how long since it was serviced it could be picking up crap ( clutch plates etc) and getting stuck in the valving , simple to service just get a service kit , basically a pan gasket, filter and oil. if there is anything in the oil or the bottom of the pan you will see it, if it hasn't been done there could be hand fulls of it.

just an FYI for you . i disconnect my TC by lifting one of the wheel sensors, usually the right one as this works with my left handedness, it comes up ABS fault on the dash . it only disables the TC as i often have the ratcheting through the brake peddle, but not all the time. i think it depends on which wheel is locking up at the time . i do a lot of sand work and it would be super convenient if i could just turn it off when needed or separate the ABS from the TC as sometimes you need to separate them. this is done on new vehicles with the sand, mud, hill descent knob or buttons, so very interested in what you are doing as i normally disable and not fix for a month or so and then a week later its disabled again (back to the shack) its a real PITA to be honest . mine is a gems system .

i know you said the level was checked , did you check or him , dont take someones word do it yourself and be shore
PS check level before starting it will be hi , after start it will be correct level, hopefully.

try resetting adaptive values with the nano, if you can with a thor that is .

thats the most interesting thing ive read on air suspension for a while , better than its going down again.

i have had ignition switches stick on and you could not turn off the starter, it was the piece on the end of the ignition barrel, don't know if its the same on p38 tho

a uni will let you down more so than a cv , i would fix the uni?

the first thing to do is to look at the cv boot and see if its split, if so and you want a cheap option, bye a new boot ( some even come with grease) dismantal and wash out the cv, re grease and a new boot . if the boot is split it most likely just have dirt in it

if your looking for a pump for parts washing, the pump in my parts washer is identical to a submersible pond pump with a filter gause over the inlet, in the event the pump stops i will be purchasing another pond pump (the same as used for water features and gold fish)
PS to run a sand blaster even a small one you need 20cfm air compressor or you will be struggling to use it . i have noticed that their is a blaster that goes on the end of a hi pressure water blaster . i think its called a wet blaster, only seen them on the computer some where.

i use turps or white spirit for parts and metho for brake parts, sometimes i use the spay on degreaser to, and for heavy covered areas use a wire brush first then degrease.
yes i have a cheap parts washer as well

a per mile road tax is how you tax an EV, i would say thats the big push behind it . same as here

if your referencing a noise in the radio like the noise you got from an old car it could be the alternator starting to fail ?

yes they can be intermittent at the start but become more prominent with time... if the cat is damaged it can pressurize and blow the gasket out and cause running issues. check around all the manifolds and joint areas with a piece off flexy hose up to your ear and listen for a fluffing sound.

sounds like manifold gasket or something similar if its cutting out continually it could be cracked catalist.

the first time i heard it it sounded like lifter rattle, you call them followers, without cam wear but the second time i listened it had a ring, rattle sound to it and now not so shore .
PS had another listen still think its lifters , if it sounds like a diesel idling (sort off that is) then the holes the lifters sit in might be slightly worn causing a slight leak down , just enough to cause a noise. is it their when you do an oil change have you tried a different oil ?

might be best to send off the new purchased one and get it coded for your car as well as get the chip fitted , then you have a spare just in case. then it plug and play out of the box so to speak

it was sad to hear of his passing , he was on the doner system and helped several others . i think he was a real man in many ways that people didn't know off
RIP Mr RRToadhall

welcome

there needs to be weight on the tow ball at all times , if the trailer is pitching it is too light .EG have you removed the spare from the front draw bar or moved the weight on the trailer somehow , bought new tyres that are bigger and lifted the trailer just enough to bounce up and down on the ball. try lifting the suspension up on the car (if its on air and not springs) so its caring the weight on the tow ball and see if its any different . if you have put smaller diameter tyres on the car it would have the same effect. in other words its balanced out at tow ball height.

i removed my dash and didnt remove the steering column , i did remove one off the leavers from the steering to make it easier the biggest problem i had was removing the wood grain strip above the glove box a real pita . my only advice is to make shore the flaps in the heater box are free and move easy. if you are going to do the heater core you have to remove it to replace the core without cutting anything and dont forget the fans , might as well do a good job of it
PS i used dash removal paulsp38.com