I'll report back on the success (or otherwise) when I attempt it!
Need to get the new line installed and tested first so it won't be for a while.
Should do
Started fitting it today. It looks as shiny as the picture. Neat welds. Not tinfoil metal, but about half the weight of the genuine LR system that I took off (bloody hell- theyre heavy!).
Components all seem to fit together well. Flange joints match LR profiles nicely, hanger bars are in the right place and orientation and sliding joints, well, slide.
Only have system offered up so far. The only obvious bit of fettling required will be one of the hanger bars, which looks like it'll punch a hole in the petrol tank if I don't cut it back.
So far, so good. Tomorrow will tell.
Is your LPG connected to the vehicle lambda sensors then? Guess it must be or you wouldn't get readings!
You might see voltages like that on a GEMS, which has 0-5v lambda sensors, but not on a Thor which has 0-1v sensors.
Maybe your LPG software/ ECU hasn't been given the correct information in the setup (on mine you have to enter the lambda sensor operating voltage range)
I don't believe the lambda readings in the LPG actually do or contribute anything apart from information on the screen, so it's not a problem in itself.
To get the right lambda readings you need a reader that will read them from OBD2 and will actually tell you what the car's seeing
Time to sacrifice your favourite goat to the Range Rover gods. You've obviously done something to annoy them.
You can buy the long end on it's own but probably not worth it. An Allmakes PR2 complete one is good quality, reasonable price
https://www.lrdirect.com/TIQ000020-supplied-by-allmakes-branded-pr2allmakes.html
or the reassuringly expensive Lemforder assembly
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRACK-ROD-ASSY-OEM-RANGE-ROVER-P38A-TIQ000020-G-LEMFORDER/390529649193?
Martyuk wrote:
Don't say that... I'm hoping for £10K for my '98 with sub 84k miles on it when I'm finished with it...
Prices for goodun's are starting to climb a bit now, although diesels have had their day and values are still in freefall. I don't think a DHSE will every become collectable, except perhaps as a curiousity.
At the moment it looks like £10k plus is still the preserve of the "specials"- H&H, 30th Anniv, Westminster, VSE (!) etc in low mileage showroom, full history condition.
Yours could get there, but keeping the materials cost of whatever youre going to do to it down while adding value with your labour and skills is where you'll make your money on it, but you know all that stuff anyway :)
no10chris wrote:
Ps, anyone else seen the 16k p38 on eBay,, there be lucky,,
That one's the usual RPI bullsh!t. They take a run of the mill P38, drop in a new lump and Tornado chip it, oil change, new polybushes, SS exhaust, new bags, "almost new" tyres, new brakes.
I wonder if they ever actually sell any of these at the advertised price?
I'll sell them my VSE for £12k, then they can sell it on and make a nice profit on it without having to actually do anything :)
If I get it wrong there'll be a herd of burning cattle stampeding up the M4 anyway. The exercise should tenderise the meat nicely as well.
I think she prised it off with the key fob.
Not a scratch on bumper or tailpipe.
Gilbertd wrote:
Don't worry about the cows though, it's nothing to the amount of Methane they produce.
More worried about them running around burning really. Farmer would be most upset if I attempted an impromptu barbecue with his prime milkers.
The field is at the top of a hill, so no worries there. Only problem is the village is in a natural bowl at the foot of the hill, so need to make sure the wind's not blowing in that direction...
Same sort of thing with my blue one.
Handed over the keys to other half last week. Since then she's trashed the fob "don't know how that happened, must have been in my handbag"
and somehow managed to knock off one of the rear boxes *I thought it was a bit louder than it sounds outside"
Dumbass questions time. I wish there was a good tech book I could read on all aspects of LPG, then I wouldn't have to ask this basic stuff, but anyway.
I assume the thumbwheel pictured is a shut off valve pre outlet solenoid valve, and with this closed I could, if I wanted, remove solenoid valve without getting a faceful of LPG?
Why is there no manual shut off valve on the inlet side? Would I have to rely on the non-return valve that must be in there somewhere if I wanted to disconnect?
Now the really stupid question. If I needed to empty the tank to, say, remove the multivalve, how?!
My gung ho approach might be to take tank into middle of cow field (minus cows!). Attach very long cable to solenoid. Put 12v through solenoid. Vent contents to air, hoping that breeze didn't drop.
To me that's fraught with illegality, risk of losing self and village in a fireball, nothing but bad things.
So how do the professionals do it?
Reason I ask is because I only ever seem to get 35 litres in before pump cuts off, and only 35 litres out before system shouts enough and switches back to petrol, so likely something is wrong with multivalve. For £40 ish for a new one that would seem like the way to go.
If running OK on gas, then that kindof indicates ignition side is OK. Generally a weak ignition will be worse on gas cos it needs those healthy volts even more than petrol.
I'm thinking that there's some coil testing data in ECU SID, but I don't have it for GEMS on this PC.
Maybe trims have drifted a long way off? I'd do an adaptive reset if it were me, but that could make things worse of course
I'm just about to send another fob Duncans way, but I'll get in touch first to see that he's responding to emails!
Other half has enjoyed her first week of sole use of the '95 so much she's already smashed one fob and ripped off one back box. I've got a bad feeling about letting her use it as her daily driver now.
Fittings checked, appropriate bits ordered!
It's more difficult, as the "loads of heat" solution can't be used because of the construction of the rear arms I suppose.
If Gilbertd's vice and Brians drilling don't work- back to the garage at the end of the road with the press that did your front bushes. A decent press would get it out or, worst case a £28 solution...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-NEAR-SIDE-PASSENGER-REAR-TRAILING-ARM/182672454544?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-OFF-SIDE-DRIVERS-REAR-TRAILING-ARM/182672451068?
You'd have it/ them by Wednesday.
Solenoid inlet is definitely M10- that's one bit I am sure of :)
Thanks Lpgc- I'll have a look at the fitting on the outlet valve tomorrow to see what sort I have.
As I'm fitting a new exhaust system at the same time as the LPG line, I'll be able to avoid potential hotspots with some creative routing (hopefully)
Thanks Gilbertd- I'll read that over my breakfast this morning
Currently wondering what the minimum bend radius is on polypipe...
Fitted the new reducer today and decided I can no longer live with the bodge job that is the 6mm copper main feed line from tank solenoid valve to reducer solenoid valve.
The cable ties to the chassis in parts, the routing in exposed areas and the ever dwindling length of the tail in the engine compartment are just some of the reasons.
As I'm going to be underneath fitting the new exhaust it seems like a fine time to get on with it.
Anyway- my questions:
After leafing through Tinley's catalogue, I've decided to go with 6mm Faro polypipe (unless 8mm would be better for a 4.6 V8 and long pipe run). Will a single run of pipe with an M10 connector direct to the outlet solenoid valve (tank end) to an M10 connector to the inlet solenoid valve (reducer end) be an acceptable standard? I'm thinking that it sounds too easy and there's probably a rule that says I have to go to solid copper pipe first at both ends or something even stranger that I haven't considered.
So- these fittings
One at each end- can it be that simple?
Pipe to be secured by P clips- that's easy, but do I secure to the chassis rails (the vertical faces!) or to the floor pan?
Chassis rails sounds best to me, although given the thickness of the metal I'll have to budget for a handful of drill bits, but where should it be fixed?
Finally (and probably my daftest question), is there a requirement to electrically bond the 2 ends of the pipe together (ie run a length of cable between them). There is on domestic plumbing where polypipe is used in conjunction with copper, for earth continuity.
Thoughts, input and experiences most welcome!