The staples on the blue one, fitted by a PO, make me cross every time I look at them Ferry. They're not shiny brass though.
Went for this in the end- total time to fix 5 minutes!
Not sure my headliner will last that long! The steam I've been using on carpets etc has accelerated the sagging and it'll be hanging on my head soon. Going to have to do a temporary fix, using something more aestetically pleasing than the staples holding the liner up on the blue one.
I'm thinking some springy metal between the top of the C pillar trims, sprayed with Lightstone...
You can show the images in the thread by pasting in the image link (use the 5th box from right) like this:
First time I've ever seen aluminium welded by pouring in metal though. You going to keep it or return it and go OEM?
On yours or your parents?
That's a bit of a list- you're almost in Project with a capital P territory there. Looks very similar to my list for the black one, only I had more oily bits to do!
While I think about it, when you're waterproofing the plenum, check/ replace/ seal the self tappers that run along the bottom holding the black panel in place.
This is what mine were like. No amount of sealant round filters etc would stop the leak through those holes, hence the PO stuffing all manner of sponges and cloths under the dash :)
Another of those 5 minute jobs eh Sloth?!
A testament to your persistence as well. I'd have whipped out the disc cutter and chopped off the whole boss/ sensor after the first failed attempt :)
On the plus side, the exhaust must be pretty solid if that amount of force didn't twist it to destruction.
Am I safe going second hand from the place in Norfolk, or should I not skimp and just go new on these?
Well, on my GEMS, I have one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-1994-TO-2002-WASHER-PUMP-PART-AMR3271-/261673441758?
Still working after a couple of years
On the Thor I have one of these from Furness (says headlight, but all 3 pumps are the same, just different connector socket colour)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Headlight-Headlamp-Wash-Washer-Motor-Pump-AMR3272-with-Warranty-/232232386357?
Or why not treat yourself to a genuine LR one- only £63.00 :)
So, I'm trying to get hold of replacement lightstone fir trees to hold the covers over the rear mounts of the front seats.
EZM100330SMK x 12
Turns out the average price for these is around £5.00 each inc vat!!!
It appears that this is exactly the same part, ADU7995SMK which I can get from Paddocks for £0.35 each
Doesn't make a lot of sense, does it?
Anyone know of an even cheaper substitute?
While wandering idly through radiators, I found this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRENZA-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-P38-V8-4-0-4-6-94-/350591602189?
If I were going to replace a rad on mine, I'd be tempted to go for an all aluminium one with extra cooling capacity- but that's just me...
My favourite breaker has some in. Comparatively cheap too
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Air-Conditioning-Condenser-Radiator-Fans-STC3680-with-warranty-/262825804996?
Alternative to Bearmach is a Nissens for around the same price
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Radiator-64302A-Fit-with-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-/330843640200?
Praise indeed coming from the ultimate shiny seat man :)
After a damn good steaming, I had to abrade quite a lot of the original top coat and sealant, which flattened out the finer creases. Then an hour or two with repair paste on the larger ones, then completely re-dye (airbrushed with Glyptone dye), then sealed with a semi-matt sealer.
Time consuming- not sure I could make a living out of it!
EDIT- you're almost correct about camera setting Ferry, the after pic was taken while it was still under a heat light. :)
Still alive, but haven't started the back yet. Quite pleased with the result though:
I found that just unclipping and lifting the expansion tank on my GEMS gave me enough lift to ensure that with coolant at level mark it was highest point in system (lpg vapouriser was mounted quite high).
I found it so useful I modded the expansion tank clip to raise the front by around 3 cm permanently. Had to relieve the padding under bonnet in vicinity of filler cap but all in all an easy mod.
I use a vacuum filling system on the Thor and have had, after several refills, no bleeding issues.
Ever wish you hadn't started something?
Anyone ever tried steaming a seat back with a side airbag in it?
Who knows, this might be my last post on here, but at least I'll go the way I wanted- with a face full of pyrotechnics...
Plastic up to introduction of Thor. Replaced by stainless component.
If they break, worst case total loss of brakes, but in reality, how many cases worldwide?
Many pages of debate/ discussion here
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/15632-please-read-all-p38-owners-up-mid-1999-brake-modulators.html
"Clicky" pedal is usually first symptom.
I can't make 24/25 June. That's Glastonbury time unfortunately.
I'm definitely interested. Oatmeal looks closest to original. I'll order a swatch to double check.
One thing that we'll need to do is set up a "clean area" in the workshop as we can't rely on blazing sunshine like last time. Suggest we invest in a few tarps to put on the floor?
At least it's now running! Been a long sad story so far.
Mirror- many breakers in UK will post to EU so try eBog.
Depends how badly it's broken eg just glass or whole thing.
Memory or non-memory? You'll need to count pins on connector- pop off tweeter, unplug connector.
Example here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-6-Electric-Heated-Door-Mirror-LH-Left-10Pin-13Way-Memory-Good-/132134211659?
More details needed on shake:
Misfire?
Steering wheel?
Front or back?
acceleration or cruising?
It's been standing around for so long that tyres may have flat-spotted. Been in bits so check wheelnuts are tight!
Well, you've covered the usual suspects. Assuming the new battery is fully charged it should be capable of spinning the car over. Time to go back to basics. It's possible that the battery cables/ connectors are corroded so when you've moved them to change battery they've gone high resistance. Give everything a good scrub and inspect the cables (power and grounds) where they join connectors, and that all of your ground points are clean.
Try carefully sticking 12v straight onto starter solenoid (the thin brown/ red cable) and see if it turns over. Check that RL16 is throwing as well.
Shep- perhaps you should mention that your stupid price is stupidly low, not stupidly high :)