To save it getting lost in my Resurrection thread, I thought I'd ask for some advice here on one particular aspect. Cleaning the plug and socket pins on the connectors. I'll use C0636 on the engine ECU as my example as that's the one I'll be focussing on tomorrow.
My normal way of cleaning these things is to just hit them with my fave spray- WD40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner, let it dry and that would be it, but I'd like to do something more physical as well to be sure.
How can get in/ what should I use to clean the individual pins and sockets. I don't want to get as drastic as actually removing individual wires from the connector, but does anyone have a favourite way of physically introducing something onto pins/ into sockets to help the spray cleaner do its stuff?
Only idea I have at the moment is to spray the connector then, rather than let the spray evaporate, make and unmake the connector several times with it still wet, then hit it with some clean dry air, then spray again with cleaner and let it dry.
Anyone have any better ideas?
I think that's the way to go. Just have to be certain I know the order of the re-sync first!
I'll start another thread on the best way to clean connectors on the Electrickery thread. Normally I'd just hit them with my fave spray- WD40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner, let it dry and that would be it, but I'd like to do something more physical as well to be sure.
Gives me an idea Sloth- I could just disconnect battery, pull old "unknown" ECU, clean plugs thoroughly. Put in original (has VIN from car from factory on it) ECU, then pick up immob or rather sync code from non original BECM with Nano (probably first before disconnecting battery) and enter it into the replacement ECU.
I think that's how you sync BECM and engine ECU on a Motronic using Nano isn't it? New to all this Thor stuff and the way it presents on Nano!
Can then do BECM, locksets etc at a more convenient time.
Sloth wrote:
If you're thinking of swapping the BECM and ECU, you'll end up disconnecting the battery (or removing power from them at least by unplugging them), so why not just disconnect the battery now and give cleaning the plugs a go...?>
Vehicle unlocked, disconnect battery. Check plugs, reconnect battery, all should be well, at least with regards to EKA etc.
Have you checked the resistance of the heaters in your sensors Ray?
Have a look at this.
I'd suggest trying the BMW/ Bosch data first
That'd work Shep- for the original EKA code (which I have) for the original electronics that I'm seriously considering swapping in. Won't work for the mystery set that the PO threw in to solve a problem he had at the time and which I'm running on at the moment. Thanks for the idea though.
OldShep56 wrote:
When mine misbehaved, I didn't have the EKA code. I simply rang my local dealer with the VIN number and they gave me the EKA code.
If the connector is melted (don't care about ECU pins- it's going anyway) then I really am in a world of pain, or engine loom replacement, or connector replacement at least, but I'm going to cross more fingers and hope that isn't the case!
I can see a cry of "does anyone know a source for these connectors/ pins/ sockets whatever" going out, although I am talking to Chris offline about spare looms/ connectors.
Thanks for the info on the injector common supply. Will prove useful if the alternative is taking off that plenum upper again.
Oh bloody great. I'm pulling the blower relays in 364 days.
Thank erm heavens for that!
I have had another thought...
If you've been following my Resurrection thread in the last 1/2 hr or so I mention C0636 as (in my mind) the potential root of all my petrol idling/ mad metrics issues. Now Injector #1 is mentioned in the list of things fed from that connector. I wonder if this sudden LPG thing may be connected (sorry!) to that?!
It'd be almost too convenient!
I'll give it a go Richard. It'll be a waiting game as the petrol light appearing is a very random thing.
I'm kind of hoping it's not the ignition switched as that emanates from under the bloody plenum upper on #1 injector and I REALLY don't want to be taking that off again!
Does the ignition feed have to come from the injector at that point or can I substitute it from somewhere at the ECU end of the feed to that injector if it does prove to be faulty?
The ones from the new car went in the bin- had to handle them with forceps and a respirator, but, unusually, didn't take a picture.
Have a nice Blue Box set, including plenum foam, to put back in. Surely even the Blue Box company can't mess those up?
