If they haven’t got a press there not gonna get them out, lol, I’m curious, did they give you a fixed price, many garages won’t as it can be a fight

Morat wrote:

Folks, am I right to assume that if you're changing the lower balljoint one one side you'd also do the upper balljoint at the same time?

I would, as you have to remove the top one to do the bottom one, the press goes through the top ball joint hole.

It’s so easy to bugger up when entering the code, you won’t be the first, believe me.

Your know that car inside out and back to front soon, and all it’s little quirks, glad your up and running again. 🤞

Sometimes the motor ( I presume it’s a motor ) that sticks it in neutral for towing takes a few attempts before gears again, ask me how I know ! Lol.
Most probably through not being used..
That car is still testing you then.

I must admit, after the fight with Marty’s, I bought a second hand one ( although it wasn’t the problem ) , and as I finished the scrap guys came past and I threw mine on there truck.
It’s a bit annoying that you can buy for certain models, but as per usual not for p38s

I think you’ve pretty much got it covered, although I’m not sure about completely powering down for that long, would it not be easier to get someone to fire it up each week for 10 minutes. Even move it now and then, just keeps things reasonably clean ( brake discs ) , and freely moving.
Otherwise I agree with Clive, but good luck with any tarpaulin lasting the Cornish breezes you get,,

If I remember correctly, we used a big hammer, ball joint splitter, and a fork splitter,
It’s been on there a while, I’d give it some plusgas, let it soak then a few good pneumatic shocks should do the job.
Otherwise I’m wondering if a plate surrounding it and a 2 leg pulled should do the same as the proper puller

OldShep56 wrote:

I use lockers as I have put the spec tyres on (Pirelli Scorpion Zeros) and with the Stormer wheels, it would cost me around £900 a corner to replace!

Yours I would put lock nuts, my khans were £2500 new with tyres, but if someone wants them there have them, wether lock nuts or not, they know if locknuts that the keys in the car somewhere, how many people take any notice of a car alarm going off, when my van got broken into and emptied, the alarm must of been going, but it was 100yrds up the road from me, the people whose house it was outside said they didn’t even hear it, ffs, this was on a busy road in London,,

Organized madness is always good, welcome

When I bought me dse, one of the nuts had been broken, right in the flange, PO had tried to get it out and failed miserably, I bought a 16mm staratt cutter, used masking tape around it to center it in the hole, took less than 5 minutes using battery driver, and I didn’t touch the wheel.
The problem is the wheel nut design, lets be honest, most cars come with alloys nowadays, so do we need locknuts?
Ok, some wheels are expensive, put a set on them, but nobody in there right mind is gonna pinch a set of standard alloys.

Looks like you won’t be retiring any time

If you’ve bought a recon, I wouldn’t bother getting yours recon’d, as Richard said, they don’t often go wrong, I hope the recon comes with the arm attached, Marty had a job getting his one off..

Are bridges still in business, they’ve been going for ages, must be 20yrs since I’ve been down there,

Damn, I threw steering box away, got fed up tripping over it. Have a look on the bay, I’m sure there’s plenty of them

If you find it’s the pump, drop me a message, I’m pretty sure I have both types taking up space

Heat shields are a PIA to be honest, when I do heads think I’ve only once managed to get them all out, as long as you’ve got the main 2 ( brass studs) it won’t rattle, get ready for a fight with the right hand one anyway,,,
Easier if someone is in the car and able to turn the steering when needed.
I haven’t fitted mine back on yet, since engine swap a year ago, there all clean and shiny, sitting in a box in the garage.
I normally have some floating about, but handed them out to people last year when I had a clear out.

Is 1&2 the bar from the steering box to hub ?
If so I’ve got my old one that was changed when I was chasing the clunk, nothing wrong with it.
The panard bushes are an easy change, 3-4 quid each

Morat wrote:

That must have been a hell of a shock!

I’m just glad I wasn’t under it when it proceeded to bump stops at speed

Gilbertd wrote:

At only £50 a pop for brand new, why would you buy S/H?

My thoughts exactly, it was in good nick, was on standard height, I’d gone up and down with no problems, so when it went bang I was a little shocked today the least