First iteration for the early ones Smiler.
Start with the door closed and locked
You should get a flash from the sidelight warning light to show you're in EKA mode each time you enter a digit. If you screw up the digit entry, open the door then you won't get caught out by the 3 strikes timeout.
super4 wrote:
Some relief - it is now idling at about 1000 after a short drive around the hills. The normal idle was always about 600 -700 so I'm hoping it will 'adapt' more. At least I can drive to town and garages if necessary
and.... breathe..... :)
All of the adaptive stuff will adapt, over time as that's what it's meant to do. Doing an Adaptive Reset just speeds up the process as it sets everything to a base value.
Are you sure that the TPS is properly engaged with the shaft? If it's not it could be causing jamming.
I put it onto the shaft and push it against the throttle body with my fingers only It should go right home without much pressure at all. I then move the throttle arm with TPS still held in place by hand only to ensure everythings nicely mated. Only then do I put retaining screws in.
If you really want to be sure, take off TPS, pop off inlet manifold pipe, check "butterfly" fully closed, fit TPS as above, exercise it and repeat to check butterfly still fully closed
super4 wrote:
Are you reasonably certain it will reset over time and if not - there is an English guy on the coast who works out of a shed who has a sort of handheld diagnostic kit for my Range Rover but it is not a proper RR testbook. Do you think it is capable of doing a reset if necessary. Of course, any journey with car in current situation is not easy.
Without knowing what diagnostics kit he has, there's no way to tell. It's a bit like saying, I know a guy with a spanner, will it fit this nut?
Hawkeyes, Nano Evos and the like will, generic code readers won't
super4 wrote:
By the way - if I did the Zavoli autocal again - starts on petrol -and run at the constant 2800 rpm or so as directed , would it reset the main ECU during the procedure and therefore the idling too or is it completely ruled by the main ECU setting ?
Noooooooooooo
Don't mess with the LPG. Has no relation to Adaptives whatsoever
New TPS requires an Adaptive Reset. If it's just that, as you don't have the kit to do that, then it should adapt itself over time.
There is, of course the possibility that the Freelander TPS just isn't compatible with the GEMS, but as you've put the old TPS on and rev problem hasn't gone away it's likely down to Adaptives.
gordonjcp wrote:
I fitted Britpart ones and the boots seemed to be made of the same nice chunky rubber of days of yore. Just goes to show, eh?
There's a risk that the boots will outlast the joints though :)
I'll examine the hub ball joint boots carefully while I'm under there doing the suspension/ steering joints. Got an MOT on it in November so "while I'm down there..."
Typical- just after I order a bunch of Lemforder joints!
I still think they're the dogs dangly bits as far as quality and performance, but will give some feedback on the boots in a year or so
GeorgeB wrote:
Well, they sent me a pretty picture from a parts book asking me to point out which bit I wanted, although I'd already given them the part number. So I did and it's all gone quiet!>
Update, I take it all back! Just had a quote with 3-5 day delivery.
How does price compare with the £35 or so over here?
Fobfix did exactly what they promised for me (Recase, fix water damage, test). No complaints about price, workmanship or turnround time
How true!
I just "lurk" on there to keep an eye out for interesting parts and stuff. Its also good for tracking literacy levels and sitting back watching the fights that break out. More entertaining than a dull night on TV
It was VERY cheap initially Chris- originally offers around £1750. It was pointed out to her that she was ripping herself off and she moved the offers price up.
It's still cheap now, BUT no interior pictures. If its been trashed inside and the VSE sparkly bits are missing or the DSP/ Nav don't work that knocks the value back a bit.
And she didn't want to sell me the tailgate badge :)
Chances are you'll now get a visit from the Philipino equivalent of the RSPCA to rescue the dog that a crazy man has shut under his car bonnet...
Looking at the FB page, she's doing the selling purely through Facebook Messenger Chris.
Modern times eh?!
That'll be this one then:
On Facebook in one of the P38 Groups. There's a feeding frenzy going on for it :)
As I think you said you don't go over 20 mph in traffic I can't see a rearwards brake bias making much practical difference. It's not like it's reducing front pressure or anything, just increasing rear.
Won't be like an F1 car with failed regen braking that fry their tiny back brakes and come into the pit lane with brakes in flames.
Might make emergency stops on slippery road interesting with back trying to overtake front though. Give the ABS a workout.
gordonjcp wrote:
.., or more accurately marinading in Old Speckled Hen and curry.
Bet that attracted the wasps
Britpart ANR3323 isn't too spendy. Now you've got your very own Britpart warehouse over there why not just stick one on? Same faffing as fitting a tee to bypass and the worst it'll do is leak like the old one!
I'll let you know Clive as I'm just about to redo all of the bushings, shocks, TR and DL ends on front of mine.
I've chosen a two hit approach, just because I dont want to leave the axle connected to the car only by the bags, it's easier to get things aligned back into place if doing one side at a time and I'm doing the job in my down-time over a few days. I keep forgetting that the VSE project isn't my day to day work and doesn't pay the bills!
Bushes choice. I'm going for genuine LR, just because I don't want to be doing the job again in a few thousand miles. OEM these days can mean anything. I've even spotted a Chinese company called OEM something or other so they can use OEM in their product info. Of course even LR genuine parts are OEM and their suppliers have probably changed over the years so who knows, they might even arrive at LR in a big truck with Britpart on the side for reboxing, but anyway...
As far as pitfalls, just the usual anticipated rusted bolts, some of which will no doubt have to be persuaded with heat or cutting to leave their places of residence. Like you, I will have new ones to hand for everything anyway. The won't be LR though- just suitable generic ones.
In that "while you're down there" kind of way, UJs would be a good call. No need to do complete exchange prop unless splines are worn. Best ones I found when i did mine were genuine GKN at £10 each from
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-1-Propshaft-Universal-Joint-GKN-TVC100010-RTC3458-RTC4587-/370132652818?