Cheers, I’ll order one now
It’s not so much the valley gasket, as those badly made end seals. ( shitpart)
I’ve trimmed a few when doings head jobs, had one leak on my previous engine, literally coated the complete underneath of the car front to back ( was on motorway a lot ) had to gunk and jetwash underneath.
Not a huge job to do if it is them, couple of hours tops. Just more a PIA .
Exactly my thoughts richard, it’s ok if I accelerate, then it goes into super rich and try’s to stall, the message was no signal, but when I put it on live reading it sat at 49, while bank one was happily fluttering up and down, I’m going to check connectors first, just in case.
The rear valley rubber with the little prongs that supposedly sit neatly between the head are a pain, if not seated properly they willlet oil past eventually, might be worth putting the mirror down there and double checking it’s sealed,
Interesting, but 7 yrs old, he made work for himself,, no 8 exhaust bolt for example, pull the inner arch liner and you have access, spending 3 hours on an exhaust bolt, nooooooo!
Orings for heater, even first timers should be no more than 1hr 30.
Most of it was tarting it up, be fecked if I’m pulling my interior out to clean the carpets.
I’m surprised that the head gasket has supposedly gone on a 30k engine, I’d be a bit suspect of that.
To me the post would put people off buying one, it’s not exactly a good advert for a p38
Gilbertd wrote:
Wrong!!! bank 2 is even numbered pots, RH side as sitting in the drivers seat, not looking from the front.
As I said, r/h side of car.
Is it usual for a no signal when they go wrong,
I recall OB saying he had put non genuine in his and was running ok, I had mot a few days ago, emissions were off the scale, this wouldn’t of helped.
Gonna throw a new set of plugs in aswell, then give it a good wallop down the motorway, should clear out all the town driving
So nano is reporting bank 2 not receiving a signal, I’m presuming bank 2 is even cylinders, r/h side of car,
Am I correct ?
Marty, you’ve obviously been away, we’ve dealt with that beauty already..
No, leave the valves in..
It’s up to you if you want to relap the valves and put new seals, but no need to remove to have them skimmed
The ladder is definitely the crowning glory, lol
davew wrote:
Maybe this was the inspiration ?
Makes me wonder, if they can afford a SVR at least have a smart looking one, I wonder if the seats have orange leather inserts,, yuk !
KCR wrote:
no10chris
It´s the same as the glovebox light, not like the front footwell or puddle lights.
Cheers, something to keep an eye out for next time down the breakers yard
Mukiwa wrote:
Martyuk wrote:
It's for the rear footwell light that goes under the overhang of the center console in the rear footwell.
Not all vehicles were fitted with it, and that's where the connector to the vehicle loom hides for some reason.
Marty - I found the mounting holes for that light today. I would never have known it was there unless I dismantled the cubby console
So is it the same fitting as all the other lights ?
Morat wrote:
I should probably admit that the guy in charge of the garage looked at me and gently but firmly took the grinder out of my hands and cut the nut off himself :) Took him a while though...
All's well - calibration time!https://www.strava.com/activities/1848058137
https://www.strava.com/activities/1848058150
https://www.strava.com/activities/1848058111
ooh me bum! :)
Morat wrote:
Calibrated! Well, for Standard and Motorway settings anyway. I really wasn't very excited about jacking it up for High mode and Access mode doesn't matter. I stuck a new bump stop on the Front Left while I was at it, as the old one was getting frilly most of the way round and wouldn't grip the rods.
I don't know the RAVE method to install a new bumpstop but I suspect it's quite similar to mine: Line it up, stick the P38 in Access Mode and then jump on the side steps to bang it in.
I’d be weary jumping on my steps, frames are on the way out, think they say put a block there and lower to access, I’ll let you know, I’ve had 4 sitting in the garage for a year, lol
I had one of those tape to phone adapters, was in the car when I bought it, it went straight in the bin,,
Rcutler wrote:
Me and Chris10 did both sides upper and lower in a half day, all you need is an angle grinder, your normal tools and a press, £35 one off ebay will do the trick.
Be aware that the Bearmach replacements i got did not fit. (They credited me back but fortunately Chris had a pair in his garage at the time)
But the bearmach I had did fit, lol,,
So I’m going to pull my factory radio out and see if the lead can be soldered to the cassette head board, if it works I might even remove the cassette head, can honestly say I don’t have a cassette anywhere, vinyl yes, but think upgrading to a turntable on the passenger seat might get me some grief from swmbo 😁
Ill have to look at the options, it’s not me, it’s the kids, I don’t even know how to put music on my phone, I use it to make calls, how dare I, lol
Why we’ve changed to radio questions, has anyone added the lead so aux source can be added, rather than a headphone jack I would like to add a usb connector.
I’ve got the post on installing a jack connection, god knows what wires I’d need to splice in from a usb socket
