Happy Birthday pub, and Happy New Year everybody :)
Might be worth disconnecting the audio side from the head, powering it up, and setting max volume, just to see
Somewhere in my foggy memory I recall something about having to set the DSP head unit to max volume before powering it down or connecting it to another amp.
Could be wrong, or it might be something else.
Tinleys seem to hold everything you need:
liquid and vapour filters, rebuild kits
http://tinleytech.co.uk/?s=tartarini&submit=Search&post_type=product
Check for aged hoses while you're at it. They do eventually get crunchy.
I am!
She's a great actress though. Kept a poker face and asked
"What the %^"*& is this?"
I know she was happy inside though. I pointed her to the download location for RAVE so that she doesn't struggle fitting it.
and....
fenders go down the side of boats, rockers operate the valves....
the list is endless, but the good thing is we're bilingual and inclusive here
Seasons Greetings!
I agree with you on the "not recommend" for this kit Sloth.
There's something strange about the inconsistencies in manufacture. It looks good, spread out on the floor, but that's no good if the bloody thing doesn't fit the car.
I haven't had to do any cutting on mine (apart from the mounting rods) and the T section doesn't foul anything (although the transverse bit doesn't sit level) even with the suspension deflated. I've had all of the air out of the rear bags and it sitting on the bumps at the back this week while doing an experiment in fitting rear trailing arm bushes without removing the arms and the exhaust didn't hit anything.
I'll be cutting and welding mine in the new year as I think it's too close to the air bag- about 3". I have heat wrapped it though, and checked it after a thrash and idle cycle and there's not much radiated heat at that point.
I had one of these for a few years. Makes a much better alternative to a shed!
Blooming noisy in any kind of strong wind though. Joints on the frame creak a lot!
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cig1224-heavy-duty-instant-garage-24x1/
Yours must have been even more of a Friday afternoon one than mine!
I don't have any pics I'm afraid. Sounds like you've had the same issues that I mentioned in post #29, but worse. Getting mine to a point where it wouldn't hit wheel well, panhard rod, or burn the bag involved manipulation of all of the sliding and rotating joints to find a sweet (ish) spot and some bending of the mounting arms.
I'll be back up the workshop mid next week so will take some pics then- probably too late to be any help though.
If you have any kind of OCD though, you won't want to lie on your back underneath and look at it.
Apart from the centre box section, nothing actually sits parallel to any chassis members :)
If you have the tools- to eliminate the cam and chain from your enquiries, stick a degree disc on the crank pulley and a DTI on the valve end of the rocker arm and check the cam timings:
Valve Timing------------------------ Inlet-------------------------------- Exhaust
Up to 99MY
Opens-------------------------------- 14°BTDC--------------------------64°BBDC
Closes-------------------------------- 70°ABDC -------------------------20°ATDC
Valve lift
It's 9.94mm inlet and exhaust- this will be measured at the valve end of the rocker arm
A sloppy chain may slightly "retard" the cam timings but not affect the duration. It's more likely to introduce variability in the timings depending on engine speed.
A worn cam will reduce lift and reduce the duration (valve will open later and close earlier)
A bit of fettling was required. From underneath it still doesn't sit squarely, but it does fit and doesn't hit anything :)
Silencers do sit at a bit of an angle, but tailpipes are shaped to compensate so everything looks straight from the outside. I also assembled mine on the floor and thought WTF, must have got the bits together wrong...
Cut studs from a length of M10 studding?
Last minute BZP
https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-bright-zinc-plated-steel-threaded-rods-m10-x-300mm-5-pack/22257#_=p
This Loctite? Should do the trick Sloth.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/head-gasket-exhaust-repairs/loctite-5990-premium-silicone-copper-gasket-maker-sealant
I used this, just cos I had some on the shelf:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Visbella-Silicone-Engine-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B00XLO2R2Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513759275&sr=8-4&keywords=high+temperature+silicone
That looks very familiar! Shiny, shiny isn't it?
BTW I forgot to mention, I replaced the U clamps with decent ring type SS ones and used exhaust silicone on the sliding joints.
EBC Ultimax- squealy and dusty. EBC Green stuff- dusty and require a bit of warming up. (Both on my Golf VR6 by the way, so may not be a direct comparison with a P38!)
I find Mintex really good. Have them on both P38s now. Nice pedal feel, not got them to fade yet.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SFP500150-Land-Rover-Discovery-2-TD5-Range-Rover-P38-MINTEX-Front-Brake-Pads/291511390777?
Pinhole in the actual matrix tubing where it curves back on itself
New matrix arrived and pressure tested!
I'm thinking I'll have the dash back together today, but it'll take longer to dry the bloody carpet. I'd forgotten how much cleaning they took to get rid of the coolant.
dhallworth wrote:
I'm also hoping to have a look at removing the last few bits from my breaker over the holidays and get rid of that as well. Going to be a busy few days!
Racking my brains to work out if I need any bits for my Biarritz 95 HSE :)