you have a torque wrench that reads that high , i my case it would be a strong arm on the nut ,a piece of pipe on the strong arm and a foot against the tyre and tighten until you grunt . that's how tight i would do it .
no doubt you will strip down the trans and give us an account of what's happened. as we would say in Australia , bugger , it's slang for shes fucked.
it's a common upgrade for a disco as the torque converter is smaller than the standard HP22 converter . you will need a new flex plate , boss to bolt to crank and a mod to the bell housing to do up bolts on flex plate . all available from Ashcroft. you can upgrade a 22 box or down grade a 24 box eg fit original bell housing and a 22 pump. the 24 has a bigger torque converter than the 22 so it has a bigger pump and the 22 converter doesn't fit.
PS the 24 torque converter will not fit in the diesel bell housing.
you can fit the HP24 box it's just the torque converter is to big on the HP24 so you have to use the one from the HP22 including the oil pump and bell housing.
welcome, to the pub.
i was told that a swipe from a rag with brake fluid on it will soften them, never tried it myself but brake fluid dose soften rubber. might need to leave it overnight . just an FYI
if the front discs are warped it vibrates or shudders thou the steering wheel . the rear one's pulse thou the peddle , usually noticed when rolling up to the lights with your foot lightly on the brakes . other than that you have to spin the disc and use a dial gauge manually .
if you clean up the rotary button contacts, make sure you re grease the contacts with electrical grease or it will wear away faster than you think. just an FYI.
pulsing peddle is most likely warped rear discs , need machining or replacing
it dose sound like a wheel bearing , fun to replace ,not.
steel rims are good in the bush , if you damage them you can flog it into shape with a hammer , not the alloys thou.
welcome to the pub
silly question
even if it only read close to the parameters, (thats a differant MAF) wouldn't the computer trim it in or just not read it .
Harv wrote:
As I understand it, our “modern” EFI engines run very close to ideal fuel/air mixtures already.
aren't today's engines tuned for emissions not power and economy (VW diesel gate) i think you can get great improvement if you tune for performance.
another thing you can do is check that all the pipe work is not touching the car as this can produce a resonance sound that can go though the car .
Marshall8hp wrote:
I might just take you up on that Craig. I fancy a rebuild project. I has been a long time since I have been elbows deep rebuilding a Rover V8 (as opposed to a traction engine, now finished!).
i don't know if you would rebuild them but i have parts if you need them
shame you don't live here i could just give you one, i also have had people give me complete p38s just to get rid of them.
the only time warranty starts again is if it is a genuine part fitted by the actual company . if you get 2yrs warranty for a non genuine part they can replace it 3 times and still only cover for the original warranty. thats my perception of warranty unless they issue another receipt with a new warranty period stated .
if you are looking to rebuild your motor at some stage you need to look at things like cam shaft bearings ,welsh plugs (round things on side and back of motor) ,oil pump, an upgraded flex plate. internal components that you can not replace when reassembled , not starter motors or alternators as these are replaceable at any stage . do not discard a genuine starter motor for some generic piece of rubbish thats going to last 12months so to speak. buy a quality gasket kit instead or some cheaper gasket kit, if they are available of cause. a different head bolt kit is something mentioned alot. do not discard genuine parts because that one is better looking
or your alternator is done and the battery is just flat .