Have a good un!
Interesting on the Euro breakdown cover. Hard to find for 15 year+ cars now. Now you have it, you won't need to use it, unless you want to save fuel cost getting home...
Smiler wrote:
I hate this thread! It's just proving that my DSE has the wrong lump fitted to it!
Your DSE has the right lump fitted to it- for a DSE!
Now the petrol/ LPG/ diesel debate as to what is the best lump for a P38 will run and run, mainly amongst those who don't have the top hat linered late 4.6 V8 LPG in their cars and need to try to (and generally fail to) justify why their choice is better :) :)
One of mine whines more than the other. Strangely enough the noisier one is the 70 000 mile new from LR one! The 130 000 mile one is whisper quiet compared to that. I just live with it, justifying it with the fact that the black car is generally very quiet (standard exhaust and tight motor) while the blue one has the stainless drainpipe exhaust etc, so it just sounds more whiny on the black one.
Until it goes bang of course!
I've put Intermotor on mine. So far so good.
Bosch 0 221 503 407 is the original, if you can find at a good price.
Spec here
Smiler will jump in as our newly self-crowned diesel god, but from what I've read, the hot start problem happens when the timing chains stretch and the FIP wears. The hot start bodge/ fix that turns glow plugs on even when engine is warm is a sort-of solution that people seem to think helps. For 30 quid, not a bad punt.
Other solution is new chains and refurbed FIP. Probably a bit expensive for a rarely used car.
Did you clean C1378- white connector behind LH footwell trim panel and C1570- white connector behind RH footwell trim panel?
Some DSP/ Nav stuff goes through those.
Pulling the plug to the nav computer (usual powerdown rules apply!) would remove any suspicion that it may be contributing.
Pictures, or it never happened :)
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Things may be easier if I could have the window all the way down. Is there a way to do this with the rear window?
Not unless you cut the bottom of the door off! It only goes down that far cos there's a wheel arch in the way.
Could take the glass out, but that would be a bit of a faff.
Martyuk wrote:
I thought RSW were in the USA?
Denver to be precise. I think Dazer had his wires crossed :)
He did mention Brighton in an earlier post so Callrova is a more likely trip- especially on a bike.
dazer2000 wrote:
I'm taking the parts to RSW Solutions. The guy is sound, knows what h's doing.
Callrova do have a good rep for BECM stuff. Did a refurb/ unlock on the BECM from my VSE while it was with the previous owner. Probably the same thing you're having done as they resynched the Motronic ECU at the same time.
Hope it works out for you
What have you used to try to read the Motronic ECM? Needs dedicated kit (Evo, Hawkeye and the like). Where are you? If you put your location into your sig there might even be someone in the next street that has the right tool to read/ programme the ECM/ BECM codes.
I take it you're in a non-starting situation at the moment?
Well, I'd go for that one then. Very cheap for genuine LR- snap it up!
Couple of lugs at the bottom. ECM then comes out in the "lid" where its just clipped in. Probably need to take the cruise unit off its mountings on the EAS box first. Only 2 or 3 self tap screws.
ECU connectors need to come off in sequence as although separate connectors they only come off/ go on one way
As you stand in front of the car, looking into the engine compartment it's right hand side in a black plastic box on the bulkhead behind the cruise control...
But
If you just need a re-synch then a suitable code reader (Nano Evo or whatever) plugged into the OBD socket will read the 4 digit code from the Motronic ECM, then just enter those 4 digits into the BECM- job done.
The CPS is ERR6119.
I'm not sure that the 'factory original' is only slightly more expensive- they look around £170 ex vat.
Alternates are £18 to £50 ex.
The Lucas one looks OK. Nice to have the Prince of Darkness on board somewhere!
gordonjcp wrote:
How Hard Can It Be to make up an alternative amp, anyway?
The DSP part is easy, the amp part is easy, you'd just need to work out what the control head is saying to the DSP.
It looks like, globally, no-one has managed to fix them when they go pop (apart from rumours that there "used to be a guy in Europe") or market an alternative Plug & Play substitute that fully replicates the performance and functionality of the original. Marty's pretty close with his multi amped board,
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=76
but still hasn't solved the problem of integrating nav into it. The XQK00010 (only fitted to Westminsters and late VSEs is even more complex as it has to handle the centre dash speaker as well.
Faced with the time and trouble to develop a solution, most people would bin the entire system and go aftermarket. It's only the originality buffs that care.
Uh oh!
So it crackles, from all speakers, just when you turn it on, then plays from radio/ cd OK, but crackles all the time the nav voice is playing back?
All I can suggest is going through all system connections looking for damp/ corrosion and popping the DSP amp itself out to see if there's water ingress.
Marty's said that he'd like to get his hands on a working DSP amp with nav etc to see how to engineer his "amps on a board" solution to fully integrate. Maybe yours would be that guinea pig, while it's still clinging to life?
Otherwise...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Harman-Kardon-Amplifier-Amp-XQK000110-/192172593166?
Is the water hot?
no10chris wrote:
It's a take the fans out job, I sealed them In with plenty of silicone,
Noooooooooooo!
I could have done that when I had the whole bloody dash out doing the heater refurb. Would have been easy then, not easy now...