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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Another way a faulty petrol injector would mess things up would be if it wasn't shutting off completely. In the scenario above where the car is running on LPG, the power to open (and close) the petrol injectors is shut off, but the injector is still pressurised with petrol, and if it's leaking petrol, not only will that cylinder get it's desired shot of LPG, it'll also get the leaked petrol added to it at the same time, causing it to run rich.
That same leaky injector would also mess up things running on petrol.

Simplifying a little, but briefly, the LPG ECU takes the injector timing of the petrol injectors and adds a bit to that timing to suit LPG burning characteristics then triggers the gas injectors. When running on LPG the actual power to the petrol injectors is cut off so they don't open. In effect this means that the LPG is using the petrol fuel injector timing as determined by the cars engine management system. So, if the cars petrol engine management system is doing odd things to compensate for poor running, that will be reflected in the LPG system slavishly emulating the petrol system.

Few days I think, but I didn't need a rush job.
You could just get Blue Peterish with a battery, large can of carb cleaning spray, some fuel hose and a clear jar and clean and test your own injectors, then when you know how many duff injectors you have, buy some of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Discovery-2-Petrol-V8-Bosch-Fuel-Injector-ERR6600-Warranty-/331309241612?
With a warranty, once you've run them through your cleaning/ test rig and either sent them back or they're good to go, at that price it's a job well done.
After all, your car is going to primarily run on LPG so the less you have to spend on the petrol side, the better!

That's the one. It's only a bit of stamped tin though. I've reused the same one quite a few times with a quick spray of blue Hylomar for luck.
BTW The MrInjector that I linked to above did a good job a while back cleaning and testing a set of TR6 injectors for me.

Unless you're removing lower inlet manifold, you don't need valley gasket. Just get complete injector O ring set and remove injectors in situ.
Why not just get the existing injectors cleaned and tested rather than just replacing them?
EDIT- blimey, 2 more posts while I was typing this :)

A/C light flashing means that car is unable to reach selected temp without active aircon

I think I see what you mean- on the upright parts? Does look like the paint's had some stress flaking.
Hopefully I won't find any body parts that aren't P38 buried in there when I take it off.
I wonder if that condenser damage would restrict airflow through coolant rad? Might be a contributor to my hot running (ECM) problem. Doesn't look big enough to make much difference though.
Ho-hum, more spends on a condenser and receiver dryer to add to the list...

Crawling around the front bumper today, prior to taking it off for a lick of paint, I spotted this:
enter image description here
While it'll go part of the way to discovering why the Aircon doesn't, I'm fascinated to know how the condenser can sustain that level of damage when it's tucked away above the chassis crossmember.
On another note, anyone know whether the 2 bumper bolts are a standard Torx head size, or a non-standard one like the passenger airbag bolts?

no10chris wrote:

..., why do people mess with things they know nothing about ?


To create opportunities for those who do?!

^ what Gilbertd says!
The only sensors directly related to atmospheric conditions are:
Engine fuel temperature sensor
Coolant temperature sensor (the one on the inlet manifold)
Intake air temperature sensor
MAF (Mass airflow sensor)

RutlandRover wrote:

I won't be able to afford a proper factory restoration but the renewed availability of currently unavailable parts would be nice!


Until they announce that they're going into partnership with Britpart as their parts supplier of choice!

Seems to be intermittent on all pages of the pub. Firefox won't let me connect at all

That's my plan. Only a 2.5 hour drive so I'll aim to leave home early and get to the workshop around 0900 on Saturday.

no10chris wrote:

I remember sticking the leads through a rubber glove then stretching it over the dizzy cap on a mini,, never got wet after that 👍


That was one of the better fixes Chris. Always looked a bit weird with a bright yellow Marigold stuck on the front of the motor though.
I was impressed that they designed the A Series with the same number of ht leads as fingers in a glove. It's as if they knew...

IC engines give more power when the air is dense and cool (and dry) as more oxygen in the charge gives a bigger bang.
Used to be simple back in the old days. If your car ran better on warm dry days (ie ran less well when it was damp), then something was going bad in the HT electrics- usually distributor cap or HT leads.
Minis (the old A Series engined ones) and WD40 used to be pretty inseparable due to the distributor being located at the front of the engine, right behind the grille.
Might be the same with your P38- if your HT leads are breaking down or you have tracking at the coils, you'll get a misfire on maybe as few as 1 cylinders. That's not always easy to hear but will have an effect on performance.
As Aragorn says, a failing sensor may also cause the engine to change to a default strategy and run less well.

No specials :(
£67.50 for non-refundable, £75 for refundable

Are those of us staying going with Marty's suggestion of the Premier Inn Swindon North?
I'd like to get on and book my room- one less thing to plan!

Well, the good news is that the TB heater plate isn't too dear and you can order at the same time as your gold plated sump washer. You can also just bypass it by linking the 2 hoses together and it'll never leak again!
Bad news is the oil cooler hose fittings can corrode on to the radiator and you may end up having to replace the whole lot!

Inevitable? Get your hand in the drain bowl and fish it out :)
You sure it didn't stay on the sump plug? IIRC mine had an aluminium seal on it which colourwise matched the plug.

Assuming you have a new cam to replace it with (!), using a small pair of side cutters just snip away enough plastic to be able to grip the end of the pin. It's not usually too tight once you get a grip on it with the pliers.