time as the door latch, I wonder if the lock motors have burnt out something upstream?
Looking at the instructions here: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/doors/doorlocks.html
it seems I'm in the same boat, except I can't open the window either. Double buggered :(
Am I going to have to sacrifice a door card and just rip into the door?
The only thing that seems different to the super-locked situation is that the door pin is stuck in the up position and won't go down if you push it or use the fob.
EBC green are really excellent. The matching dimpled discs were expensive but together they make a great set and the pedal on my p38 is just perfect.
I haven't tried mintex on a p38 but they're usually good too.
Marty you are awesome. I'll look at this asap but for today I am cooked after going upnst stupid o'clock for a bike ride!
https://www.strava.com/activities/925047701/shareable_images/map_based?hl=en-US&v=1491145493
uh oh :(
The handle on the inside is floppy, the outside one moves normally I think (it's stiff, but always has been). The door pin is up and won't move down.
So, this is what you get for ignoring Marty's advice on Superlocking Motors being more trouble than they are worth!!
I'm wracking my brain to think when the symptoms first appeared and if it was when we had some really heavy rain.. but I guess that might not even be relevant.
They're nice to drive but yes - not exactly rapid.
You're going to need to start tracing the air lines and look for leaks - starting at the compressor. You might find it with a wet finger, you might need to use soapy water/bubbles. There are lots of possible leaks where the air lines go into the valve block. I found mine underneath the air dryer which is the next port of call after the block. After that you'll probably need to remove the relay and see which corner drops to narrow things down, but I'm no expert I'm afraid.
Hmm, would now be a good time to mention that the door pin is up but the door won't open? :(
A couple of days ago, the dash told me the front passenger window wasn't set. I ignored it then tried to set it. It wouldn't move. Hmm. No biggie, will get round to it.
Then I noticed that the passenger wing mirror didn't dip when reverse gear was selected and.. oh, it doesn't move at all. Then I realised that the door won't unlock.
So, all the electrics in that door are dead. What should I try first, oh gurus? I haven't done anything silly, like fill the door with water or fix something that wasn't broken or anything like that.