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Well, I've asked them whether they have, although £12 is a bit of a wince!
Will publish their reply on here (once I've bought the last 2 in the world!)

Gilbertd wrote:

John Craddock lists the bulbholder and is the only supplier that doesn't say it is out of stock or obsolete. Maybe he's got a stash of them?

I wonder if anyone's come up with a plug and play alternative to holder AND bulb? Ideally an LED (with holder that will fit the bayonet fixing in the reflector) that doesn't generate error codes, or bayonet/ screw in bulb (ditto on the holder)?
Never seen a reference but haven't researched too deeply yet.

gordonjcp wrote:

EDIT- cheesus, who'd have thought you can no longer buy new sidelight bulb holders for a P38?!

Aw bugger, really? Mine appear to both be knackered.

But be sure that it is RF interference causing the problem 'cos you'll have to pay through the nose for the latest one (and watch for fakes!)
Cheapest used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-rover-p38-rf-receiver-battery-drain-fix-green-spot/272521057325?
Cheapest new:
https://www.lrdirect.com/YWY500170-Receiver-Module-Remote-RR-P38/

riddlemethis wrote:

If it turns out you need to change the receiver the P/N is YWY500170 for the latest green dot version.

The latest LEDS have heat sinks on the back- solid, no fans to fail.
Did you see my message on the LED thread re the spare bulb/ NRV I have for you BTW?
The gentle teasing about melting headlights was just that. I don't think anyone on here believes that glass lenses and reflectors are going to fail due to a 100w bulb. Sloth's point about the Mosfets/ relays/ power board was a valid one, but as yours are lasting then you're proving that the system can cope.
I wonder though, if there actually is a wattage limit on latest cars with plastic lenses, but as the days are long gone when I ever own a "latest" car I'm never likely to find out!

I think Shep that your battery went flat for some mysterious reason (maybe a neighbour has a new 433mhz toy like a weather station for Christmas) and the relatively small amount of running around was enough to put enough charge back in to enable you to start it,especially when the engine oil was a bit warmer and thinner, but not enough to fully charge it. You haven't driven enough miles to bring it back to full health.
Have you tried putting the battery on charge with one of the "newish" battery charger/ maintainers until the charger reports that it's happy and healthy.
Have you put a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running to see what voltage the alternator is actually putting into the battery?
If your alternator bearings are indeed singing, then maybe a planned and pre-booked replacement now will save you from a roadside failure later. No real point in waiting for it to go bang just to eke a few more miles out of it.
Good luck

Chris
It so happens that I found a blue 100/55 Xenon bulb in the light unit I was swapping into mine. I'll test it and if you want it and a non-return valve pm me your address and I'll drop them in the post to you.
M

OOOOer, I haven't got 4.9.3- I'm envious as collecting this software is my new hobby!
Royal pain having to install/ uninstall each time though, although if I wanted to be clever I could set up a different user login for each version :)
Academic as the system is as dead as a pile of Dodos at the moment and I MUST get it running properly on petrol with the new brains installed by the end of the month when tax on Blue one runs out and I need to get it sold.

Martyuk wrote:

Edit: Other versions that I have of Zavoli software are:
6.0.3.x
Regal (E)
4.0.6.133
4.9.3

I don't use it much either, but as far as I know if you send a link that's all the recipient can get to. You can set up a named list of people that can post files into your box and that others on that list can see.
Here's my cleansed database of Zavoli files, by the way.
I seem to be lacking tech manuals more than anything- pinouts and points where I can check voltages etc, but I'll get to the bottom of it as long as I haven't toasted the ECU somehow.

enter image description here

Thanks again for your help so far
Mark
EDIT- Marty beat me to the Reply button!

Cheers Simon
Worked through Dropbox nicely.
Only laptop I have left running vintage Windows is an old XP one. Pretty sure it's 32bit. It's now at workshop, where I'm not!
I'm tidying my versions as we speak (or rather as I type) and will update the list soon!
EDIT- other half's Birthday so have to leave this important stuff and head out for a meal :)

LH Headlight now installed with LED and fully operational with wash wipe water cooling. Same bloody sidelight tussle. Time to get some new bulbs and holders I think.
That's it for the day...
EDIT- cheesus, who'd have thought you can no longer buy new sidelight bulb holders for a P38?!

Heidi from Zavoli reckons she's got Version 5.0.5 of the software. That'll be one more to add to my collection if I ever get it powered up again!
I might just give up doing P38's and become an LPG software and manual collector. You can do that from the comfort of your armchair rather than a freezing workshop!

Only Chris's :-)
RH headlight certainly won't. Now have it working fully and installed with LED bulbs and working wash/ wipe so it's even water cooled!
Sidelight put up a bit of a fight though- I've always thought those bulbs held in with friction and contacted by bent wire were a cr@p idea!

Thought it might be useful if I listed what software and manuals I actually have. Nothing specific to the 2856B though...

See later post for updated list!

Been headlighting and freezing today so not going to get any further with gas today, but tomorrow....

Priority today- 20 gallons of red diesel for the space heater. Literally 2 degrees in the workshop and I can barely feel my fingers!

Sort of a post Brexit residency application then?
:-)

gordonjcp wrote:

I know there was one website - b3ta, maybe? - that required a simple literacy test involving things like "their, they're and there" and "could have/could of" type questions as part of the registration process :-D

Hmmmm- could be- I'll take a look tomorrow
Thanks for that

Gilbertd wrote:

Simon is referring to the cables that go to the petrol ECU not the LPG injectors. You've got two looms, one per bank, and one has the pickup for the ignition switched supply, the other doesn't. So you'll have one loom with 8 wires, two per injector cut feed, and one with 9 wires, the injector cuts plus the supply from the common ignition switched supply to the petrol injectors. If you've swapped the plugs over, the ignition switched supply won't be going anywhere.

The more I mess with those crunchy wires, the more worried I get. If they hadn't done multiple folds in the excess loom to squeeze it into the old engine ECU box together with the LPG ECU I'd be a happy bunny, but time and heat have set the loom into a box shaped series of loops- a bit like Japanese foot binding!

Gilbertd wrote:

Having just gone through about 100 different pdf files, I can't find it. However, if you use the installation diagrams, that shows what colour wires go where so by taking the back off the plugs, you'll be able to see which wires are connected to which pins.

Duly done Tony
Cheers
Mark

Or if Carlsberg had made the P38....

Morat wrote:

If Salvador Dali painted headlights....

Mine's the 2568B Tony, but I imagine the pinouts are the same if the Vogels is a clone....

Ferryman wrote:

Is the pinout of the AEB 2568D 50-pin socket the same as installed by Vogels? I do have a hardwaremanual with pinout if you wish.
Tony.