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If dessicant looks contaminated, just stick it in the dishwasher...

:-) :-)

Thanks Chris- I did, by coincidence!
I even managed to book a collection for today.

Morat- enjoy playing with it. Don't forget to clean any cr@p out of your box/ filters/ change dessicant in dryer and purge tank before fitting.

Scratching head....?
If you're popping all those hoses on and off, you may as well just drop the thermostat in a pan of water with a handy cooking thermometer and see when it starts to open and when it's fully open.
Closed is when the large valve at the bottom hose is.... closed and valve to bypass (centre top) is open.
Open is when the large valve at bottom hose is open and valve to bypass (centre top) is closed

Thought you had a Thor?!
enter image description here
Flushing...
Heater core: feed from 22, out from 21
Block: in from top hose hole, out from water pump. Block off 21 and 22, pull off other random connectors and let water flow out
Rad:feed from 12, out from well the top hose hole really
Edit- pay special individual interest, as Gilbertd says to 16 and its little hole that goes into expansion tank

Hurry up!
If I don't get your address soon, it'll be too late to book a collection for tomorrow, then you won't have it to play with this weekend!

PM me your address again Morat. My old PMs were deleted a while ago and with it, your address :)

This is the one Morat
enter image description here
enter image description here
Let me know whether you want to go for it and I can arrange a courier collection. If It's collected tomorrow, you'll have it for the weekend.

Definitely non-ferrous?
I'm still thinking K Seal. No real brass in cooling systems any more. Rads are aluminium, Water pumps have ball bearings.

OK Morat, I've got a solution that might work for you. I've got a pretty pristine valve block assembly, which I was hoarding.
I could send it off to you as a loaner, if you pick up the courier tab for getting it to/ from you.
After changing your dessicant, cleaning out your box, filters etc and draining your tank (don't want any bronze bits finding their way into mine), you fit it and use it while you clean and reseal yours, then you send mine back.
Keeps you on the road.
What do you think?

K Seal or one of it's cousins would be my bet. Did I miss a picture somewhere BPSM?

Thanks for comprehensive info LPGC. I'll read through it this evening, digest and probably come back with more questions!

Ferryman wrote:

This damage can only occur when removing a stuck tyre from the rim, not when fitting it,
So the guy who did it is a criminal by fitting it again and should be brought to... whoever can punish him.


Hello Tony- long time no hear. How's it going?
According to my bills archive the tyres were originally fitted by Protyre in Bristol on... 21st September 2010, a whole 21000 miles ago.
No record of it having been taken off since (doesn't mean it hasn't, just that I don't have a bill for it), and hasn't since I've had the car
Don't think there's much point in me taking it up with Protyre, so the mystery fitter will have to get his just desserts meted out through a greater power at a time of that power's choosing!

Lol :)
I offered to build one for you in case you didn't feel confident to do it, not 'cos you're feeling lazy!
I don't know what condition any of my spare blocks are in 'cos they're spares that I've amassed over the years, not ones I've taken off my own cars (haven't had the need to do that yet), so won't be able to say what they need without stripping them down.
Whatever the source, you can almost guarantee these days that the valve tips and seats will be tired, and you can't get new ones.
I'll have a dig through the box tomorrow and see what I've got

You're right Clive, I should. The thought of potentially having to bin four expensive tyres with 8 or 9 mm of tread left, and the cost of replacing them does make me emotional, so the strapline now works.

Morat wrote:

I think I'll get hold of a second hand one and rebuild that before swapping. I can't really have the car off the road for long.


Go for it! It's not difficult, you just need to be clean and methodical.
I was actually suggesting I could build up one of my spares for you though :)

Perhaps one of us could rebuild a valve block for you Morat, if you don't feel up to doing it? I've got a few kicking around, waiting for a day when I've got nothing else to do.
I'd be happy to do one for the cost of the repair kit and the courier.
All you'd have to do is clean out the rest of the system- including your shiny nearly new dryer- and fit it
I'm not sure that I'd even want your old one in exchange. Getting those brass shavings out of every nook and cranny doesn't look like fun.

Two good points :)
I feel a bit queasy when I think back to the "I wonder what these cars do flat out" time on my local private test track

I thought the tale needed a moral at the end of it though, to go with the stupid Tyred & Emotional strapline

As the old blue one has become the other half's daily driver, I thought I'd better get the slow puncture in the front tyre repaired. It's had it since I bought the car and never really bothered me, I just gave it a blast of air every week or so at the workshop.
Dropped wheel off at local tyre wizard, expecting to have to boost their tea fund in exchange for having the bead area on the rim polished and was surprised when I went to collect to be told that they wouldn't fix it and in their opinion, it was bloody dangerous.
Found this damage to tyre around the bead wires and inside the seating area:
enter image description here.
They'd never seen anything quite like it before, neither have I.
Best guess would be that when the tyre was initially fitted, the oik that did it misused the tyre machine that pushed the tyre onto the rim and somehow ripped/ tore the rubber without breaking the bead wires. None of the missing rubber was inside the tyre and it would have no way of getting out.
Of course, the next problem was finding a single Grabber AT2 of the appropriate 16" size to replace it. No chance of that, could get a new AT3 for £130 (!) but I'm old fashioned and think tyres should match on axles, as well as being skint and not wanting to pay that sort of cash.
Managed to track down a good used on the bay for £48. I'll see how good and used it is when it turns up tomorrow.
Moral of the story- if it ain't broke, don't fix it...

Thanks Marty- I'll have a look through my box of "waiting for refurb or something" ones and see if I've got any Thomas's. Any distinguishing features?
It appears the Thomas 315 in its native form was a little under specified for the P38, even when new:
enter image description here

Summer Camp and Dyno Day Chris? That'd be different :)