thanks for that @Gilbertd I'll have to give that a look I'm sure you've mentioned that before some where

thats what I was thinking so I've removed the fuse and now the snow not melting on the screen I'm going to give the battery a full charge before weekend as mate is testing the fuses for me

yeah I've removed the rf filter wire it first thing my neighbour told me to do on it

not done the fues test today but did notice the snow and ice are not on the back screen unlike the rest of the windows did notice the snow melting when landing on the window so I've removed the rear window heater fuse
is it possible for it to be on even though the switch not pushed in or ignition switched off ?

Mukiwa wrote:

Symes wrote:

I thought if you remove the rear part of pump you need a depth dial gauge and adapter to reset it ---- not that everyday Joe is doing the job --- personally best left to someone like DES who do ours --- not cheap but fully serviced --- I'm sure they could do m51 pump

I did mine but I also did get a DTI gauge to correct the timing. Bloody fiddly as I'd never done it before. Diesel Jones charge around £6 - 700 for a FIP complete refurb, I couldn't afford it at the time so changed my own o-rings

it gets expensive to have a FIP reconditioned

thanks Symes

Symes wrote:

I know Tom @ roverviews got DSE pumps he got 2 manuals for breaking

is he on here or could you ask him for a price quote for me?

Symes wrote:

I thought if you remove the rear part of pump you need a depth dial gauge and adapter to reset it ---- not that everyday Joe is doing the job --- personally best left to someone like DES who do ours --- not cheap but fully serviced --- I'm sure they could do m51 pump

yes your right that's why I'm getting someone to do it who knows how as if I do it and f it up I'm going to have to source a new pump

Morat wrote:

I have General Grabber AT - a more road biased AT but still good in all seasons and very quiet indeed. Sadly I've worn the shoulders out with the front end shenanigans and they don't make them any more or I'd get another set in a second. I'll be watching this thread!

I think they making General Grabber AT3
https://www.4site4x4tyres.co.uk/tyre-search/details/2524/general-grabber-at3-25555r18

Mukiwa wrote:

karlos01 wrote:

mukiwa

I'm with you on that one been on some sites and given advice and told it not right
I've got 2.5td p38 and had some good pointers on here

That's fair enough, only do what you feel good with mate. Mines a 2.5 DSE. It worked well enough on mine for 16,000 miles 😁 and for a 2p mod the performance in pulling up the hill I live on from a cold start was so noticeable that SWMBO asked me what I'd done to the car.
I also cleaned out the inlet manifold of all the black oily residue and the intercooler. Don't do either of those near your wife's white patio paving. It's cost me an extension to cover up the mess :😭

P.S. The only other thing I can think of is if the ECU has the EGR programmed in and does it need removing? My Q7 did ahem. It doesn't now. The EGR delete kit is a posh version of my 2p (which is invisible).

I'm lucky as my neighbour has a p38 2.5td to he has had them all lol so we help each other out with bits
my egr was deleted by previous owner she was a bit neglected but I'm getting there with it slowly
I'm with you on intercooler clean as did mine over Christmas and you do notice the difference

yeah I had a flat spot yesterday but not tonight when tried it think it drops so much cause the air in system we tried it after half to a hour and got same reading as next doors

Once I've got the leak sorted out on my fuel injection pump I think I might of cracked it tested my start up to next doors my start up dropped to 8v on first turn over we both think because I'm getting air in the fuel line from pump when I start up it pushing or self bleeding the air out on start up and taking a lot of juice from battery

thanks @Marshall8hp I'll have a look at it tonight or when on break
StrangeRover wrote:

750cca sounds a tad low for the diesel unit, i'd be more inclined towards the MF-31 1000 for the diesel.

I have the 1000 in mine and she spins over like a top even after 4 weeks

battery I got on is exactly the same as my neighbour has on his diesel and he has no problem starting his 3ven when cod like this
did notice yesterday when went to start it thatthr starter has got a flat spot

thanks @Marshall8hp I'll have a look at it tonight or when on break

batteryis less than a year old on it it a 644 hankook

like the one circled neighbour has same on his and no problems he got it for me same place he got his

Marshall8hp wrote:

@karlos01 have a look at this chart.

Standard fuse chart

What you need to do, with everything off, and the BeCM asleep, is get your digital volt meter and probe the back of each fuse, where the metal tabs are bare on the back of the fuse. Set the DVM to milivolts and measure the voltage drop. The chat gives you the current being drawn for a given voltage drop and a given fuse rating. In this way you can quickly go over both fuse boxes and see where the current drain is.

GilbertD will be able to confirm, but the only drains you should see, and those minimal, are for the BeCM and the radio permanent live, and (maybe) for the key unlock receiver (for want of a better term).

thanks @Marshall8hp
I will get my mate who a auto electrician to go over it with me now we got a chart to work with
be a job when it not cold or raining
again thanks for your reply and help will keep you posted as to what we find

Marshall8hp wrote:

Is that the current going to the starter at idle? Major issue! However, if it is -30A as the meter tends to indicate, is it in fact the charge current going back into the battery? I don’t know about the diesel, but the V8 has a wire from the alternator to the starter, using the starter cable to link the alternator to the battery (why? Oh for god’s sake why?) on some of the early vehicles. Later ones seem to have been modified to take the alternator output directly to the battery.

sorry your right thats what coming from alternator I've got good voltage going to and from where it should be it just if I leave it for a day or two the battery don't seems to have a lot of guts in it and just needs a bit of a boost to get her going it been tested and showing it a good battery

earth on starter does look a bit rusty will have look and clean of it tomorrow

OK folks I'm a bit stumped I've got 2000 2.5td p38

get this going to alternator
and this is amperage to the starter all while ticking over BeCM is sleeping when turned off
admittedly I've got a leak on fuel injection pump that is letting air creep in the system when left standing
when I go to turn it over she big sluggish starting if leave the truck standing for few days and go to start it more like I've got flat battery if put jump leads on it fires up better
would anyone have a idea it would be

mukiwa

I'm with you on that one been on some sites and given advice and told it not right
I've got 2.5td p38 and had some good pointers on here