I’m led to believe it’s the EU that have banned halogen bulbs, as were leaving why are we still listening to there crap.
On the up side, swmbo came in with a carrier bag full of bulbs, 20p per pack, joy of working for a large supermarket chain.. 😁
So I won’t be worried if a bulb goes for a while, on the led front, I bought a fridge bulb, wasn’t cheap, had a hell of a job to get it to work, only lasted 3 months till it died, at nearly 4 quid I won’t be using again, 2 for 79p (normal bulbs) in home bargains, so guess which I’ll be using in the future, lol.
As for electric cars, no comment, but it’s got my brain whirring, a Toyota that looks like an hybrid, but with a v8 under the hood 🤫

Let’s hope it’s only the water pump, last thing you want to be doing is ahead job, once replaced triple check the radiator, there prone to cracking on dse.
Fingers crossed for you

I’ll 2nd the hold down the band button, between 3-5 seconds normally, why the hell they have to make everything so bloody complicated I’ll never know.

I would hazard a guess at inlet manifold gasket, you should of grabbed some UV dye, would of been cheaper than the local indie..

Found out why it didn’t want to move, offside wing had been slapped at some point, as it turns under and is fixed, that was bent into a downward vee , the bumper slide bracket was bent in at least 3/4” maybe more, all straightened now and working rear washer, woo hoo. 😁

Cheers guys, block of wood, hammer, gentle persuasion, lol

So I got under the car today, flicked the wires round but it’s still stuck solid on the sides, any ideas before I get heavy with it.

How are you bleeding it, two people or easy bleed ?

Is the box green showing connected ?.
If not, most likely you haven’t chosen the right comm, you can look under device manager, it’s there somewhere ( soz, I’m on my iPad ) the first thing you do is click comms, once your on the right one it will fire into life, your get the usual faults of car moved ect, just ignore, clear any faults and it should be ok
Otherwise give the obd socket a shot of cleaner, also check for bent pins in the lead, easy to do

How the hell was that holding together, think your extremely lucky to have made Swindon..

Try running power directly to the pump, if you can get it up you can drive, I did about 30 miles on the bump stops once, never again, shook the s#*= out of me, lol

Now I know why I keep a kicker in the glove box, just in case !
How long are you up there hoppy, I could stick the kicker in the post if you need.

Gives you something to play with now, change the bearing and have a spare for the other side.

I understand the colours ect, they go from sort of yellow to purple, I agree that 6500 will be blueish, I need to find the chart I looked at before when I was looking at bulbs

Mukiwa wrote:

My only concern is they are 6.5k, that's Eastern European old BMW M3 boy racer addon colour. I prefer white 4.5 - 5.5k as apparently the more blue the light the more it disperses in the atmosphere due to water and the less distance it travels. Please correct me if I'm wrong though as I can't remember where I read that.

I ran 6K HID on my bike and with my old yellow night visor it was not a good mix! I couldn't see much as it all went green ( hindsight is a wonderful thing). I took that HID off and went back to normal bulbs. MV's are good lookers but as super models they like daylight and posing not parading in the dark, the dip beam is seriously crap. I had to wire my dip and main together to even begin to see things. Honda's have some of the best lights I've ever ridden with.

I've got night breakers now though hehehe. The normal main beams are probably the best I've ever had on a car but it's the dip that is the problem, it's crap and it gets over powered by all the new cars LED retina burners.

Aren’t the ones above only 4000lm, which should be nice and white

I think maybe there selling the Bluetooth adapter as they point to a certain one.

Although it’s against my religion to spend this sort of money on a set of bulbs, now with winter coming , price reduction, failing eye sight , and just fed up with people not seeing a f-ing great Range Rover coming along the road. It’s time to either get these or buy every other A-hole around here a set.

I’m with morat, I know a bearing is cheaper, but the shape of the hub makes it a bloody nightmare to swap the bearing out. You’ve also got to get the rear dirt guard off, depends how much you value your time, a few hrs, or all day.
The timken bearings were fitted from new I believe, so yes it will last a while, it’s annoying that all other models are a lot cheaper, means there must be some major difference between them.

RutlandRover wrote:

I needed two sills on my Focus a few years ago, found some that were almost a deal too good to be true. Got them welded in and painted (by a main dealer body shop, so the quality of the work should have been top notch) and they'd both rusted through again in under 24 months!

That’s the quality of the metal nowadays, look at cars in the 70s, they were built like tanks, no metal fatigue for years ( unless it was a fiat, lancia or Datsun)
Metal was of better quality for sure back then.

That’s the usual point they get hit, shouldn’t be that bad to sort it out, as mentioned, a good panel beater would portapower it first, then set to work by hand, will still cost a fair whack I would imagine, maybe look at maybe sorting out as is, or completely redoing.