Certainly looks like the UV leak detection stuff that it's dumped out of there. I take it your aircon no longer works?
Ferryman wrote:
Just check the fitment of the fancradle to the rad, I had to adjust one and other.
Spot on Tony, or rather not.
Fan cradle fittings are all over the place. I think they just drilled the mount holes at random, after a few beers at lunchtime.
You've saved me a fair bit of time there, as I would have just fitted and plumbed the condenser rad and then found I had to mess around getting the fan unit to fit. Much easier to do with it still on the bench. Thanks.
Aragorn wrote:
it IS connected to the lambdas though, in live data view they're displayed and flick around showing rich and lean as you'd expect.
The fuel trim thing makes more sense, i noticed bank 2 was acting oddly, maybe i need to put that back to zero?
You know your system, so if it is actually physically connected to the lambda sensors, then see what happens when you change that setting :)
The balancing number setting goes something like this (from my setup crib sheet- it comes after getting it running approx. right with Autocalibrate)
If the engine is being run as 2 banks, when running on gas, compare the two Tinj.Petrol timings. They will be different, but if one bank is consistently more or less than the other, you should adjust the Fuel Trim Bank 2 until the timings are about the same. If Tinj.Petrol for bank 2 is, say 10% higher than bank 1, add 10 to the Fuel Trim Bank 2 figure and vice versa. The trim figure can be negative. Repeat the above until the two Tinj.Petrol values average around the same
Aragorn wrote:
I noticed something a bit strange in the Lambda menu as well.
Strange Lambda screen, what does "fuel trim bank 2" do?, and why are the sensors set to "not connected" when they were definitely showing readings on the main screen with the engine running:
I can help with the middle bit.
Fuel Trim Bank 2 is a +/- number which is changed to balance the gas flow to each bank of cylinders.
The sensors are set to "Not Connected" because your gas system is not connected to the Lambda sensors. It gets its timings from the petrol management system.
Here's a really good reason to replace the receiver/ dryer. The bits you can't easily see. Mine is almost rusted through- from the outside!
Mechanically, nothing. Just trim and fit-out levels.
On the last production run, 300 units out of factory in late 2001- hand finished wood trim colour coordinated with the exterior paint, extra chrome interior finishers, even more powerful audio fit with 5 additional speakers (shared with the Westminster), Trafficmaster system, Colour coordinated piping on seats and carpets, DVD installation on some, Comet wheels, tailgate badge.
.... and, as Chris says, the price
Gilbertd wrote:
4 unless you are excluding Gordon (which, as he runs the forum is probably not a good idea......).
I was counting the boot badges :)
Darn things are getting far too common now- that's 3 of us on the forum :)
Welcome Rob. Having had three P38s before you'll know what you're letting yourself in for!
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Just to clarify, I've robbed nothing. Tis just an expression.
LOL- I know :)
That's why I put it in inverted commas. The days when you could go into the scrappy with a large tool box, pay for a sprogget nut or whatever and struggle out with a much heavier tool box are long gone- not that I would ever condone that kind of behaviour, but I had a friend who managed to keep a fleet of fairly exotic cars on the road through his impoverished student days, buying only sprogget nuts. Who said the 70's were all bad?!
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
The car at the scrap yard that I've been robbing bits from is a vogue SE. There was nowt wrong with it apparently. 2002, Metallic blue, lightstone interior with a hideous green walnut trim. So that's one less on the road.
"Rob" me the boot badge from it then!!!
Also, if in great condition, "rob" the lightstone boot side covers (left and right), boot cappings (the bits with the speakers in), door cards except drivers.
Happy to pay "expenses" ;-)
I'll check that Tony- thanks.
The 100 lb weight of the bumper assembly was an internet myth- easily lifted and moved around.
I've found another broken air duct- ESR3304- that'll have to be replaced...
...as well as some superficial but irritating (to me) rust on crush cans and other hidden parts, which will need treating.
Waiting for parts (the duct) will delay me by a day so I should get it all resprayed and back together just in time for the weather to drop back to normal temperatures- typical!
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Well I'm glad you're all pleased that I fixed mine. :-)
Not as pleased as you must be, driving around with chilled air circulating around you :-)
Ah, the mythical one piece Vogue SE badge. I dream about that damn badge. Mine looks naked without it.
That's great Marty. Thanks.
I'll Paypal cash over to you when I get home this evening, unless you'd prefer it another way?
Seems like an appropriate day to fight with the bumper etc- 29 degrees in the workshop at the moment.
Having driven around for the last few days I can confirm that black cars with no aircon and 25 degree plus temperatures are bloody uncomfortable!
Been soaking the bumper bolts (E14 as you said Marty) in penetrant for a few days and approached them with trepidation, stuck on impact gun and they flew out. Just have to find an able assistant to help lift the bumper off. 100 lbs of metal cased in fragile plastic doesn't sound like a 1 man job, although I'm sure it can be done.
Realised that the entire lower valance was missing, so the impact damage theory above looks sound. Blue car's going to donate the lower valance as I'm spraying the whole thing anyway.
Meanwhile these shiny bits are taunting me...
Quick response to your aside Simon!
I'm just out cooking in the workshop, removing my knackered condenser (and receiver/ dryer!) and your suggestion piqued my interest so thought I'd have a look at the Halfords kit you mentioned.
The refrigerant itself
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/air-con/ez-chill-auto-air-conditioning-recharge
£40.00
The dispenser/ gauge
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/air-con/ez-chill-auto-airconditioning-reusable-trigger-dispenser-gauge
£20.00
So total £60.00- not that cheap really, especially when Halfords are offering a system flush and recharge for £40.00 at the moment!
Something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Tools-UK-BEST-G4095-Eezi-Lap-Oscillating-Valve-Lapper-Tool-/181507212901?
I use a tight fitting short bit of fuel hose over the collet end of the valve with a stud at other end of hose into battery drill chuck. With a combination of a greasy finger pushing on valve head and pulsing the drill it gives pretty good results, not oscillating though so purists would object. When tested after with engineers blue gives a good consistent seat though.
Coincidentally I've just bought a new condenser (and receiver/ dryer) for mine. At less than £90 for both inc. ND shipping, 2 years warranty, it seems like a small price to pay compared to the time to remove again and cost of a re-gas (£68 for me) when the glue repair fails in a couple of weeks.
While you wait for LPGC to come back, have a read of this
http://tinleytech.co.uk/help-and-advice/fine-tuning-an-aeb-manufactured-lpg-system/
Not your system, I know, but it explains the principle of sorting the rest of the mapping for other points in the rev range
Sloth wrote:
ARP studs - one side will thread in but are not all straight, I can't drop the head over them at all.
It's probably the way I'm reading what you've written, but the studs get screwed in after the head is dropped onto the dowels, not before- or at least that's the way I built mine recently