Given the fact that the last time you were navigating on point using yours and the convoy went round in a large circle Morat, I would say that you need modern kit :)
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clamp-power-steering-hose-anr1359-p-26763.html
or "borrow them from a breakers next time you're passing!
Is there a valve block O ring kit in your expected box of shiny parts Dave?
One end down could be just two equally tired bags, but could also be leaks on the NRVs in the valve block, or perhaps, but less likely, a sensor.
Pulling the EAS timer relay overnight will eliminate electronics/ sensor driven stuff.
What about injector longevity Lpgc?
My matrix one's give an almost inaudible rustle after 160 000 miles. The "conventional" ones that I've heard, rattle like castanets after 50 000 miles.
All looks eminently fixable- seat leather is an easy refurb, and door could be blown over on just that panel (can't see if it's just a scrape or dented though).
The wheels- if you swap them make sure you swap the spigot rings as well, and make sure you stock up on Fixadent. They may look pretty but they won't ride as well as the standard wheel/ tyre combination. Chris might have a view on that as I think he has 22" Kahn's or something on his.
You won't know for sure about prop UJs until you have it off the car. Can't easily detect free play if the joints are loaded in any way.
I've never taken a prop off without rotating to get at bolts, but it might be possible. Someone on here's bound to have done it!
To rotate prop (safely) to get at bolts, you'll need either:
Car in neutral, handbrake off, two wheels on same side off ground. Wheels on ground chocked, axle on stands, chassis on stands. Tailgate open or EAS timer removed. Level firm ground
or, I think you'll get away with 1 wheel off ground, transfer neutral, gearbox neutral. Handbrake on. All wheels chocked. Lifted axle on stands, chassis on stands. Tailgate open or EAS timer removed.
Neither sound safe on a slope.
To test diff (prop off)- one first, then both front wheels off ground. Safety precautions as above.
They certainly did on my Zavoli system (with the magic Matrix injectors)
£2643.75 in January 2006, 168,000 miles ago
dhallworth wrote:
Has anyone else had any problems resealing the steering pipes to the steering box?
No- mine went back fine. Needed a wobble bar or two on the torque wrench.
You are fitting the 14mm Dowtys to the LP and the 16mm Dowtys to the high pressure lines?
gordonjcp wrote:
Can confirm, I put Boges from Island on mine and they were great. They did take a bit of settling in though.
I found that with mine.
When I fitted the fronts, I followed the proper priming process and exercised them full range 6 or 7 times then kept vertical before fitting.
When I fitted the rears, I just put them on out of the box
Result- back end alternately flopped around and pumped up until I'd put a fair few miles on it.
All lovely now though!
Island definitely do the full set of Boges. Recently put a set from them on mine.
Front STC3672
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/shock-absorberboge-stc3672b-p-32432.html
Rear STC3671
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/shock-absorberboge-stc3671b-p-32430.html
Edit- just to clarify that the above I've linked are Boges supplied by Island sourced from Eurospares. (B suffix). Mine were G suffix, which Island aren't listing at the moment for rears
I have noticed that I get less tyre noise now I've set my tracking to 0 toe in/ out (ie straight) on both cars. Less tread block deformation perhaps?
Gilbertd wrote:
Ascot has Grabbers on it and while they seem to grip well are bloody noisy.
I've noticed with the ATs that the more they wear past about 6mm, the more road noise you get. Haven't worn the AT2s down below 8mm yet.
Can't say that I find either particularly noisy though (for an M&S tread)
Long time no see Smiler!
You do know the standard tyre size for the 8.0J x 18 is 255/55 don't you?
General Grabber AT or AT2 are great all-round tyres. Easier to find AT3 new these days. They're supposed to sit between the AT and AT2 in terms of tread aggresiveness.
Looks like a find David.
Marty on here does the HEVAC pixel kits, but I think he's away until New Year.
Gilbertd wrote:
But that one is green?
Workshop PC monitor is knackered :) Could be any colour, including pink!
Bump steer can be down to worn panhard rod bushes/ radius arm bushes, track rod ends, steering box adjustment- almost any front suspension joint really.
Just a thought- does it have standard original P38 wheels (16" or 18")? non- original wheels fitted without spigot rings can cause problems, but usually of the shimmy rather than bump steer variety.
Gilbertd wrote:
Viscous couplings don't usually just fail though, they need some abuse to kill them. They also cause the car to hop around when manoeuvring on full lock at low speeds as the front wheels are scrabbling for grip. So even someone not used to a P38 would know something isn't right.
A little wager? Bottle of warm ale or something?
Diff failed, now possibly prop, together with:
"...when going along it pulls to either side like its stuck in the tram tracks on the roads the trucks leave in the road..."
Viscous coupling failed locked. Knocks out diffs, prop UJs etc
Will also give transmission wind-up leading to tramlining etc.
This blue one David?
Now down to £6995
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-P38-Vogue-SE-Very-Low-Mileage-59k-FSH/352222677323?
Not Simon Farmer's £15k Alveston one, currently up for sale, was it David?!
Nice to see another VSE about to get some love. Good luck with it.