Choices are limited in terms of manufacturers for these (PCH118830). Shitpart are cheap, LR are expensive.
Allmakes do one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-V8-HEATER-RETURN-HOSE-1998-2002-PCH118830-/331931721944? Their stuff is usually OK
Morat wrote:
Our local MOT station is very thorough and they're good mechanics but they insist on failing your car, then fixing it, then retesting it. Even if you take it in and say "it needs brake pipes and an MOT" they won't fix the brake pipes first.
That's a nice way to charge for 1 1/2 MOTs every time!
RutlandRover wrote:
There is a process for reporting MOT stations for carrying out bad tests and giving inaccurate results but I'm not sure if this worth the effort lol.>
Perhaps mention it to them at the next MOT so they're aware of it and don't pull the same thing again?
I don't think I want to draw down the wrath of the Men From The Ministry on their heads on this one. They're my local garage and have done all of the MOTs on everything that has passed through my hands in the last 17 years. I'd probably be ostracised in the village as well :)
With MOT history on line and accessible to all these days, if I decide to sell this one (still teetering on that) its forever branded as having been maintained by the sort of guy who would repair an exhaust with bandages, as opposed to
"13 months MOT- no advisories"
I'm impressed that your phones predictive auto correct features the name of a Russian newspaper. Wonder if Prez Trump has the same phone as you?
OK- I'll bite...
Why are your 4 new air bags featured in Izvestia ( a long-running high-circulation daily broadsheet newspaper in Russia, according to WikiPedia)?
Are you spreading your journalistic talents to a wider audience?
The 95 flew through the MOT test again today. I'm a bit miffed to see that its picked up an Advisory for the first time though:
Advisory notice item(s)
Rear exhausts repaired with bandages, no leaks
The (stainless) exhausts are in fact heat tape wrapped where they pass close to the twin LPG tank installation!
Same garage (and Tech) that has MOT'd it for the last 3 years. Same tape too.
What's more surprising is that apparently once it's in the computer it can't be changed. The car now has a stain on its character for ever.
I did give some brief thought to joining the "3 P38 Club" with that red Vogue. Gave myself a good slap and came back to reality.
I do think it has the bones of a good project though, and if the holes in the cheese stay unaligned, it could even be a decent money maker.
Always room for one more :)
I like the "only two tyres are flat" on the first one.
The 2000 Vogue looks almost too good to be true from a trader. Only 80k. Been standing from 2014 though. Surely the plate is worth the purchase price alone? If it's just in EKA lockdown a Nano would fix (assuming you could get the EKA). If full lockdown it'd be a Marty job.
Of course the fact that it can't be started could hide the fact that the engine is completely shot. If it's been on the bump stops for 3 years, the bags are likely to be shot.
Could be a fun project
Gilbertd wrote:
For a quick overtake, I just poke the Sport button when getting ready and then floor it. Not only does it hold the revs in each gear longer but it seems to make it kickdown that much quicker.
Now what would be nice would be having the sport button on the stalk, or even on the gear knob. Always takes me an appreciable amount of time to get my finger on it where it is.
Like the good book says:
CIRCUIT OPERATION
This operates only with the engine running, which is
determined by the HEVAC panel. In the off state, the
signal is at 12 volts. When the Heated Front
Windscreen is activated, the signal is switched to 0
volts. This provides the ground required for relay 5 to
be pulled in, as there is an ignition feed on the other
side of the coil provided by relay 15. This relay
energises one half of the heated screen elements.
Once relay 5 has been energised, a 12 volt signal is
provided to the coil of relay 4. The other side of the
coil is connected directly to ground, thereby
energising the relay and switching on the other half
of the elements.
There is also a feed spliced from the harness which
provides the petrol Engine Control Module with a
signal that tells the unit there will be a large electrical
load turned on/off.
By the time the next generation RR is released you'll be able to send it down to the offy for 20 Woodbines and a case of Stella all on its own, once it's over 18.
Shep- does your Adaptive Cruise have Queue Assist? This warning in the small print makes me smile:
The vehicle’s radar may not recognize a stationary vehicle as previously moving. In this case, it is possible that queue assist will not stop the vehicle behind the stationary vehicle.
Could be a more common issue on the early ones then. Perhaps I was blaming the Spanish sunshine unfairly.
Here's the dash on the '95 with my "invisible" repair- even less invisible now because the binnacle shroud has dropped due to a ham fisted PO breaking off the top two fixings. The blue one has moved to maintenance only status now, so I don't anticipate doing anything more to improve it- just drive it and fix what breaks
Gilbertd wrote:
Incidentally, it's also started to lift above the instruments but not so much that the edge can be seen as it is covered by the surround. If you look at one of the pictures of his car that DevonP38 posted (http://i.imgur.com/WbA7s9d.jpg), you'll see that his has done the same but a little more so you can see the edge of the vinyl/foam sandwich.
Same on my blue one, which has spent a chunk of its life in the Spanish sunshine. Fixed (hidden) with a strip of black self adhesive foam which fills the gap nicely.
DevonP38 wrote:
Could I tape the new on to the end of the old and pull it all the way through?
You could give it a try. It's the bit where it goes through bulkhead to brake pedal where it's a tight fit and requires gymnastics to fit to the nipple. Course there's a good chance the whole pipe is crispy and it'll just fall apart when you pull on it!
Give it a try, and if it works, buy yourself a lucky dip lottery ticket :)
We have had some odd penetrating rain here over the last couple of days. Found a puddle on my drivers floor mat this morning, and I've recently sealed and fixed all the usual suspect leak points in plenum area.
Cruise control vac pipe. Runs to a dump valve on brake switch.
All of yours look manky so easiest thing to do is replace them all from a length of silicon 5mm vac hose, and then find out why else your cruise doesn't work...
That bit of plastic is just for pretty. Doesn't contribute to waterproofing.
Likely water leak sources down here in order of popularity:
Plenum filter cover seals
Plenum filter cover screws
Plenum drains blocked
Plenum liner retaining screws corroded
Enthusiastic application of silicon will fix all but the blocked drain
Leftfield idea, but I'd give Tigerseal a go. Not an epoxy, it's a PU adhesive/ sealant. Will give a bit of flexibility to cope with the dash cover moving I use it a lot on my resto's. Never stuck a dash lid down with it though.
super4 wrote:
Think I will pop the diagnostics on again and take out the plunger in the solenoid and leave it out in the heat - that will at least show if the solenoid is causing the problem.
Please, please, please leave the LPG alone. Switch to petrol only, run on petrol only. You'll never get back to a balanced state on petrol if you even just run it on LPG for a bit to see if it's fixed. The potentially failing solenoid does not come into play when you are running on petrol. No point in playing with it as you've a new one coming. Just fit the new one when it arrives, the new HT leads when they arrive, let the petrol trims settle then address the LPG.