Clive, think I’ve come across one put on by the guy who put yours on, lol, I never tighten them, the spinning itself does a good job of that, luckily I’ve always managed to give a wallop or 2 with a 32oz technical adjuster and get them off.

If your lock isn’t doing anything, it’s possible it’s thrown the bar, open the window and shine a torch down, might not need a latch.
But if your tailgate isn’t working it’s not looking good.
It would be unusual for yours to need the code, most Bosch systems, put fully charged battery on, leave the car alone for 30-40 mins, stick key in ignition, it will say push remote and away you go, ( remember, don’t leave key in car when connecting battery, the doors lock !)
They do water pump spanner and holders on eBay cheap enough, although must admit I’ve never needed the holder, a good wallop normally shocks it enough, especially as yours has been off I think your have no problems.

Well that’s this week sorted out, what’s on the agenda for next week, lol.
Seriously, welcome to the forum , be careful handling the metal pipes as they can disturb or crack the heater Orings, then you will have a next week sorted out, when you fill the system, lift up the expansion tank and shove a rag under, take the hose off the small bleed off on top of rad, it makes it easier to get it filled first time.

Bet it runs a bit better now, I change mine yearly wether it’s needs or not, so cheap now for a liner and ring kit..

It’s not the throttle heater, standing in front of car, r/h side of plenum, pipe comes up from under the car, clips into bracket, has 2 wire plug going to it, outlet goes to throttle body ( rear side )
I’m lucky enough to have quite flexible throttle heater pipes, as I’ve had engine out twice and bent them about quite a lot, lol

So I did a bit of digging, knew it was something to do with fuel, it’s the purge valve !

Maybe I’m wrong with the part, just know I’ve got to change a part, thought it wa fuel related, has a pipe off each end, one end goes to throttle body, never got round to tracing the other end and won’t for a few days ( back has gone, ffs )
Will try to get part number

It’s on the line coming in, l/h side of bananas

Jeez, this is getting heavy, , as Richard said, you never forget that one time the wheel came loose. let’s just accept we all treat our wheel bolts/nuts differently,
Wether it’s using a torque wrench, breaker bar or a gun to put them on, it’s how you feel safest at the end of the day.

Just remembered that I had a fuel pressure regulator fault, which disappeared when I changed the fuse box, gonna dig it out and install as a precaution.. ( pressure reg )
It feels fuel related, So hopefully that will fix it.

So the past few weeks I’ve had a problem that I’m chasing, starts fine, runs fine till I’m in 4th gear, say at 40-50 mph, it then acts like it’s a dropped a few cylinders, knock it into neutral, give it a few throttles and it goes back on eight, yesterday it did it but stalled, only the once, normally it will just go really low and I can catch it.
Changed plugs, TPS, MAF, gonna swap CPS today, fuel pump is 18 months old, so I don’t think it’s that,
My initial thought was the maf, maybe this is why my lpg is acting up, any ideas appreciated, plugging in diagnostics today to see if any stored faults.

It might say Manchester, but I guarantee there coming from Singapore, I’ve had numerous rows with eBay over sellers saying there uk based when there not.
If they actually care, items can still arrive quickly, but most don’t give a toss, once they’ve got ur cash,,

I swear by my 3/4 drive breaker bar, I’ve always been weary of alloy wheels since the 80s, when I flew up a dual carriageway, turned at a junction to get clunking, yep, loose wheel nuts. They were all tight..
Now I pull them up with a heave at the bar, most probably well above the recommended torque, but I’d rather know there not coming off .

I think the flux is the main ingredient, I was a plumber for many years, I only used 1 type of flux.
It was an expensive one compared with many availabile, but I never had a joint which didn’t take.

Could you not get a bit of copper pipe, slice in half, put over the split and sweat it on, just a thought, can’t say I’ve ever sweated onto Ali. Or if it would stick,

Apparently after a little investigation, Harris al- solder 500 will solder copper to aluminium, might be a lot easier as not so much heat needed..

If I’m right, the Linley was the most expensive Range Rover for quite a few years, Jmc was lucky enough to get from a dealer who didn’t have a clue what he had..

Double check all connections in the eas box, otherwise try rewriting the ride heights but a couple of points different, could be sensors are finally on the way out

I remember the feeling of being in a boat when driving my old classic, many a time I had my neighbour hanging on to the bar on the dash for grim life, think I aged him a few times , lmao.
Would I go back to a classic, noooooooooo !
Nice to see someone that isn’t slagging p38s off for a change.

How the hell could they get so many wrong, must of pulled them off and then thought oh s#*t , when it came to reassembly, lol.
Gotta love the idiots out there ,,

Don’t know what size hose is on my filler, but it chucks it in at a rate, most I’ve ever got in was 86 Ltrs, so I suspect it’s a 100 Ltrs tank, in really cold weather if I’m empty, it can take forever as the pump runs really slow until about 25-30 Ltrs then takes off.

Morat wrote:

I think I just need an armoured grill, headlights and windscreen. Bloody Pheasants!!
I've got a new grill to fit.

PIA for sure.
That can get expensive very quickly..