just to bring this to an end , i was speaking to person the other day and he stated that it was the actual turbo was the issue. after replacing lots of things he had someone offered to do diagnostics on it as training for their apprentices . after lots of teachings they found the turbo wasn't communicating properly, the turbo was leaking oil into the manifold which over time carboned up and stopped it reading correctly as it has a progressive gate , it would over boost then have nothing as it wasn't reading correctly . replaced turbo and all is good again .
going by the time that it boiled i would start with the thermostat first as this is the most likely thing followed up with the pump .
also just as a note, i think i read that diesel radiators have a baffle in the top of the radiator and it can fail and the coolant doesn't circulate in the radiator , it;s simply in one end and out the other , just an FYI.
so today's lesson is to remove the transfer case first and then the gearbox due to the absolute weight of the units.
if you are going to drive it make sure that the heat from the opening is not going to catch fire or melt anything , even disconnect the plug lead so as to reduce the noise and damage that may occur , just an FYI.
i thought the extra length wasn't an issue as the gearbox is the same length overall. i was lead to beleave the difference was corrected in the bell housing and the complete unit was the same length , is this right .
i had an old falcon that blow tail lights all the time , if it wasn't one it was the other until someone suggested that i replace both at the same time and it stopped blowing globes , sometimes it's the weird stuff that just doesn't make sense.
you have a torque wrench that reads that high , i my case it would be a strong arm on the nut ,a piece of pipe on the strong arm and a foot against the tyre and tighten until you grunt . that's how tight i would do it .
no doubt you will strip down the trans and give us an account of what's happened. as we would say in Australia , bugger , it's slang for shes fucked.
it's a common upgrade for a disco as the torque converter is smaller than the standard HP22 converter . you will need a new flex plate , boss to bolt to crank and a mod to the bell housing to do up bolts on flex plate . all available from Ashcroft. you can upgrade a 22 box or down grade a 24 box eg fit original bell housing and a 22 pump. the 24 has a bigger torque converter than the 22 so it has a bigger pump and the 22 converter doesn't fit.
PS the 24 torque converter will not fit in the diesel bell housing.
you can fit the HP24 box it's just the torque converter is to big on the HP24 so you have to use the one from the HP22 including the oil pump and bell housing.
welcome, to the pub.
i was told that a swipe from a rag with brake fluid on it will soften them, never tried it myself but brake fluid dose soften rubber. might need to leave it overnight . just an FYI
if the front discs are warped it vibrates or shudders thou the steering wheel . the rear one's pulse thou the peddle , usually noticed when rolling up to the lights with your foot lightly on the brakes . other than that you have to spin the disc and use a dial gauge manually .
if you clean up the rotary button contacts, make sure you re grease the contacts with electrical grease or it will wear away faster than you think. just an FYI.
pulsing peddle is most likely warped rear discs , need machining or replacing
it dose sound like a wheel bearing , fun to replace ,not.
steel rims are good in the bush , if you damage them you can flog it into shape with a hammer , not the alloys thou.
welcome to the pub
silly question
even if it only read close to the parameters, (thats a differant MAF) wouldn't the computer trim it in or just not read it .
Harv wrote:
As I understand it, our “modern” EFI engines run very close to ideal fuel/air mixtures already.
aren't today's engines tuned for emissions not power and economy (VW diesel gate) i think you can get great improvement if you tune for performance.