AFAIK the aircon is fully functioning, although I have a Nano report of a short to earth on the dist motor occasionally :)
I didn't remove any plugs from the LPG ECU at all. The other ends- that go into the Matrix units, stayed on their own side of the respective heads , so I don't think I could have Simon.
User Name Deleted (!- just in case AEB or Zavoli are reading this) has been kind enough to send me a few different versions of software and documentation (6.0.5.322 IC; 4.7.6.233 IC; 1.0.1.201) but until I can get the system to show some kind of life I can't test anything. I'm getting pretty fast at uninstalling/ installing the software though, as I found that multiple versions on the same machine- even installed in different places with different names- don't play well together.
I suppose, ideally, I'm looking for software and literature that reflect the system manufacturing date of approx November 2005.
More suggestions as to troubleshooting the dead system are welcome. I've got so much on my hands with this car at the moment that I'm spreading myself in too many directions and leaving too many jobs half done.
Tonight's thought is that my petrol misfire and dead lpg might reflect a pinched or broken wire when I reinstalled top plenum, especially if there's a power feed to the LPG ECU from the petrol injector power feed.
Thanks Simon- your input is always welcome
Lpgc wrote:
You haven't just swapped the two black plugs over that carry the petrol injector signals to the LPG ECU have you...
I can send versions of Zavoli software.Simon.
That diagram showing pinout voltages would be a wonderful thing to have. 2 unwanted non-return valves arrived today. Does that help with locating it?!
And is the 12v feed meant to be permanently live or via ignition switch?
Logic would say ignition switched, but my logic gland isn't working too well at the moment
Yeah- the thing is, once you know these things are there, they irritate the hell out of you, but the reality is a bit like my favourite domestic DIY argument.
There's no point repainting skirting boards 'cos nobody ever looks at them...
Will do Gilbertd. Extreme cold and numb fingers have driven me out of the workshop (out of red for heater) so will get on the case tomorrow morning.
Do I test data lines across to earth? Is switch 12v line ignition or perm live?
Well, AEB have terminated my relationship with them by refusing to supply me with the software I'm seeking "for licence reasons" but have kindly passed on my email chain to Zavoli, who emailed me today.
They're prepared to sell me the correct software for the B type controller. My main problem now is that the lpg system steadfastly refuses to come to life in any shape or form. Have checked and cleaned all connectors, batt power and fuse and earth, but- nothing. No lights at switch. Only cable I've replaced was a single cable to the rpm signal at engine ECU where the insulation was chafing through. Only connection I took off was power to tank solenoid while I was playing with petrol side looking for misfire. Those connectors are insulated and definitely didn't short to each other or earth. I even marked them to make sure they went back onto solenoid the same way they came off.
Where to start with the in depth fault finding ie which bits don't take whole system out if there's a broken cable or something?
Ah nuts!
Was just about to reinstall headlight when I spotted this crack in the headlight washer pump. Still works, but for how long?:
There goes my last spare. Now I'm pleased I ordered an extra one!
Also discovered, when giving it a last wipe off, that the front bumper has been poorly painted in the past, so bang goes any chance of respraying that in-situ. More stuff to take off. Bet those bolts won't be rusty :)
Chris' car after a long night drive:
Whilst they'd be extremely accurate,as soon as you used them, you'd then find you needed them for a rocker adjustment!
I was thinking rubber or something softer and non absorbent
Ferryman wrote:
I like low budget solutions! If all else fails I'll do that, I could use the rockershaft pedestalshims for adjustment ha ha.
Thanks Mark.
Ferry- a quick fix would be to just insert a bit of packing between the RH side of the headlight unit and its plastic frame. The inherent flexibility of the unit will allow a fair few mm of movement and, with care, will be invisible.
A no-cost, low risk, tiny time fix!
History would seem to prove that I am, although, in my defence, they came in a very expensive box :)
Bet your lifetime bulb warranty wouldn't pay out if you sent them the pic of the headlight I've just "removed" and asked for your money back?!
, no10chris wrote:
, are you crazy ?
Metallic paints are a pain in the ar$e to touch up. You almost inevitably have to paint to a handy shut line unless you're really practiced. Maybe cheaper in the long run to get one of those visiting Dent Magician types to come and do it for you. They have the infrared heaters and the ability to mix the paint to match any fade that has taken place since the car was built.
In addition, modern 2 pack paints require breathing apparatus, water based take an oven or serious sunshine to dry. If you don't seal the original paint it can easily pickle through as well.
If you want to practice I suggest you send your paint code to a company like Autopaints in Brighton:
http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/
I used to be Brighton based and involved in a chain of garages and we used them all the time.
They'll mix you up an aerosol or two of your paint colour, recommend and supply the type of paint and primer for your purpose, then you can practice on any old body panels you have lying around. Then decide whether you want to go for it on your car.
Will do Dave- hope to have lights, with LEDs, back on car tomorrow but won't have a chance to get it on the beam setter until I've got the car running well enough to get it to his garage.
Need to get that upper plenum off again and get the coil packs changed...
I'd love to have inflicted that degree of destruction with a Dremel, but would probably have to have fired it out of a cannon directly at the headlight!
With the 2 problem rusted nuts on the encapsulated plastic studs, with limited access and the bolt onto the chassis at bottom having a rounded head, I was pretty stuffed. You could try drilling them, but they spin. You could use heat on the studs and hope to melt the encapsulated plastic, or you could say:
"Stuff it, I've spent an hour messing with these and I'm not getting anywhere. I've got a complete new unit to put in anyway and I'll just break the plastic"
Which is what I did. Used a pry bar, paying attention not to inflict any damage to the body metalwork, which survived intact. Shame about the light, but I try to cost my time and the time I was spending was more than I'd have got for the light if I'd repaired the mounts as per the LHS one and sold it.
Had to make a new loom for the replacement light as found those lovely plastic chop blocks hidden under the rubber bulb covers.
If you've got the same problem, you can buy the black plastic mounting brackets intact for around £25. You just have to get the headlight out intact though!
Gilbertd- my mate used one of those "big yellow spanners" to cut a wheel (in bits) off his Mondeo when he rounded off a wheel nut! I wasn't around to advise alternatives, but if I had been, I'd probably just have videoed him doing it and put it on YouTube!
Ferryman wrote:
I can take a joke to a certain extent but I'm in the same boat. Is this what I can expect when using a dremel?
Do you have the type with the adjustable focus ring on them. I have these ones, which you can rotate within the lens to move the dip cut off around:
http://www.powerfuluk.com/vehicles/range-rover-full-size/p38/exterior-accessories/h4-led-4000-lm-headlight-bulbs-range-rover-p38-white-pair.html
Blue interior light?
BTW, just in the process of rebuilding my headlights with LEDs. How hard did you find it to adjust them to get the correct cut off on dip?
So no flagging then Gordon? Suggestions as to how we can eliminate these spammers welcome. They're a pet hate of mine
Just a little. Rusty nuts encapsulated in brittle plastic. Couldn't even get the Dremel in on this side.
Shame really as it was a facelift light with just a splinter hole on the supplimentary main side. Not even an MOT failure.
Could have flogged it on the Bay for a few quid to cover some of the costs of the bits and pieces I've bought recently.
Ah well, if you can't take a joke, don't buy a P38...
Good thinking Tony!
Unfortunately some slight collateral damage removing RH Headlight. Still, a bit of T Cut and I think it'll work again!
Still a bit more stuck in the car though
