Nexen Rodians on my old bus..

They seem to work well, better than the Goodyear Wranglers on there before..

Wearing well too!

Morat wrote:

Super, thank you!
I shall start the PlusGas treatment in advance.
I have had the britpart ones on for a good long while..

if they can sand my 6"6 18st frame, then i'd say they're quality!

Nice Work..

Any shots of the car itself?

The filter has a very fine mesh inside, mine did it's job..

I've got a HP24 on the shelf I rebuilt a few months ago, but its finding the time to fit it...

The current one is holding stong at the moment!

If i hadn't ripped the filter apart i'd never of known lol

Oh well!

Full of swarf and particles!

I did a simple fluid drain and refill in 2017 at 124k now at 127k i did a fluid and filter change..
the last filter change before me was 2003!!
The filter came apart with a pair of pliers..

Hmm..

I believe standard is 95 which will be E10 However Superunleaded 98 will stay E5 IIRC.

I've never used leaded fuels but my Granddad did! lol

Being I run Gas and petrol i have been reading up on E10 and I stumbled on this

These stories are but 4 or so days apart from each other lol

https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1308619/uk-fuel-pump-e10-petrol-changes-engine-damage
https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1310426/uk-fuel-e10-petrol-classic-car-damage-rubber

And this..

https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1313318/classic-cars-uk-fuel-e10-petrol-changes-damage

I reiterate the title!!

I too run 10w60 Castrol or ELF..

The RV8 was designed to run a 20w50 originally, nowt much internally changed apart from the Crank Driven Oil pump, which is far more efficient at pumping thicker oil than the Dizzy driven one of old..

10w40 is recommended for Fuel economy and emissions reasons, not necessarily for engine protection..

Cheers all.

I'd add a "whats new" button..

And an interior - chassis - body - for sale -

Sections!!

I've bought a 70mm and I' not really sure whether a 70mm can be used.

The idler I'm replacing is

Any ideas?

The idler below the AC compressor.

romanrob wrote:

Guys - you should see David's "home garage"...it is a sight to behold - awesome. David, watch out or you may find yourself hosting the southern rr.pub meet
Where be this Home Page?!

It's doing great David!

When i press the tailgate button the door locks dance Lock/unlocked.

Also occasionally it locks the rear doors.

Which is odd.

Right i fitted a new 2nd hand unit and the idle is back to how it should be..

I've taken my old one apart "with a hammer" and have noted a few things.....

1 The air restrictor thingy has 2 bearings the upper most one is a needle roller bearing, mine had seized solid, due to corrosion..

Spraying contact cleaner in there might release any crap in there, but it will only sit and seep through this bearing, probably only washing out the grease in the rollers..

You'd probably be better off spraying a release agent in there instead of contact cleaner, from my observations

H

It is also sometimes only locking the rear doors when the button is pressed?

Would it be the drivers door lock? #

I have one Marty rebuilt would it be worth fitting it?

I just crank wheel nuts up with a 1/2 bar.

Beautiful job!

Anyone had this, just noticed mine is doing this occasionally..

Oddly only after the car has "A either been running or "B" has the key in the ignition..

If i removed the key and press the tailgate button it'll lock/unlock once, and then be fine for the repeated times I open the tailgate!

Odd..

Anyone had the door locks lock/unlock when you press the tailgate button?