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It could just be stiction from the assembly lube Ferry. As far as I know there are no published figures for turning torque of a bare crank. It's unlikely that, even if overtorqued, the caps would deform. More likely that the bolts would over stretch.
Did you have the main bearing housings line bored when the block was machined?
I usually pre-assemble the crank and conrods on the bench using the new bearings, light oil, torque the old bolts/ studs and plastigauge all the big ends to ensure correct running clearances. Then repeat the process with the bare crank (without the con rods!) in the block, again plastigauging all of the new main bearings. After plastigauging, put bare crank back into block with light oil and old bolts and it should turn easily by hand.
Only then do I put the crank back in with assembly lube and new bolts.
If you're not confident that your torque wrench is accurate, why not pop down to your machine shop and get it checked against one of their (hopefully very accurate) torque wrenches? I have a "master" digital torque wrench of known good calibration (like Marty's in his build porn pictures) which I use to calibrate and set my "clicky" wrenches, just because I prefer working with clicky wrenches.
If after checking everything as above you have bearing clearance problems or when assembled with light oil still can't turn crank, pop it (assembled) back to your machinists and get a second opinion from them.
Link to Plastigauge:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastigauge-precision-bearing-clearance-Gauge-Auto-Motorcycle-engines-kit-car-/300895468211?
EDIT- you could, in addition, check with Engineers Blue to see if you have any ovality of the journals, but that's highly unlikely if you've had the crank machined.
EDIT Again- just read back through your build and you didn't have crank machined. Are you sure it's straight? Mount it in the block using just the outer caps and check with a dial gauge on all the other main journals.

Leave as is!
Older gaskets used to require a re-torque after a couple of heat cycles, but modern composites don't.
Give your sphincter a rest :)

Martyuk wrote:

So the question I have for tonight is... should I go back over the head bolts in the morning with the torque wrench at 70lb/ft as it will have had a few hours overnight to have sat and settled? Or do I just leave it now they've been done up?

Nah, floors have got paint on!
You do have to worry about it finding its way into electrical connectors. You get a marvellous electro-chemical reaction and they go green and horrible very quickly.

Morat wrote:

My only question now is: If coolant has corrosion inhibitors, do I have to worry about the floors rotting out?

I think Morat lives at the top of the Yorkshire Alps. Either that or it's just what we hardy southerners call a light frost :)

OldShep56 wrote:

Snow?? Where??

There's nothing wrong with using 10W/40 Morat
The recommended oil in the handbook for ambient -10 to +50C is ACEA A1/ ACEA A2 10W/40, 10W/50 or 10W/60

Morat wrote:

I'd better get the oil changed at the same time, I've been topping up with 10/40. FFS.

You can get them from your local pet shop- puppy training pads!

Ferryman wrote:

RutlandRover wrote:

My passenger side footwell is completely sodden with clear water at the moment. Need to find a way to dry it out.>
It's not just the carpet, the rubber insulation undrneath almost does not dry. Try to get some (don't now the English for it) carpet that soaks oil, often used in garages. Place it under the carpet and it soaks most of the moisture.

As long as you like- you can't oversoak them.
Couple of days would be good

Martyuk wrote:

I don't know how much of the list I will get done before I go away, but I will hopefully get the heads and rocker gear on before I go, so I will put the rockers in a nice 10W40 marinade. How long should they soak for before putting them in the block?

Avoiding Br!tpart (you'd need to ensure the Indy's weren't quoting to fit their parts), the hub kits (Allmakes) are £175 + vat, the Timken bearing set is £76 + vat
As RR says though, a beefy press is required and I think you'll be hard pushed to find a shop that is prepared to mess around and throw more labour time pressing hubs apart, when a complete hub swap is quicker and easier (for them!)
EDIT- Marty beat me to the button!

I think an oil leak is the least of its problems Shep. I can't imagine much of a market for a baby blue P38 with clashing interior :)

How about this for a colour then?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-LAND-ROVER-RANGEROVER-VOGUE-AUTO-BLUE-/122215219119?
I'm pretty sure that's not a factory colour!

It's looking good Marty. This is the most fun and rewarding part of any rebuild, so don't forget to take a bit of time out to enjoy it!
If you're going to be doing the above list before you go away, you may as well drop your new tappets into a bath of whatever engine oil you're planning on using now, and leave them to marinade gently. It'll save you from that Doh! moment when you go to install them and realise that you haven't soaked them and have to wait.

Now this one has possibilities.
Would have to do head(s) and fit an lpg system, but that mileage makes it a good reseller
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232136716512?
These people, however, must have a sense of humour
http://cars.trovit.co.uk/listing/2001-land-rover-range-rover.H16q1b1_iO1C

I wasn't sure that the .5 oz would be enough for 20 studs hence looking for the larger pack!
Did you buy the older ARP kit with the 8 "spare" studs? More studs but cheaper, which I've never really understood, and a different set of torque figures. 70lbft sounds like a good number to shoot for.

ARP used to give alternative torque values for straight 30 weight oil but, now they've moved on from that to reap the benefits of another revenue stream.
Cheapest I've found after a quick search is
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-ARP-ULTRA-TORQUE-LUBE-1-69-oz-PN-100-9909-/282034745564?
The $1000 dollar question is...
Stump out the money on what is going to end up a £4000 plus build, or use a 50/50 mix of ATF and moly-lube on the head nuts and washers, which is what I've used in the past on high performance aluminium head builds.
That's before you even get into the debate about what torque to actually use.
ARP say 100 lbft in their instructions
http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf
Popular opinion across the forums says less!

The above are all from hard won bitter experience building Triumph Stag V8 engines. Iron block, aluminium (crap LM25 aluminium) heads etc and coolant leaks make every thread into aluminium a seized/ stripped nightmare

Reducing torque values by 20% when using SS and anti- seize is the rule of thumb.
Worth running a thread chaser (not a tap!) down the holes and giving them a blast of air to clear out the crap that builds up at the bottom of the holes below the end of the old stud/ bolt as well

Chuck the shafts in the freezer or hit them with a good blast from a CO2 extinguisher as well as heating your pedestals. Around 150 C in the oven should do it

Martyuk wrote:

What temperature is good to bake your rocker pedestals at? I didn't see cooking instructions on them ;-)
I'm going to get the micrometer out soon and compare the old ones with the new. If they measure up ok, then I might try chamfering the ends of the new shafts to see if it is a case of its just catching. It shouldn't affect the shaft at all as it's right at the end past the split pin, so not going to affect oil ways or anything like that.

This is the stuff I use:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Putoline-Ceramic-Grease-100g-anti-seize-anti-corrosion-40-C-1500-C-/350879023416?
The logic behind using it is that it's inert. Copper grease introduces yet another dissimilar metal into the mix (stainless, copper, aluminium), increasing the potential for electrolytic corrosion.
Don't use on your ARB studs though. Use the ARB lube supplied.
With the exception (again) of ARB, SS fixings require different torque values as well. Don't have the numbers in my head, but will try and dig out the conversion factors from somewhere

Martyuk wrote:

Ceramic anti seize... might have to get that, as the bolt kit I bought for the engine is all A2 stainless. I'm guessing there's a difference between using ceramic anti seize and standard copper grease?

It's true- from the handbook:
"SUPERLOCKING
If the vehicle is ’superlocked’ (with either the
handset, or the key), the doors CANNOT be
unlocked or opened from inside the vehicle.
For this reason DO NOT superlock the vehicle
with passengers inside."

Ferryman wrote:

Can't you lift a sillbutton from the inside of a superlocked car? That means that you can lock in people and no way to get out? I don't believe that.