When I bought my massive white/blue elephant a few years ago I felt a great paranoia about how unreliable these P38's were known to be..

Over the past few months I've been replacing components on the almost daily basis "no joke" as it seems if I replace one thing something immediately falls right the hell off..

For example..

A few weeks ago She plummeted to the bumpstops due to a bad compressor, no biggie I thought so a rebuilt unit was fitted...

Literally 2 days later another "beep beep" EAS fault and it turned out I needed to replace the valveblock O rings due to a massive leak emerging from one of my O rings lol so I did that and she was fine for another week until I get to my current issue!

Which I hope to be fixed tomorra when a new sensor comes!

I won't mention the suspension bushes that disintegrated or the headliner that dropped when i had the sunroof open and filled the car with orange dust that got into my eyes and throat!

So while snot sneezing and tearing up like a right bastard, I was blind - good times...

The alternator and all the idlers failed..

Blend motors went to shit..

Sunroof pissed water in "fixed"

The list goes on

BECM fail..

pollen filters leaking "fixed"

Seized VCU

Whiny diff(s)

Rear calliper's that seized, and a pad that flew out and rendered the rear left caliper inoperative so I had to drive home with 1 working caliper.

Exhaust blow "fixed"

etc

Battery failed straight after I replaced the suspension.....

LOL

I seem to be bonding with this thing the more it breaks the more I like it!

A great distraction, I don't even get mad when it breaks!

Perhaps I've gone mad..

Everyone that knows me frequently remarks that it is cursed!

Maybe it is supernatural!

Anyway..

Back to reality.

H

Good to know lol

Ok cheers.

After spending 20mins just fiddling with it..

One thing i've noticed is..

On one end of the scale is reads 1.18 however if I cycle the arm back and forth this changes to 0.69 if it is moved again it reads back to 1.18 kOhms

Odd..

One end of the scale is teetering between 1.18 and 0,69 - The opposite end of the scale is steady at 2.45 kOhms.

Thanks.

The track in mine reads 1.27 on the 20k scale

would a low resistance be an issue on one of these sensors do you think?

one end on the track is 1.25 and the opposite end is 2.45 it doesn't go near 0 at any point

The only time it goes to near 0 is on the 2000k setting on my meter..

Ahh cheers.

So i'm assuming the far left pin is one half or the track and the far right pin is the other?

or am I mistaken?

On the 2000 ohm setting it would go open circuit at around half way, if I switched my lead from the far right pin to the far left it would start reading again.

On the 20k Setting it would register 1.20 to 2.45 through it's travel. that is if I kept the common lead on the middle and positive lead on the right pin it doesn't go open circuit on the 20k scale

Hmm.

Hard to explain this!!! lol

One issue my car has is a "valve stuck" fault..

It says RH front i'm assuming it is RH from the drivers seat?

Or is it when you're looking at the car from the front?

The oddity is..

Using the 2000 scale on my Ohm meter, when the arm gets to this point...

Measuring the pin from the far right of my pic and the middle one, it gets to a point in its travel where it clicks slightly and goes open circuit, If I shift my common lead to the far left pin it continues to read etc 7

From this point it goes open circuit and I have to shift leads.

When on the 20k scale it is quite smooth it ranges from 1.20 to 2.45

On the 2000 scale it is a tad jumpy...

Am i barking up the wrong tree?

H

PS

That is the front right "as you sit in the drivers seat"

I do hope that is the "right front" lol

Right,,

Thanks.

I'm looking online at some sensors, are they all the same for the front? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lopbinte-Height-Assembly-Suspension-ANR4686/dp/B08B5TB8V8/ref=sr_1_12?crid=JW5D28CG4TPI&dchild=1&keywords=range+rover+p38+air+suspension&qid=1602525119&sprefix=p38+sus%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-12

ANR4686?

refitted a new driver pack and tested all the solenoids all ok..

Only issue is she's still faulting, I do notice it is only when it rains and she hits a puddle!

Same stuck closed fault. .

Could it be Height sensor related?

Looks like a pucker P38!

Don't see many 400k P38s

She'll probably see 1 mil before long lol

Right.

Thanks Richard

smart looking motor that

It is no secret that my paint is slowly deteriorating, and before anyone says it is because you polish it too much, I use Wax mainly so no degradation ;)

The reason I ask is how the hell do you remove the plastic lower sill covers

These things

Another issue is my drivers side one is bulging out from the body near the front mudflap for whatever reason and it looks rather odd..

Next up i'm it a windscreen out job to do the roof properly?

Thanks

Jack the chassis up to get the weight off the springs, should be easy enough using spring compressors

I Did all the brake lines on mine and don't recall it being all that difficult to bleed..

The rear caliper bleeding procedure I did has worked on a few P38's not just mine lol

8k in 6 weeks.

I haven't done 5k yet in 8 months!

Start her up and leave the door or tailgate open to allow the compressor to pressurise the tank..

After 10mins slam the door and it should rise from it's arse..

Good work BTW.

I bled just the rears on mine when i replaced both calipers/discs/pads.

I removed the bleed nipple from the new callipers and fitted them to the car, I swapped the line from the old calipers to the new and the fluid started to pour out, once the bubbles cleared i screwed the nipple in and job's a good un..

Make sure the reservoir has enough fluid in it.

After a complete shitstorm of random EAS faults regarding the FR solenoid not operating correctly..

I pulled the front height sensors "in the pissing rain" and checked them, they worked flawlessly throughout all their travel so happy with that, all the plugs were stellar aswell..

A quick blast with some Contact cleaner helped dislodge any crap...

My attention was then turned to the drive pack, I had already ordered one from a 4x4 bloke on Ebay CNSS 4x4 I believe, this required the valveblock to come out..

And what a ballache that is, the last LPG installer fitted the reducer around 1 inch from the EAS pipes, so the vape has to be removed.

All pipes out and the new drive pack installed..

I got 90% of the way though before I realised I hadn't plugged the cable in underneath the block, so the bastard thing came back out, all plugged in and pipes pushed in..

Started the mota and left my stopwatch running for 3mins

After 3mins I slammed the door and the car arose from the bump stops, which by now look like pancakes.

A quick testdrive was in order I gingerly took her up and down a duel carriageway hoping to not hear the dreaded "beep beep" of the car telling me it has yet another fault..

All was well..

even exiting a roundabout I had some twatty boy racer in a corsa come up the side of my on a roundabout and cut me up, the wanka..

A poke of the S and some right pedal saw the old P38 float past, amazing seeing that I was barely going past 3k and he must of been screaming the shizzzle out of his corsa, all done up it was too with 1/4 inch or ground clearance and KFC bucket rims.

Hopefully my EAS stays happy for a little while!

I replaced mine quite easily.

Coolant was pissing out of them mind you..

A long screw driver and some patience.

How do ya go about doing that?