Had a thought (just the one), when pondering the multiplicity of problems I'm having with the sensors and electronics all of a sudden on this expletive deleted car. (LPG not included- that's another issue)
One thing they all have in common is connector C0636 on the engine ECU. I've put the pics of items that are driven/ drive through that connector at the end of this ramble.
Anyhow, when I bought the car, it was withdrawn from sale cos the guy couldn't start it. When he got round to getting the AA/ RAC whoever to his place to get it going, the tech eventually diagnosed bad engine ECU connections and gave them a squirt of something, and the car started and ran, and got through an MOT.
I'm now wondering if the bad ECU connector is manifesting itself again. Now that would be an easy thing to check except I can't disconnect the battery on the car as I have none of the codes (EKA etc) to get the thing going again if I disable it. Pulling the ECU plugs without disconnecting the battery is a no no according to RAVE and you have to pull them all sequentially.
Maybe it's time to bite the bullet and put the original BECM/ ECU/ Ignition lock/ Door Handle/ new door latch/ RF receiver back in now, with fingers crossed that I can re-sync everything with the Nano, clean the ECU connectors to within an inch of their lives and everything will be magically fixed.
I've only got 6 days left to get this thing running, even if only on petrol, before the blue one is out of tax.
Thoughts?
Pics of connector functions follow:
Well I checked all of the black cables at LPG ECU plug (it's a shame you can't see what's getting into the ECU though the plug, but no way am I attempting to dismantle the ECU!) for continuity to battery earth and all checked out OK. Thinking about it though, had ECU plugged in when I tested, so for a true individual continuity check guess I have to do it again with the ECU unplugged?!
Drivers kick panel and instrument binnacle cover (where LPG switch was positioned horizontally so you can't see lights when driving!) off tomorrow so I can see what I can see at the switch.
The plot thickens and I'm getting less optimistic as the options are tested and found working...
Was a brown wire in a black sheath! I had to replace that one most of the way with a plain brown one as the insulation was damaged in a few places!
Lpgc wrote:
Yes but watch out for the rpm wire which is brown inside a black sheath.
Ooh- a dirty pictures thread. Can anyone join in?
The red/ black pin in the molex diagnostics connector is broken. That can't help with diagnostics!
It's not stuck in my Serial end of the molex!
Fortunately I have a bag of assorted Molex's (Molii?!) at home, hopefully among them will be a set of pins the correct size. If so, will make a new Molex
Simin- can I assume that any solid black cable is (or is meant to be) an earth?
Lpgc wrote:
While you're under the cover, check the earth wire connections in the loom under the cover are all good.
Simon
5mv between ECU case and battery ground and pin# 51 (ECU main ground) and batt ground.
Pretty much background noise for that particular meter. Direct earth cable from ECU case to batt ground made no difference. Gave connectors a shot of contact cleaner this morning, but I'll get in there with a cotton bud!
When you say chassis do you mean vehicle chassis earth, which it is and I've checked for drop between it and batt earth, or LPG ECU chassis which was never earthed per se as it sat inside the redundant GEMS ECU box. I'll stick an earth from LPG ECU case to batt earth to see what happens...
Lpgc wrote:
Did you get my bit that implied it may have worked OK before if the chassis was earthed before (but now with ECU not bolted to chassis you lose this other earth point). Chassis shouldn't need to be earthed but I've found on older ECUs earthing the chassis can help. When I see a problem like yours I measure voltage between chassis earth and battery earth, any voltage above say 0.5 when all solenoids and injectors are working may imply a problem (which can cause analogues signals such as pressures and temperatures to be read incorrectly), sometimes just earthing the chassis can help.
Simon
Simon- you don't happen to have a pinout for the Alisei main connector do you? Tony's Vogel one was fine for the main power stuff, but differs when it comes to the switch
Cheers
Mark
EDIT- just seen your edit above- will digest, but have taken my measurements at ECU earth input pin