This thread is spookily like my lpg running issue, which has brought me to the brink of armageddon via a new vapouriser and new fuel feed line. Hopefully the solution will be simpler for you Aragorn!
That's really kind Gilbertd. Cash flow and domestic resistance are working against it at the moment :)
Well, it's not actually on eBay!
Definitely a "looks too good to be true car" at that price, even though AFAIK they never made a Vogue SE Autobiography.
£300 ish to be trucked down here
Hmmmmm
Now this one actually did get my juices flowing....
Yes, but apart from that, all's good with the fleet :)
You did check that Nissens part number was correct for GEMS didn't you? It looked like the one I remember, but that was a couple of years ago.
Or the hole in the rad has just opened up a bit and lost a bit more coolant. Might not have cooked the engine!
Going to have to put a new rad in it anyway, so may as well get one ordered now
Now your chance to stick that nice aluminium rad in that you've always secretly wanted!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55MM-ALUMINIUM-ALLOY-SPORT-RADIATOR-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-P38-4-0-4-6-V8-94-99/120848748462?
I think this is the right Nissens one for the GEMS, but better check
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TO-CLEAR-NEW-NISSENS-RADIATOR-64302/352066509199?
It's OK everyone. Like I said, I'd do it remotely from far away...
Looks like they're going to have to extend the Tamar Bridge significantly now though
No time today. Repairing stainless exhaust (correctly- couldn't live with the fix I'd already done) on blue one took all my available "my car" time.
Still time to compose my obituary before I tackle the gas tank!
I was touched by her faith in my ability to be able to restore a shed like that, but wouldn't touch that with someone else's bargepole.
Just looking at the interior pics I could smell/ taste the rot. Still, the paint and underseal are doing a passable job of holding the rust in place, but, slam the door and you're left with 4 wheels and a ple of dust.
Pass!
Having got rid of the other half's campervan, she's pining for a suitable replacement.
She flagged this up to me, saying- "You could do that. It is a Range Rover"!
Disable passive immobilisation and you won't have to enter the EKA every time
As for fob not synching, does the fob light flash when you press the buttons? As you can enter the EKA then door latch switches are probably OK so fob and receiver are the place to start.
Have you cut the aerial on the receiver (blue wire) as this limits the range of the fob. Potentially when you try to sync through door, if fob isn't talking to receiver it'll never work.
As you've had the fob to bits, that is the place to start looking. maybe you didn't get the battery contacts back in correctly?
Overalls upgraded. Should be good to go now.
Concern me? No, it bloody terrifies me!
Pressure vessels generally give me the heebie jeebies. I must be the only person in the UK who actually takes the inspection panel off of the tank on my workshop compressor twice a year to check the tank!
Fill a pressure vessel with an explosive liquid and I'd rather watch someone else do it, by video link, from another county!
Until I fully understand exactly how stuff like this works, my fear of the unknown will continue.
Ah well, if the Pros do it like that....
:)
Lpgc wrote:
Lol 40mm, brains not even working out 270-220 tonight it seems ;-)
That's nothing to me trying to do the maths to work out exactly how much liquid is now ullage- be easy if tank was cylindrical :)
Thanks Lpgc and Gilbertd for your thoughts and input.
In addition to having (most likely) the wrong valve, it's also installed right at the front of the tank!
In addition to having to drain out the undrainable and fit the correct valve, it now looks like I'm going to have to remount the tank so the valve's at the rear. Good thing that I was intending to replace the main feed line really!
Another 5 minute job that's expanded exponentially.
Gilbertd wrote:
That's why it won't fill fully then, it's set for a 220mm tank not a 270mm one.
Looking at the design of the float, wouldn't it fill fully, but never empty to the bottom of the tank?
ie- there's half a tank of ullage you're hauling around pointlessly?
Following on from those thoughts, if wrong sensor fitted, wouldn't shut-off (float at top) be the same, gauge would show empty (float at bottom of its range but not bottom of tank) but you could continue to draw the remaining liquid below that level.
Or is it that when float at bottom it shuts off the gas out valve?
I guess the pickup pipe will also only go part way to bottom of tank too, so it'd start sucking gas, not liquid, when below bottom of pickup pipe?
If I follow on with that logic, if there are no surge baffles in the tank, that would cause the ECU to panic and shut off gas on hard acceleration.
I'm hammering jigsaw pieces together here, rather than putting them together based on actual detail understanding!
So, the internal float is linked directly to shut off fluid input? Max capacity (the 80% thing) is determined by float height, not tank pressure?
.
Float also drives level indicator I assume?
I'll have a look at the stamp tomorrow. Cold and damp outside and I'm toasty indoors.
EDIT- just looked at the full size pic. Looks like 220 to me, but still fuzzy
