if you want to check your suspension you will need another person to move the steering wheel (eg wife) while you physically put your hand on every joint possible looking for movement , also grab hold of the wheel and rattle the crap out of it (from the top and the side) whilst feeling the upper and lower ball joints in both direct and on full lock position. the vehicle needs to be on the ground in the running position , you only move the steering wheel about an inch either way .
PS check your shocks rubbers they can cause clucks and bangs to

just knock of the lumppy bits and use whats left to help put the skin back on

Harv wrote:

We used to have those around here too, but not in 20+ years. I suspected not enough people worked on their own cars anymore to make such a place pay for itself.

the trouble Harv is there is nothing on today's cars to fix , disposable like every other thing now days.

another thing to check if you haven't already looked is the strip on the roof , just lift it up and look for a hole or missing mastic on the seal under it .

that looks more like condensation more than a leak , i would wipe it up dry and leave it in the weather to see where the moisture is coming from before you do anything destructive.

it's been a while but i finally got around to doing my A/C, went and got it recharged (200$) , also took a tiranny switch with me , but i didn't need it but if i didn't i would have needed it of coarse . put some dye in it for prosperity , just in case it desides to disappear on me .
PS my daughter is getting married on the weekend and didn't want her make up to run in the heat so i sort of had to fix it .

some of us are from Australia to , welcome to the pub.

thanks for the comment Harv , straight to the problem, blown fuse under the bonnet . i am refreshing an old rover for my daughter's wedding soon, have been cleaning it up for registration . lets hope the fuse didn't blow for a reason , thanks.

hi Harv just gave it a run , didn't work , every thing else worked but it will not communicate with the air bag system . just comes up with, unable to communicate with ecm.

as it states the nano will not connect to the ecm but it will connect to the becm. this is a friend's car he has asked to fix air bag issue but i cannot connect to read the fault . where is the best place to start .

it sounds like a vacuum issue , in other words there is an air leak. the rise and fall of rpm is generally the engine leaning out due to too much air and not enough fuel. use a spray bottle with water and spray everything that could be an air inlet , eg throttle body shaft , injector seals around manifold and any think that is under vacuum. you are listening for a whistle as it sucks in the water or it stops reving up. also check all rubber hoses for cracks.

when you say erratic idle do you mean it revs up and then comes back or dose it miss and fart about and tries to recover it self.

if you think its burning oil just stand around the back of the car , if the fumes start to make your eyes sting , its possibly burning oil . as for the h2o disappearance when you drive somewhere just lift the bonnet and feel around for the hole under the water pump for a leak , they can be very discrete until its obvious.

i would go with the baffle as it's a known problem, try and find a hand held temp thermometer and check the temps around the radiator.

don't the diesels have a rubber block as a universal with three bolts in it . it sounds like a tail shaft problem thou.

the problem with these types of tests is it is done under a controlled situation, when you are feathering the throttle or the brake, emissions go out the window, so no real difference in my opinion. It's just a case of i said so, so you do as i say.

to strengthen the internals of the box is a good thing Richard , but that is not the failed component . the pump and converter are the items that failed and this is where the strengthening needs to be and i thought he was doing this but he is only doing the clutch pack as that was recommended i think . so this will be a strait swap and no mapping required . keeping it simple.
PS if this was me i would be considering the mod , costs etc, read the comments on the Ashcroft site about the mods that you can do to the box. the strongest box to fit to a diesel is a hp24 box with a hp22 torque convertor as the bell housing is too small to fit the bigger hp24 convertor .people that have done this say that it should have been done by the factory as it make them better vehicle all round .

the gear box you have has a small torque convertor in it as well as a small pump, ( the piece that the torque converter fits into) this is the part that failed in your box . this item can be replaced with the torque converter and pump from a hp22 box ,( the hp24 converter is physically to big and will not fit the small bell housing in the diesel gear box so you can only use the hp22 pump and converter . to do this you have to drill an access hole in the bell housing to be able to do up the bolts on the flex plate. (this is all explained on the Ashcroft site ) . as for the parts being available, they are only hp22 parts and are readily available. as i stated in my first comment you can fit a hp22 box and converter with the original diesel bell housing . all that is required is a different boss and bolts that bolt onto the engine crank and a 4 bolt flex plate that Ashcroft supply . when you stated that you was going to get a bigger clutch pack from the 24 box i assumed you was doing the mod with the bigger torque converter as well as this give you the strongest box you can fit to the diesel which is a hp24 box with a hp22 oil pump and converter as the parts are interchangeable from one box to the other . the bigger torque converter is a highly recommended modification for those that replace the box for the reason you are doing it .
PS ring Ashcroft and ask the questions as they can do it for you ,and maybe explain it in more detail .
PS if you do this you have to remap the engine or it doesn't work properly. if you put the small one back in then you don't need to remap
at the end of the day it will give you a better drivable vehicle IMHO.
this mod is a common mod for the disco diesel gearbox and i assume that box is the same as your box .
well that's my 2 cents worth , i hope i have helped in some way .

ok so you will not need to remap then , but my next question is why are you not doing the upgrade , it's highly recommended as it makes a big difference to it running of the vehicle.

if i was you i would be ringing and checking that it is a standard 3 bolt convertor and not the 22 . IMHO you are better to go for the other if that is the case .