At that "Oh sh!t, what have I done stage now..
Her to me:
"What the feck have you done to the bottom lawn?!"
Me to her:
"That's nothing, you want to see the incomprehensibly large hole I've dug round the back"
It's nice to have a break. I'm not emotionally suited to being a construction worker!
I've found some sprockets which should do the trick in terms of quality. I've never had a problem with Bearmach OEM:
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR2958-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-oem.html
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR7375-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERC7929-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-oem.html
Don't tell me- the prize is....
Winner gets to host next Summer Camp :)
Current one looks like this. More space than the new one will have, but more draughty too!
Tony- I've had a bit more of a think about this and if the diameter of the new sprocket is smaller than the old, the pitch centres will be closer together on the new as well which is why the new chain sits higher (if indeed it does and it's not an illusion).
Good practice says use new sprockets with new chains so I'm not going to suggest otherwise, and giving out advice on forums where you can't back it up is just wrong, but if I were building that engine, I'd use the original sprockets as they look like a much "happier" combination with the new chain.
I thought really hard before posting this as the last thing you need is advice that goes against all good practice, so I've left it as an "if I were doing this".
I'm thinking about it Spiggy, but we're already hitting shillet (decomposed granite) which forms the base of everything here on Dartmoor, so I fear it'll require major mining plant to dig the required hole rather than the mini-digger.
Just have to be content with a 2 post lift if I can persuade it to work after a long hibernation
SpiggyTopes wrote:
Nice project!
Are you going to build a pit in the floor?
It's interesting how the new chain looks like it's sitting much deeper (more fully engaged) on the old sprocket than on the new sprocket. Chain also looks to have less slack, which is the opposite of what you'd expect. Maybe that's just an optical illusion though.
The threads and pictures of Marty and Ferry's shiny engine builds have got me slightly jealous, so I thought I'd share my latest build.
Not an engine, but a precursor- my new workshop!
The barn where I am at the moment is great, but
- It's not mine
- I have to drive there
- The friend who lets me use the barn is probably getting fed up with me spreading my stuff all over the place
- Its a bugger keeping everything clean and me warm in winter
so having a small mountain of earth up the side of the house it seems to make perfect sense to move that mountain and replace it with a workshop.
Today, the fun begins- the groundworks
Have to move this:
To here:
Using these:
In theory, should have the mountain moved today. Hopefully the bits I don't want to move will stay where they are until I can get the raft and retaining walls poured
Fingers crossed!
It's looking good Marty.
You do realise that you're now going to be forced to detail the entire engine bay and all the ancillaries before you drop that lump of precision shininess into it, don't you?
:)
Page 5 of this document explains it in a far more precise way than I could!
http://www.tayloredge.com/reference/Mechanical/SilentChain2.pdf
Ferryman wrote:
What you say about slop in a chain being eliminated by centrifugal force is new to me, I can imagine it but always thought it was not recommended.
Came second in the auction for the 64000 mile blown head gasket Vogue, but the tophatted Vogue SE in Norfolk is back on eBog having been repaired. That's the next one in my sights...
I reckon he can get oil filters if he doesn't mention the words Range Rover!
Here's a French site that supplies and also conveniently lists all the other cars the Bosch 0451 104 014 fits:
http://www.24piecesauto.fr/1156130
I'll bet Marty has a knob!!!
We don't roll in glitter- just bullshit ;)
What Gilbertd ^ says!
My lpg 4.6 also quite happily steams away from the exhaust which worried me when I first got it a couple of years ago. No coolant loss though.
As well as checking your carpet in the footwell for damp, you could do a sniff test to see if there are hydocarbons in the coolant.
I take it you're on single point lpg? There have been cases where corrosion inside the vapouriser has led to coolant leaks where you can't see them.
The thrust side (both banks) is the starter motor side of the engine.
I usually just space the rings at 120 degree (ie equal) spacings. The rings are free to rotate when the engine runs anyway, but starting out with no gaps overlapping is good practice.
As for the end-float on cam, what was the clearance with the old thrust plate and new gears/ chain? As you say, with these inverted tooth chains it's best to use new chain and gears together as, a bit like those old Variomatic transmissions, the chain rises on the teeth under centrifugal force to take out slack without affecting timing. Hooked or worn teeth or chain will affect that.
Ferryman wrote:
Fitting pistons. From the text in the manual it is still not clear to me where to position the ring gaps, "position compressionrings with gaps on opposite side of pistion between gudgeon pin and RH side of piston- viewed from front of piston". This should mean that one gap comes on the LH side of piston?>
As for the cam gear I use the old camsprocket again wit a new chain (I know I know, should not mix old with new) for the following reason: half a year ago I bought a new set of sprockets and chain so I thought I gould use it again with the new cam. Bought a new thrustwasher (only original LR available) and measured the axial play of the cam with the 'new' sprocket with my feelergauge, it was 0.5 mm which is too much. With the old sprocket I measured 0.25 mm so the old sprocket it's gonna be, even the chain is not sloppy with it.
I wonder where it's been for the last week or so?
Well, if it were me.....
I like the V8 Devs way of measuring preload. Does the same thing as RPI only without bits of welding wire, just by using feelers under the pedestals with pushrods free spinning.
First thing to bear in mind is that the whole point of having hydraulic tappets is that you don't have to be accurate, the tappets do that for you. As long as you stay in the range and don't either have too much free play with the tappets at full expansion, or too little with the tappets empty, they'll just do their stuff.
Anyhow, get together a set of pushrods that are as close to the same length as you can. Use the V8 Devs method of checking preload. (Pedestal gap measurement x 1.6 = Pre-load at follower).
Shim rockers with equal sized shims to suit. Job done.
If you want to get really (poss pointlessly) precise, don't forget that you can buy shim steel in A4 sheets and cut out shims with a pair of scissors and a hole punch, in 1 thou increments (from 1 to 10 thou naturally- anything bigger requires special tools) :)
Oh and by the way, if you're going to cling wrap the block, and it's in your house garage rather than workshop, let it breathe!
When are you back from next trip? I'm happy to pop up and play clearances with you
Marty- I've just had a look at the RPI instructions (interesting- hadn't looked at these in detail) and I think you might be introducing a "fudge factor" into your measurements, which could potentially mean that you'll find it hard to get consistently repeatable results. I've picked out the problem area in bold:
"The following information assumes that the following components are in good condition - rockers, pushrods, valve guides and valve stems. a clearance of .020" to a maximum of 0.60" must exist between the spring loaded pushrod seat in the top of the lifter, and the underside of the retaining circlip. This check should be made with the valve gear fully assembled, and the lifter empty of oil, positioned on the lowest point, on the back of the camshaft. The simplest way to measure the gap is by using round wire. Use a piece .020" for the low clearance check, and a piece of .060" for the high clearance check. Check all 16 lifters individually."
You've primed your lifters and also they're skating on a raft of assembly lube. Both of these will give a variable cushion. The RPI instructions are based around a dry build (actually a pre assembly with only a squirt of light oil on touching surfaces). I'm going to pop over to V8 Devs site and have a look at what they say and will come back in a bit...
You can always swap around some cam followers to try to get the preload more equal. As nothing's yet run together you can play around with follower combinations as much as you like...
EDIT- did you "roll the pushrods to make sure they're all straight? They nearly always are, but worth a check
Leave it open with valley gasket off and drizzle lovingly when you return!
Tape some clear polythene or something over all the open bits, or just wrap the entire engine on the stand in polythene to keep any crap/ airborne contaminants out. No need to seal the polythene to make it airtight or anything. Don't use cloth, old sheets or anything cos they attract damp.