no10chris wrote:

Problem I have is cars up against a fence, and can't open the doors, might investigate getting the door panel off, fingers crossed

As you're into the car now, why not just sling a chain onto it and drag it away from fence?

If you do go down the SS bolts route, make sure you use ceramic anti-seize on them. I tend to use it on any dissimilar metals to stop corrosion and furring.
It would be interesting to mic up the new shafts compared to an unworn part of the old ones to see if the blue bag ones were the same size

I'd suggest doing it before putting rocker covers and upper inlet manifold on. There's nothing like the warm glow of confidence you get when you see oil coming through both banks of rockers when spinning it up to get oil pressure.
I'd pull the supply plugs to the coil packs too, just to make sure there are no spurious sparks flying around

Martyuk wrote:

Given the inlet manifold situation on the Thor, covering the rocker covers, is it worth me doing that, before even putting the rocker covers, upper inlet manifold on? or just fit the rocker covers, inlet manifold, and spin it over to get oil up there and keep an eye on the oil pressure light?

Too easy!
Much more fun to spin it over on the bench :)

Ferryman wrote:

It came to mind because a friend of mine is a plasterer, he has a giant 2 speed drill to mix his stucco in a tub. But might be better to wait and turn the key with plugs out...

There seems to be some listed on eBog NL.
It'd have to be a pretty beefy drill to spin over the entire engine! May as well wait until you've got the engine back together, flex plate on and do it with the starter motor. You can watch the oil flowing out of rockers etc then :)

This is the assembly lube I use Tony
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60228-millers-oils-competition-assembly-lube.aspx
I believe that Piper re-package it for inclusion in their cam kits as well.
Only place I don't use assembly lube is on pistons/ bores on the premise that you actually want the rings/ bores to start to bed in as fast as possible rather than to protect them from friction. For those I just use good old dino 20/50 mineral
EDIT- I also pack the oil pump with good ole Vaseline. Helps with initial oil pick up on first start. Unlike the "old" Rover V8's you can't spin the oil pump over with a drill to get oil pressure up before 1st start.

Thanks Shep. Unfortunately it's a GEMS. I'm going for a Bosch.
Tidy car though, and with a bit of tweaking would make a good sub £1500 RR

Why not remove the bung above oil pressure switch and install a sender for an oil pressure gauge?
The internal gauge itself only needs to be temporary as you can always work out how to wire it in/ interface to your android tablet later and an actual display of oil pressure is a lovely thing to have, especially with a brand new engine.
It'll give you a nice comfortable feeling to monitor when you spin it over to get oil pressure before your initial start, during the cam break in cycle, and for your first forays out with the new motor.

The boat's the same age as me and in a lot better condition!
I've never really thought in depth about how the single prop designs would have been engineered to give instant forward/ aft changes. Two engines and a clutched transfer box. Very elegant and "proper" engineering.
Nowadays of course, all done with azipods and variable incidence props. Not half as much fun!

I know it's always an embarrassment buying diesel in case anyone you know sees you

I enjoy my periodic trips to the local supplier with my Jerry cans for 50 litres of "Red". Feels kind of naughty and cool at the same time, especially as I'm probably the only customer they have that actually uses it legitimately. Bit like visiting a Speakeasy in the days of Prohibition.
Best of all, there's no toxic leftovers to get rid of.
Once it's been used in the parts washer I put it through a filter and then it gets burned in the tractor and heater

I allow my other half to use my conveniently kitchen located parts washer for dishes etc when not cleaning engine components :)

Can't see how they would work Chris, but if you feel good wearing them that's the main thing

Me too- I have to deal with a lot of rusty bolts/ nuts and I haven't broken one of these yet.
Unfortunately Deal of the day has now sold out...

BTW, when you buy components, avoid Br!tpart. Go for OEM (not Land Rover) quality and you won't go far wrong

I'd add to your list:
Brake service, replace pads as req'd, maybe even a full fluid flush
Grease every nipple. Pay particular attention to all propshaft UJs. Any play- replace
I'd replace the water pump as well, but I'm hyper vigilant about coolant circulation
Wheel balance and tracking
Main battery and ground cables- clean connectors and chassis mounting points
EAS compressor rebuild
Don't know anyone in High Wycombe area unfortunately, but by the time you've worked through your list you'll have much more of an idea about what makes your particular Range tick though!

I can do body/ spray stuff, though I work with cellulose based paint rather than the modern 2 pack or water based systems.
I think that getting a decent finish will be a problem. The environment needs to be warm and dust free with low humidity and I don't think your workshop in February will be easy to get into that state. There's also the issue of colour matching as it's really hard to get a metallic type finish to blend with its surroundings so you'd probably have to paint the whole panel to get an "invisible" repair.
How big is the chip?

Ta!
Bit of light reading between P3 and Qualifying for me then.

Makes it a bit more expensive at around £920.00 fitted and certified, but I suppose you have the pleasure of working with new clean parts.
My insurance company do insist on the certificate, and to be honest, I'd probably want it checked over by my local accredited tech anyway.
It's not that I don't have faith in my own workmanship (I can do a lot better than the RIP install quality on my current car), but just to be independently told "it's right"

I've not yet seen any Vogue SE's that have the same specs!
Wood trim varies right through to Piano Black, some have matching gear knob, others don't, some even have what is supposedly a unique factory wheel fit

I'm thinking I might widen my search net.
If I can pick up a non-lpg 4.6 Vogue for the right price, I could just do my own LPG install using something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-2001-HSE-BRG-Multi-Point-LPG-KIT-/172323900800?
How hard is it to get them certified if installed by a non lpg certified tech (AKA me!)?