if the front discs are warped it vibrates or shudders thou the steering wheel . the rear one's pulse thou the peddle , usually noticed when rolling up to the lights with your foot lightly on the brakes . other than that you have to spin the disc and use a dial gauge manually .

if you clean up the rotary button contacts, make sure you re grease the contacts with electrical grease or it will wear away faster than you think. just an FYI.

pulsing peddle is most likely warped rear discs , need machining or replacing

it dose sound like a wheel bearing , fun to replace ,not.

steel rims are good in the bush , if you damage them you can flog it into shape with a hammer , not the alloys thou.

welcome to the pub

silly question
even if it only read close to the parameters, (thats a differant MAF) wouldn't the computer trim it in or just not read it .

Harv wrote:

As I understand it, our “modern” EFI engines run very close to ideal fuel/air mixtures already.

aren't today's engines tuned for emissions not power and economy (VW diesel gate) i think you can get great improvement if you tune for performance.

another thing you can do is check that all the pipe work is not touching the car as this can produce a resonance sound that can go though the car .

Marshall8hp wrote:

I might just take you up on that Craig. I fancy a rebuild project. I has been a long time since I have been elbows deep rebuilding a Rover V8 (as opposed to a traction engine, now finished!).

i don't know if you would rebuild them but i have parts if you need them

shame you don't live here i could just give you one, i also have had people give me complete p38s just to get rid of them.

the only time warranty starts again is if it is a genuine part fitted by the actual company . if you get 2yrs warranty for a non genuine part they can replace it 3 times and still only cover for the original warranty. thats my perception of warranty unless they issue another receipt with a new warranty period stated .

if you are looking to rebuild your motor at some stage you need to look at things like cam shaft bearings ,welsh plugs (round things on side and back of motor) ,oil pump, an upgraded flex plate. internal components that you can not replace when reassembled , not starter motors or alternators as these are replaceable at any stage . do not discard a genuine starter motor for some generic piece of rubbish thats going to last 12months so to speak. buy a quality gasket kit instead or some cheaper gasket kit, if they are available of cause. a different head bolt kit is something mentioned alot. do not discard genuine parts because that one is better looking

or your alternator is done and the battery is just flat .

looks good with the black trim , and that's one hell of a freshen up.

it just clips on , i think i prized mine off with a paint scraper .
PS there is two plugs, one in each end

did you find the leak

if thats the case you can check the inlet manifold and valley gasket as you work your way towards the heads 😊

use a mirror and a torch to look under things , give it a wash and then look for the leak. find it before you assume what it is.

the "alarm fault" (the sensor in the car that is) only comes up every 5th time the key is used when in fault , according to rave that is. just an FYI