Im with Richard, It can take a while, even with a rebuilt compressor, you could try sticking a jack under the tow ball and give it a lift, sometimes that shock gets it going, also double check connectors in eas box.
Remember tail gate and doors must be closed, sometimes you have to push the button again.

Note to self, type faster, lol

With the rebuild kits, get from someone like landiair, who deals with eas, otherwise you don’t know what your getting

I always have a bag of the clips, doing head gaskets all the time, I pull the r/h liner out all the time to get at exhaust manifold, if you have a pair of small pincers, pull the Center pegs out, you can do with a screw driver, but a little fidderly.
As Dave says, the pins on rear bags can be a nightmare, might be an idea if you don’t have new, to get some before starting the rears, I’ve had pins snap on top before, made it a fun job, but managed to get a handsaw in the gap and cut top of bag mounting off, they also have a tendency of sticking at the top, make sure you clean the area well before reinstalling.
Bet you do the other front bag in no time at all today..

How bad is the paint, have you not tried colour sanding and seeing how the original paint comes up, with all these guns that measure paint thickness ect nowadays, it would be good to keep original if possible.

If you leave the liner in, you use bits of wood, or whatever is at hand to hold the liner out , the fact it only takes a few seconds to remove, it isn’t worth the hassle.
3 HRs for one bag is taking it a bit slow, I’d look at all 4 being done in less, but if you’ve never done them before, better safe than sorry, the rears are the hardest to do.
Did you trim the pipes ?

Nooooooo, don’t put anything on the diaphragm
Lube on it would make it sticky

Why were on suspension issues, has anyone changed there bump stops, I’ve had a set sitting there for a year plus.
Do they just push on, or bolted?

Good question, I most probably would of jacked the car up and put the blocks in, then took a measurement, never thought about using nano or rsw software

Double check the the pipe has seated, it sounds like it’s not fully home, but if could feel that way, loosen slightly, give it a wiggle and see if it suddenly finds a new level.

I’ve tried to see what you can, but my telepathic powers have failed, lol,,
There’s no link !

Looks good, let us know what you think of the unit.

Is that before the dogs get, or the missus sees what a mess you’ve made, lol

As you’ve got plenty to spare, mark the cut, double check it, now this is the training bit, if right handed, hold the Delrin in left hand, press it to saw guide with your thumb, your now ready to cut it.
Remember that the cut is to the left of the mark, otherwise you will be short the blade thickness.
The trick is, your left hand is more important than the cut, if that stays put, the cutting is easy...
Those of us that used them daily don’t even think about it, but then I’m shite on a computer,
We’re have you a carpenter yet, but I guarantee you won’t have me a comp tech, lmao

Definitely a strange one, Just remembered you’ve got a Thor lump, so not easy to pop the coils out and get a mirror down the back,,

It’s not the same maf, it’s one from east coast rangies, I spoke to Dave, he said was a good one.
Chris, check connections on the tps, I’ll see what I can find as pm..
Gotta get this sorted, can poodle up the Spanish mountains

Chris, have you reset adaptive values yet ?
If it’s been running for months with a bad maf it’s gonna take a while before it adjusts,

Morat wrote:

I've been too scared to plug in my new saw

Don’t be scared of it, just respect it, I would rather of told you the dangers first, before your typing minus fingers, ok, I’ve been using for years, but I’ve had my finger nails trimmed more than once, lol

Have we froze, or is everyone running ok for a change. Don’t think I’ve ever seen 3 days without something going on.
If your all running ok, come give me a hand to sort mine out, lol 😆

Mukiwa wrote:

I had a transmission "problem" after my Congleton c**ts swapped out my previous engine. It got really bad when going from park to D when cold but the clunking got less as it warmed up. Slowly though the thump felt through the car got worse. I did take it back to them and they told me it was just a worn transfer box chain, but was ok.

Anyway when I had this engine fitted by Dave and his dad at Eastcoast4x4 he asked me did I know that only the bottom 2 bolts were holding the transfer box to the engine? I asked would that explain the thumping noise? He said I'm surprised it didn't fall out as the 2 that were in were loose as well.
So now I have all the bolts and only a mild engagement clunk compared to the massive thump I used to get.

I reset all the values after I collected it and it drives nicely now.

To be truthful, I can’t see any reason why anyone changing an engine would touch the gearbox, there’s no need to go anywhere near it, think it might of just been bad luck that you got the clunking after the work was done.
Has Dave brought his p38 out for the summer, it’s normally stored all winter, lol

So I was having a clear out, had my old cats sitting there for a year now, thought do I throw or scrap, went down the scrap path, walked away with £160,, so be aware, if your thinking of fitting new cats, it won’t be as bad as it first seems,,

Don’t you just love the world today, you help someone out, tell them the truth, and because they realise they’ve been fleeced, they get out there pram,
Keyboard warriors seem to be increasing all the time, they ask for help, but if they don’t get the answer in there mind, out comes the dummy.
I’ve never had to deal with such, but my stepfather got a bad review , when we researched it, they’d slagged off the wrong garage, ffs, got that removed instantly without a problem.