Lpgc wrote:
On Porth Beach Newquay campsite as I write, surrounded by VW campervans...
Now that's brave- you're about to be inundated with kiddies (and older kiddies) hitting the Boardmasters festival, starting from tomorrow. It's become one of those rites of passage for anyone aged 15 to 25 from anywhere in the south west, Only a small minority have any interest in surfing (or VW vans), and the roads are rammed with tottering teenies, parents dumping them off, picking them up, that sort of thing.
Enjoy!
I'll work on my acceptance speech- just in case
OldShep56 wrote:
Hi Colin, I'm a traitor and recently bought a 08 RR Sport. I can't see a Nano for this model. Have you produced one yet please? I'll be in Cyprus in four weeks so make sure it stays sunny please.
It appears there is one Shep:
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom41
no10chris wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
So why don't they all leak where mine does?!
Believe me when I say your be surprised how many do leak there, I've sealed up 4 of them out of 10 p38s.
I think it's down to how it's been parked over the years.
Yet another engineering wonder from LR..
I've fixed the picture link above.
I can't see how that gap can be sealed. Rain can just blow through the holes in the plenum cover (the ones without the crappy foam filter that disintegrates), through the gap and into the throat of the intake:
Unless I'm missing some foam:
There's no way you can stop water moving across the underneath of the metal plate once its got through the foam on the plastic plenum cover. Here's a pic of the other side, same as driver side with a large gap:
It can then drip where it likes eg straight down the throat of the intake.
So why don't they all leak where mine does?!
Chris- I thought I'd dealt with the leak, but it re-appeared last week. I knew the car was likely to be an ongoing project when I took it on, so haven't reached the limit of my patience with it yet, although I do hate repeating jobs. Didn't dig this deep into the leak previously though. This time the bloody thing will be watertight!
Dave- thanks for the tip, but Dremel won't fit. I have a large bag of new plastic push in screw fixings, and if the housing melts around the screw heads I'll just plastic weld in some washers!
Having exhausted all of the usual suspects-
Roof seam above screen
Fan intake plenum filter cover
Screws holding filter cover, plenum trims and everything else in that area
and still getting a puddle in drivers footwell, but only when the wind or slope where car parked are in a certain direction, I've decided to rip into it and sort once and for all.
This is about as deep as you can get in the leak feed area:
Bit of damp in the screw area at 7 o clock so a definite suspect, but I was planning to pop out the whole plastic inlet bucket pictured and re-seal the gasket and screws. That would mean that any water entering the whole front box under the screen couldn't get anywhere except out through the drain gap at the two ends and would have no path under the plastic bucket into the fan duct.
Trouble is, every screw holding in the plastic bucket is rusted solid and won't hold a screwdriver. Only option will be to drill them out- a major PITA.
In the meantime, as 7 o clock screw is wet, water is still obviously getting in from the top so need to work on that as well.
Where are you from Mark-H?
gordonjcp wrote:
Does anyone know what the differences between pre-'97 and post-'97 GEMS fuseboxes are?
I think its the compressor clutch relay (RL3) that was fitted on the later one.
Unfortunately yes. Can't buy them new anymore. VSE's seem to get scrapped every 3 or 4 months, but hearing about them is the problem.
BTW your first 2 pics have vanished and replaced by a grey No Entry sign. Last rear 3/4 view is still there.
Jealous whimper...
Looking good Rob!
Mine in similar pose- your RR decal is shinier than mine. Bet your tailgate looks great with that Vogue SE badge too :)
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
lol. you actually messaged him?
Of course!
The rest of it's pretty beaten up so a missing badge won't hurt it :)
That way he gets a tenner more from the car than he's expecting...
I've already messaged him and offered a tenner for the badge :)
That one really is one of the last of the last too- only 18 of that spec made.
Non-original radio means the 17 speaker DSP is toast, the nav is missing and the wheels aren't original either.
180k miles and all it's had are refurbed heads, so everything else is tired.
Not for me- except for the badge!
Makes me think....
The DSP system in the black car has speed (noise) dependent volume control. All I need to do is load a wav file of a Griffon at full throttle and I get the perfect in-car soundtrack :)
The joys of working in the public sector- true equality gone slightly mad. I used to work for a government agency and their rabid adherence to "benefits" rules, on-site employee car parking as a benefit and thus declarable, and their opinion that if they provided charging points for some employees they'd have to provide fuel pumps for the others (Union would have got cross otherwise), meant that even though they'd considered charging points as part of their environmental responsibility, they couldn't.
Mind you, your green chum was probably remiss in her research before she bought the car. With a new battery the smaller Leaf's best real world distance is only 70-80 miles, so knock off the lights and other essential drain it's probably more like 55! Age the battery a bit, throw in some hills and stop-start and you can probably knock another 15 off that. Starts to look a bit poxy then.
She might have been wise to actually ask the employer whether she could use their power before she got the car as well. I know mine went through a phase where they had a hissy fit about people charging their personal mobiles, until they realised it was pretty impossible to police.
I'm a bit worried that Dave says that In Car Entertainment will be banned after 2040, although I guess I'll be too deaf by then to really care...
Morat wrote:
Laundry day at Gordon's is quite squeaky...
No it isn't 'cos he uses and recommends very fine pure silicone oil
The software will tell you via a popup dialogue box once you enter the programme in real life. From memory it's fixed rpm somewhere within the range of 2800 to 3100.
It won't let you proceed with the calibration until you've stabilised the rpm at whatever it wants anyway. Takes a steady foot and avoidance of the temptation to "follow" the rpm as it changes while the calibration is happening.
gordonjcp wrote:
I guess I could make up a set of four 40mm spacers to do extended height using the "normal" blocks.
That's exactly what I did- works fine
Gilbertd wrote:
Ahh, but it's got two bends in it, although, as OB says, you can fit a straight length, it doesn't actually need the two bends they just make it look neater. I always slit the hoses lengthways with a Stanley knife to get them off the heater stubs so as not to put too much strain on the O rings. For putting them on I bought a tube of silicone grease from Maplin (as that is what Mr Land Rover says you must use on ABS sensors) and found that it is often used as a lubricant for rubber (according to the book of Wiki, that's what's used on condoms even). A smear of that on the inside of the hose and it slips on easily, even a 19mm bore hose on the heater stubs and that big lump of steel on the inlet manifold at the other end.
T'wasn't me that said it- it was Chris :)
I'd argue against silicon grease for lubing up coolant hoses, but only on the sketchy ground of the fact that OAT coolants are described as "silicate free" and if they've gone to the trouble of taking them out, why put them back in again?
Sticking with the condom theme though, maybe a water based love lube like KY Jelly would be the stuff to use? Never personally tested though :)