Given it a drink of 20L super and half a bottle of injector cleaner. Now to try a quick run to town and see what happens with temps and things. Try to burn some rust off the brakes...
Here!
Started, locks don't work, brakes are poor (discs corroded. HTF did it pass the MOT?)
Now to crawl all over it...
Well, it genuinely has a driver 'cos he's just phoned to say here at 1230. Sounds promising, but it could still fall off the transporter or something...
I'm thinking it's HOW it mutes the audio might be the issue. Only guessing though.
Be an expensive punt for her if it'd didn't work :)
Have you got nav on yours Sloth (can't remember)?
So, with the imminent arrival (yeah, right!) of my new car and a "What would you like for Christmas that you haven't already bought yourself?" request, my thoughts turned to putting in a Bluetooth Grom like this:
http://gromaudio.co.uk/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-652.html#Description
The system in the car is a gold plated High End Alpine with remote CD changer- an even rarer than usual working currently DSP amp to drive the centre dash etc extra speakers like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331926540611?
and with Carin III Nav.
Until the amp goes pop I want to keep the standard audio and nav, when I'll probably do something with an Android unit similar to Marty's, but anyway
The Grom kit says only compatible with units without nav and Grom themselves are unable to tell me why or guarantee that it'll work as they show it as non-compatible.
Anyone fitted one with the nav system successfully?
Will do Chris. If "rolling" at 0530 should be here by 1100, but I've heard it all before!
I vaguely remember seeing a post somewhere where it was suggested that using a combination of the 2025 and the next size up in thickness, 2032, made for a better contact. Bonus of greater capacity as well.
Latest news- the transporter is now "rolling" as of 0535. Of course, it was "rolling" last time, when in fact it wasn't, so we'll see.
It will be, one way or another Marty. Tomorrow will be a watershed day. It'll be moving somewhere for sure!
In a nutshell, probably will be drained.
You shouldn't have to have BECM re-programmed just 'cos your battery goes flat though. I seem to remember from "the other site" that you've had key and fob issues that Marty sorted for you, so hopefully the worst you'll have to deal with is re-syncing your fobs.
I know your car's still laid up with overheating issues, but it's never too late to put a battery maintainer on it if you can.
mymysteri wrote:
Just because I am new to the forum and figure you guys should know: If a RR with a "new" battery is parked- say- for a month- should the battery be drained? I am concerned with the BECM needing to be re-programmed after all of the nightmare I went through a few months ago. Anyone?
Well, for a start you'll need to get stuck into:
Advisory notice item(s)
nearside rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
offside rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
offside front Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
nearside front lower Tie bar/rod has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)
offside front Tie bar/rod has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)
Service history and a huge pile of bills/ receipts would be nice. At 137k miles you'll want to see key items that have been replaced.
Looks tidy (steering wheel needs a refurb). Spare wheel/ gas tank cover looks a bit nasty. Looks like it has 1 1/2 tail pipes. Obviously sunroof!
And it's green so you'll blend nicely into the background
Looks like you're going to win the fastest photo first at this rate though Gilbertd!
Thanks for thinking of me Shep. Your petrol costs would probably be even more than mine if I did the tow.
It's fascinating once you get in to the maths Simon.
Chuck in a few freezing nights then see how that battery holds up!
Sending a pm Chris...
That'll be me then :)
Don't have a capable trailer, so would have to hire one though.
I'm also out of pocket having paid the Shiply fees and deposit to the transport company (they had to collect the car, which they've done)
Only economically viable solution is train up there (half a days travel) and drive it back
Morat wrote:
If only you knew a Range Rover enthusiast with a car trailer and towing experience... who could maybe undercut shiply by a couple quid in return for overnight accommodation...
By the side of the road Gordon?
Relations with the transport company will be broken by the time I have to resort to picking car up myself and I don't anticipate they'll be amenable to me servicing it in their yard.
That is assuming it's not already in a container on its way to Africa and I've been royally scammed :)
gordonjcp wrote:
Change the oil up there.
Cam breaking in and coolant system health are separate things unfortunately Tony. Cam break-in is about running and holding varying rpm up to 2500 for around 20 mins. (depending on cam grinders instructions). It's pretty much about mechanical abrasion and is temperature agnostic.
It's a quandary though, given the need to cool the engine adequately while you're doing it. No straight answer, I'm afraid.