Celebrating a small success- the rear washer now works- new pump and a (gentle- round 10 PSI) air blow through the line with the jet ball removed cleaned and replaced. So now, I can wash and wipe the rear window, even if I can't actually go anywhere :)
Does mean I have a couple of one-way valves somewhere in the postal service that I don't need, so, if anyone needs one...
An exciting (!) washer update...
Rear washer wasn't working because some PO had cut/ broken the pipe from the pump. Hidden it away behind the headlight and put a self-tap screw into broken off pump outlet. Didn't unplug pump though so that eventually burned itself out. Took a big chance on destroying piping run somewhere in car (and that it was indeed the rear washer pipe), took little ball out of nozzle end (fiddly) and shoved low (ish) pressure air through pipe which came out at far end in a spray of mud and muck. Put little ball back in after a cleaning session with pin (again v fiddly).
We'll see what happens today when I fit new pump as was heartily fed up with getting repeated doses of washer fluid into my armpit cos too lazy to drain tank!
Headlight washers, just a failed T non-return valve. Didn't have one locally so another £3.00 on a couple of spares that'll be here later in week.
Coil packs arrived- blimey they're huge. Only did them by feel when I put Magnacors on so didn't really get a sense of how big/ heavy they actually are. Anyway, today, if I finally finishing cleaning, washing, painting headlight units and trim and refitting, it's off with the upper plenum again and on with the coil packs. having done the plenum once, I can do it a lot faster this time :)
JB Weld may be more accessible in Holland- same sort of stuff as Araldite. I only used Araldite 'cos I happened to have the "rapid" stuff lying around which only takes 3 hours to fully cure. The JB Weld that I have is the full-fat stuff that takes 24 hours.
Gilbertd wrote:
Araldite is a brand, common in the UK but obviously not in Holland. It's a two part epoxy resin, resin and hardener come in two tubes, mix an equal amount of each together and it sticks most things. It's also useful for building up missing bits if something has broken off.
Better than a Lada Riva then?
Ferryman wrote:
It had a sound... even with centre silencer it had a deep rumble like a Riva speedboat.
I wanted a used Yamaha RD200 but my Dad said that I'd kill myself on that Japanese rubbish. He didn't seem to have a problem with East German stuff though!
My first ever bike was an MZ150- brand new in 1975 for the princely sum of £231.00!
My old man had a 500cc BSA Gold Star single- now that really was a $ugger to start!
Ferryman wrote:
Good old days. At 13 I started with a CZ, the clone of Jawa. A mate had a twin 2 stroke Victoria Bergmeister, with all the sheetmetal. I could not win.
Later I had the 500 cc single BSA, cost you a knee when starting the beast.
Like a cheapskate, I bought 2 single coil packs for the SE rather than the bracketed version. Only problem is, the HT/ cylinder lead numbering is identical on each (1,2,3,4), which isn't a great help!
Do I just wire them as per the published RAVE picture?
The input plugs look identical in every respect so can't see any issue there.
Thanks in advance
Mark
You could get in touch with Doug Taylor. He certainly does collection/ delivery in UK, so don't see why France would be an issue (at a cost of course!). If it's exhaust chroming you're after, you might be out of luck as most electroplaters won't touch them due to the contaminants messing up their expensive chemicals!
http://dougtaylor.co.uk/contact/
If you're after electroplating aluminium etc then Teign Metals might be able to do something. Not sure if they do "one off" stuff though
http://www.teignmetalfinishes.co.uk/contact-us/index.html
True Tony. I have restored an old 200 Zundapp, Old Jawa trials bike, very old Ural as well as the more common Triumphs, BSA's (used to have a thing about triples) and much Jap stuff from late 60's to 80s.
Ferryman wrote:
Good plan, after all a ZF is too lumpy to fiddle with woodblocks etc.
There doesn't exist a classic bike with model p38 btw?
Well, he might, but then you won't have to worry about the rattly cam follower :)
It was a premature promise anyway. Searched all the usual places and can't find the Jiffy bag with them in. No doubt they'll turn up when I don't need them...
Chris and Sloth- when I find my bag of valves I'll drop you a couple in the post. I vaguely remembering ordering 2 and receiving 20 for the same price.
Finally given in and ordered a gearbox/ transmission adaptor for my trolley jack. Always used my hydraulic motorbike lift in the past, but it's starting to look a bit secondhand as it doesn't like asymmetric loads. No point in ruining it as I suspect I'm going back to classic bike restoration in the future 'cos they take up less space and don't use so much welding stuff!
Decided to finish the washer wiper job yesterday, by replacing both headlight wiper motors (and installing LED bulbs and replacing cracked OS headlight unit) and getting the rear and headlight washers working. Another simple 10 minute job- not!
2 pumps U/S and only had 1 spare so thought I'd get rear washer working to go with new wiper motor. No chance- even with new pump, no fluid from rear jet so now have to find my packet of spare non-return valves and fiddle around behind trim panel to replace.
Moved to "easy access" (non battery side) headlight and, of course one of the encapsulated studs was rusted and stopped being encapsulated and just revolved. Eventually got a Dremel to it and cut it off, then a session with Araldite to encapsulate a new bolt.
3 hour wait to cure so popped out OS foglight to get to washer pumps. Same problem- rusted screws at top of light so another fun time getting those out.
Cold and fed up after 6 hours of pointlessness, tested pumps then gave up for the day.
This quick fix is taking forever. Still, new coil packs arrive today so can get back to electronics- except of course, my mates Ranger is moving in to workshop today for a clutch change so have to collect up all my scattered tools and replace them in the cabinets so that I can keep track of them. They have a habit of "walking" if I don't keep them in their allocated clips etc.
You could try sticking a 5W-40 in there for the winter
Shouldn't cause too many problems in our climate. Don't buy the cheap stuff though.
It does retain moisture/ condensate which can accelerate corrosion,
Ceramic coating looks much tricker though :)
Spot on Gilbertd- that's what I was fishing for :)
What oil are you running it on Adam?
Thank you BlackBox for the Nano Evo!
Without it, replacing the rear wiper motor and getting the arm back on in the correct orientation to park would have involved much sprinting backwards and forwards to try to catch the tailgate at the right time to stop the bloody motor in the right place.
Lovely to do it from the comfort of the drivers seat!
Still have to work out why it runs happily from the output of the nano and shows that switch is operating and parking correctly from the input of the Nano though, but doesn't work from the switch itself??!
Edit- it does now work from the switch- needed to park itself correctly!
Tomorrow, the drivers door latch swap- waiting for the STC3064 handle repair kit to arrive on Tuesday before I can do the handle swap. If time, might just swap to the "correct" ignition switch assy which I've just cleaned and serviced (so that'll probably never work again!)
It does a real time count (which autorecords if you have latest firmware) engine running in Instrument mode.