another thing you can do is check that all the pipe work is not touching the car as this can produce a resonance sound that can go though the car .

Marshall8hp wrote:

I might just take you up on that Craig. I fancy a rebuild project. I has been a long time since I have been elbows deep rebuilding a Rover V8 (as opposed to a traction engine, now finished!).

i don't know if you would rebuild them but i have parts if you need them

shame you don't live here i could just give you one, i also have had people give me complete p38s just to get rid of them.

the only time warranty starts again is if it is a genuine part fitted by the actual company . if you get 2yrs warranty for a non genuine part they can replace it 3 times and still only cover for the original warranty. thats my perception of warranty unless they issue another receipt with a new warranty period stated .

if you are looking to rebuild your motor at some stage you need to look at things like cam shaft bearings ,welsh plugs (round things on side and back of motor) ,oil pump, an upgraded flex plate. internal components that you can not replace when reassembled , not starter motors or alternators as these are replaceable at any stage . do not discard a genuine starter motor for some generic piece of rubbish thats going to last 12months so to speak. buy a quality gasket kit instead or some cheaper gasket kit, if they are available of cause. a different head bolt kit is something mentioned alot. do not discard genuine parts because that one is better looking

or your alternator is done and the battery is just flat .

looks good with the black trim , and that's one hell of a freshen up.

it just clips on , i think i prized mine off with a paint scraper .
PS there is two plugs, one in each end

did you find the leak

if thats the case you can check the inlet manifold and valley gasket as you work your way towards the heads 😊

use a mirror and a torch to look under things , give it a wash and then look for the leak. find it before you assume what it is.

the "alarm fault" (the sensor in the car that is) only comes up every 5th time the key is used when in fault , according to rave that is. just an FYI

the thing is none of them have purchased fuel they just put the price up and the excuse is , well there is no excuse they hadn't even payed for the fuel that was $130 a barrel. its called price gauging , greed is the answer and the governments let it happen. modern day version of criminals .

the cost of oil is under$100 a barrel, so i don't see why it's going up to be honest . it's a bit like Russia are playing in the sand pit with the rubbish we are being fed over here, certainly not what you would expect from a so called super power. so what is the reason it's up so much, o that's right speculation....
PS fuel prices over here are around $2.40L for 91 oc

or you can use the little hose that comes with the wd40 tin,( i have one about 150mm long) and spray it up to the top of the piston , hold on to the little hose or it will fly off in the cylinder, just another option.

iv had a similar issue with the cable that comes from the inside lock , i my case it sheered off without fraying (looked like it had been over crimped and cut when made) they are left and right cables to from memory .

the bloke who voluntarily told me about the making off the hoses said he had made many over the years and they are about 100 dollars AU to make so not a big job , but he did say he needed the other hose to reuse the threaded ends as they are not available or something.
PS if you need one that badly i could send you a pipe for a petrol one from Australia.

i don't know about genuine pipes but i had a bloke from Pertec (a hydraulic hose maker) state he can make them , so i suspect all hydraulic hose makers can make them, all he needed was the pipe to match it up and take the inner out off or similar ,it's an option.

and where are you going to get gas from when Russia turn it off or do you get it else ware? how much of Europe and England get fuels from Russia?

in the event that the screw dosen't come undone you can drill the head of it with an extra long drill bit , its usually the back of the screw that goes rusty and will not come undone , you will have to remove the pipes then to extract the screw from the plate