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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Don’t touch the discs, total waste of money, many people have fallen for the dealer software trick, if it was tha easy we’d all have it, I believe that LR dealers are linked into a mainframe.

If the 8 mm going to the brass studs are knackered, use a small pair of mole grips, or even tiny stilsons, I always replace the with stainless steel replacements.
I’ve not come across any difference on early or late with the manifold bolts.

I’ve done quite a few head jobs on these, I’ve seen some pitting, normally around the water ways, I use wellseal as a precaution, just because it’s alloy.
One thing your most probably end up doing is the heater Orings, once you start touching those pipes , if there the original Orings they will be dry and crack, but for an hours work there worth doing for piece of mind.

Rocker cover bolts, well that’s a new one, be stuffed if I’m changing them aswell, could understand rocker shaft bolts, but I’ve never had a set of them undo either.
I don’t know if the torque setting for heads applies if your going arp route,
Personally I don’t follow 20 n then 90/90, I go old school, start torquing at 55lb and work my way up to 75-85. That’s what I worked it out to doing as per rave,

The thing with these gaskets , if they’ve had a long period without antifreeze, the gaskets go like a tea bag, I’ve changed many that are non existent around the water ways.
Here’s an example , although this one was on cylinders

https://imgur.com/a/ZljQ1KS

Holy s#@*, that’s unreal, who would sell a car knowing it’s a possible death trap.

That rangie is definitely testing you, mine was like that when i first bought it,
As for drills to get the extractor out, I’m afraid I really don’t know of any, I’ve thrown those extractors away aswell, bloody things always break, thought it was just me, obviously not !

You’ve done the right thing, I’m like simon, no guard, no handle, but I’m also proof it can catch you out.
Stay in your comfort zone, although if next years meet is at yours, I want to see all the fancy angles you’ve cut with your saw ⚠️

If you not happy , get one of the guys at work to do it, will take seconds, you could watch the firework display under your car, 👍

Looks like you dodged a bullet,, let’s hope you have a spell of trouble free motoring for a while

Just make sure the disc cover and handle are on, once you get proficient with one you can loose the handle, I had one catch and jump on me about 18 months ago, it managed to cut the tendons in my hand, made a bloody mess ..
My fault though, wasn’t having a good day and grip wasn’t as strong as usual.
I’d said to my mate a few minutes before, if this jumps I’m stuffed, it must of heard me.

The ones I had, my neighbour bought for me, I’m guessing from lidls as that’s his favourite shop, broke up in 15mm missiles, luckily enough I wasn’t under a car with nowhere to go.
Should at least have a warning ⚠️ on them.
I’m the first to admit , I don’t wear Google’s every time, gloves, ear defenders, I want to get the job done, not faff about playing fancy dress.

Those 1mm discs shoot out like bullets, ask me how I know,, they should be banned.

Works for me,, lol

They do another kit, but it’s a lot dearer, with all the different caps, as Brian says, possibly remove some of the ancillaries and get a torch and mirror on a rod, you can then check all around, pity your not closer, I like a challenge.

I’m steered towards your inlet manifold, it’s got to be high up to make it appear both sides, do you not know someone with a compressor, fill with water, shove air line with a rag wrapped round to pressurise,

I’m wondering if there’s a pinhole in a hose somewhere, I’ve got the same, but mine is a light misting of atf across the bottom of the rads, I’ve been chasing this leak for a year, lol

Have you checked around the throttle body heater, another favourite to fail and leak.

The dreaded oil cooler pipes, Mine stripped the thread when I changed mine..
From memory a closed circuit is correct,so you should be good to go..