Never checked that. As long as compressor fills the tank from empty with door open in 8 minutes, that's good enough for me.
Don't forget, you're a youngster Marty, whereas I'm geriatric :)
As I said at top, I've now gone to Admiral. They wanted proof of my 20 years plus no-claims- not easy to do as most places stop counting after 9 years, so I inundated them with 20 years worth of consecutive renewal notices, which shut them up. If that number was so important to them I wonder if they're just trying it on with you by stopping counting at 5?
£470 seems a lot. Obviously one of the few benefits of being old is cheap insurance then!
Edit- they didn't even ask for my LPG cert, and didn't load me for my stainless exhaust, both declared as modifications.
If I'd known you were after shocks as well, you could have had the Monroe Adventurers off of mine for a very reasonable price. I was looking at them today sitting in no-mans-land half way to the scrap pile thinking they were too good to dump and wondering if I could be bothered with the hassle of putting them on the bay.
Down side is that other half's (I always use her phone number and a throwaway email addy) just been phoned by another broker who said that her details have been passed by Mustard because they couldn't help!
My theory on the TPFT thing is that in their eyes only sub-prime people want a TP quote and, being poor, have more accidents.
Back in the day "Act Only" insurance was the one to have and it really was the cheapest
I did, Ta :)
Haven't put it on yet as I've yet to mop the paint and it'll be one less thing to work around
Very Hollywood, GeorgeB. Kind of what I remember from that lecture in the last century
Robbo1 wrote:
👍Don't think I have ever inspired anybody before lol.
You just depressed me! I've stopped looking under the bonnet since I saw yours- and that's on the VSE.
The blue one is still caked in the same filth in the engine bay from the lanes around Summer Camp last year
Thank for the ref Gilbertd- managed to get her fully comp for £545.08 on the crappy Daewoo- Hastings Direct.
Third party only quotes were on average £200 more than that. WTF?
Her renewal was with Admiral for £648.35 originally...
Ta Gilbertd. Off to try them now for my daughter as hers is up soon. Only 19 but has a couple of years NCB under her belt plus full licence.
Had my insurance renewal through for the 02 come through from Adrian Flux. As usual, they quoted an increase on last years of around £100- a premium of £270 ish fully comp.
Also as usual I phoned them up to argue the toss, as I have done every year for the past 8 years, expecting to be able to talk them down to £160 for the same policy, with the same company. Armed myself with a quick Meerkat search to see what the market was charging.
Very surprised when the Flux call-centre woman wasn't interested in doing the usual dance, even when I said I'd had quotes from Admiral, Diamond and Heritage (I think) from £169 to £ 175. Told me point blank that their quote was the best value on the market and they couldn't do any better. I asked whether that would apply to the 95 when renewal comes up next Feb ( same company, same cost) and was told it would.
So, telling her that I'd be terminating my relationship with Flux, off to Admiral on the phone.
Long story short- multi car policy for both cars, black one starting now for £145.60, blue one payable next Feb for £134.11. Same excesses, protected NCB etc.
Happy (ish) days!
I'm going to be brave and bold and carry on with the throttle body heater bypass on the Thor. My logic says that there isn't much of a venturi in the throttle body and just a large moving butterfly valve in there. Any icing will form a bridge across the reduced space at small throttle openings which may stop the butterfly closing properly though, so I'll see.
It's not the same as an old SU carb with a small venturi, butterfly valve and a vacuum operated main jet assembly all in the same area. Same was true on my old Cessna Aerobat and other carburetted piston engined light aircraft- they all had a carb heat control right next to the throttle and the drill was to put on carb heat whenever significantly reducing the throttle or risk carb icing and the engine stopping at an inconvenient time.
I'll report back if I encounter any problems
I seem to remember the mercury arc rectifier being the topic of a particulary inspiring lecture back in my days as a student at Kingston Polytechnic.
No rush Morat. My current valve block will last forever- well the one in the black one should. It was a genuine brand new one from LR two years ago when the car was moved back from coils to air.
The blue one, who knows, it's alright at the moment :)
There isn't any coolant inside the rocker covers, so if you've got coolant leaking from there something has gone terribly wrong! A bit of condensation sometimes but that's all.
What you do have is a metal pipe that is sealed with an O ring feeding the heater matrix from the inlet manifold on drivers side. That could give the appearance of coming from rocker cover. You also have the throttle body heater fitting on inlet front top, temp sensor same place. top hose out from engine to rad which is fitted to a metal pipe again with an O ring seal.
Once again you're going to have to be more scientific with your leak hunting. I run UV dye (Ring RLD-2) in both my cars cooling systems permanently, which is a bit over the top, but it's really handy for locating weeps.
Your coolant shouldn't be clear either- should be a nice pink, gentle blue or sometimes green. If it's clear, it's not coolant, it's water and that's a bad thing to run unadulterated in your system
Good day for plumbing and heating then!
Just as my screen was about to meet with an unfortunate accident, the heating element on the right hand side sprang into life when I hit the Prog button this afternoon. That hasn't worked since I've had the car.
Unfortuately the left hand element, which had worked, stopped working at the same moment.
Bloody electrics. Connectors and earths at screen end are all good, so it must be flaky at the fuse box end. Ah well.
Pleased the valve block worked for you- sorry about the collets but I did say the O rings might need looking at :)
I hadn't used/ tested that block, but it was shiny shiny so I was reasonably optimistic it'd work.
Well done!
How did you get rid of the mercury? Pour it in the castle duck pond? I bet they wouldn't take 6L of mercury down at the local tip!
:)
I'm afraid I don't have ginj and pinj for when the old reducer was fitted and working properly, 'cos it's never really worked properly for long enough since I bought the car a year ago. ECU died first and had to be replaced and since then the cars been on and off the road with various resto tasks.
It did run happily on that LPG setup for 160 000 miles though so I'm hoping that a like for like replacement will do the trick.
We'll see, when the new one (Zeta S) arrives next week. Next time I'm near the matrix injectors I'll see what size the nozzles are...
That's a shame Dave. I found Duncan at FobFix really good (and communicative) when he did mine back in January (new switches due to water ingress) and it's worked fine ever since
I don't have any additional contact details for him unfortunately
I was wrong- my Avo is a model 40. It's a 1942 model.
EDIT- sparked (!) up my interest in it, it was actually made in June '43. Now I've got it out, I'm going to treat it to some new batteries as only the 9v (4.5 x 2) high resistance side works and the 1.5v low resistance side is dead.
