I did wonder what the roof looked like, one touch of pushing the drill through would give it the Rocky Mountains look,

You have to see to believe,,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38/123073651881

Splicing a valve in is easy, I understand why, but I’d rather blank where needed, and valve what’s there to do your work, then put back to standard, I think splicing in your asking for more problems with possible leaks ( experience from previous rig, badly spliced by P.O. )
I’d be checking the compressor, swapped mine today for spare I carry, it’s like I’ve supercharged the EAS, lol.
I have always found that although you can run without car running, it’s a lot happier if it is running, I think it draws a lot of power. you should be able to run without maf, normally it ticks over rough but still runs, unless of course another
LR special feature.
I’ve seen some pumps with a schrader valve fitted to the opposite side to the pipe outlet, Obviously a bit of drilling and tapping required, something I might even look at myself, as can be installed neatly

It’s an individual thing,, ride wise I admit the 16s are the business, I don’t use mine much at the mo, ( lpg died ) and when I do, it’s just popping round town, or over to my mums, 35 miles tops, I know where every pot hole is round here, if I didn’t I’d certainly be running smaller rims.
If I can find a set of 18s that I like I might swap over, as I found them reasonable ride wise on a previous p38, just can’t find the ones I’m after, must of been the dearer option. LoL

Also do the tilt action. Mine definitely needs both done before message disappears.

I love the comments,
The guy who went through a flex plate a year apparently,, or only 3 mpg,, what a load of bollocks,
I’d like to see what there cars are like in 20yrs, oh ,, that’s right, they’d be crushed by then as totally shagged and worth nothing.
gotta luv the idiots who all drive round in there company cars never having to do , or know what maintaining a car is..

I’ve got 20s on mine, the ride is harder, but not to the state that it’s horrible, 16-18 will give a softer ride, depends what your looking for, I like the looks of the 20s compared to what looks like a wheel off a mini on a transit.

You need https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-radius-fitting-tools-p-7647.html
It’s the tool for doing radius bushes,

You don’t need any wiring change to stop the timer, just swap the 5 pin relay for a 4 pin one, only thing is, you need the 5 pin to diagnose any problems, so maybe a switch on one of the wires would do the job !

Another forced member, lol, at the rate RRTH will get us extremely busy..
welcome mpwdhc,, hope all goes well and it lifts up,,

Just did a search, came across the 2015 model,, what a piece of art that is, engraved door handles, interior that is beautiful.
But a price that frightened me, lol

Only ever seen pictures, never come across one. Another rarity I suspect.

Won’t let me open the link,

I’ve got a r/h drive binnacle, but I also don’t keep trim as takes to much space, I’ll speak to Phil up at Boston, as he might have or come across what were after

2 in 1, a feather for your hat, and a free dinner, lol 😂

Try and clean connectors in footwells, though be careful, I unplugged one before to end up with a hand full of wires, that was fun for sure.
Rough idling points to either a lead or plug,
Cruise is most probably the pipe as it goes through bulk head..

I always get bearmach ball joints, as they come with nuts.
How bad were the joints, I found a huge difference when I did mine.
I’m not surprised you bent the press looking at pics, ive Had them go with a bang, only ever had one that needed oxygen to move it. On reassembly, just stick a jack under the hub carrier and the joints hold nicely to put the nuts on without them spinning.
if I was doing everyday I’d pay 400 for a hydraulic press, had a set to fit last week, then all of a sudden the guys not answering his phone, some muppets around..
glad you got them out.. another job well done

Either a obd problem, or connectors in the footwell.
If you search there is a way to jump the connectors,,
was your lynx connecting before ?

The 10 pc kit works, As Marty says, you need to change the bottom fitting, either a smaller sleeve or socket to push on the casing of the ball joint rather than the joint itself. ( it’s quite tight over rubber ) It can be a bit awkward with adapters top and bottom, but once under load with a sharp rap it will move.
Once that ones out, you thread the press threaded part through the top ball joint hole, sleeve and plate with hole on bottom, socket to press down and out.

See pm, otherwise, jack the body, that gives you room to get socket on, I use a 32oz ball pen hammer to shock them into submission, getting the hub off, a disc round the wrong way gives you a whacking point, without ruining your gaitors ( too late I know ) I do these all the time, it’s more technique than anything .