Orangebean wrote:

There is a 4wd rolling road dyno in Plymouth, but it seems like a very expensive exercise, not to mention the mirth it'll cause among the Scooby/ Evo drivers who seem to be resident in the building!

Sounds like we need to invade one day, just to see the look on there faces,, 😳

Why would someone put a paper gasket instead of renewing the O-ring, the mind boggles at some people’s stupidity.
At least you know it’s sorted now,,

Low water level, lift the expansion tank up, stuff a rag under, top up the system

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

If you suspect compressor, undo blue pipe that goes from compressor to block. Run the compressor using nanocom and stick your thumb over the end of the pipe. You shouldn't be able to stop the air coming out. If you can you either need to rebuild the liner and piston seal which is the most common or worst case compressor motor jiggered and need new compressor. Seal kit [here](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-COMPRESSOR-PISTON-LINER-SEAL-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/272849987820?

fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&hash=item3f872068ec:g:qAsAAOSwEeFVGUon). Video instructions here

To visually inspect the liner just watch video above on how to take the compressor head off. 5 minute job
to confirm if it's banjaxed.

The fact compressor is making noise, it’s possible that a rebuild of the liner and ring might not work, could be the bearings gone.
I’ve got a spare compressor if you need it miles, just drop me a line and I’ll UPS it next day..

I don’t think the bolt is stuck, there just bloody tight, that gorilla that worked at
L R done them up. I was swinging on a long bar to get mine undone..

Since my latest engine change, mine never goes over 1/4 of the way up the gauge. Would be interesting to know what mines actually running at, have LR opened up some of the water ways on there later exchange engines ? Hmmmm ! I’m certainly not pulling it apart to find out, I know the engine number was completely different to 60D,, that reminds me I must change it on log book, lol

Orangebean wrote:

If you can't physically move the shifter into low, could it just be some cr@p fallen into the gate, or the arms on the H have been bent?

Good thinking, I’ll be getting the torch out,,

Martyuk wrote:

Flashing beside the gear change is usually a hi/lo transfer case thing rather than gearbox.

Does the dash show the correct gear selection? Does the gear shifter light correspond to the correct gear?

There is a microswitch in the H gate (buried a bit) which is what is triggered to then tell the transfer ECU to move between high/low range. I'd be checking that to see if it is being activated properly.

I would have thought that if it were XYZ switch, then you wouldn't have any gear feedback or it wouldn't match up on the indicator leds/dash to what gear you had selected

Cheers Marty, will have an investigation, as far as I know the gears are showing correctly, think he said happened after flicking sport button..

Just done heads on a 4.6, noticed that the gear shift was flashing, just want to confirm my diagnosis which is xyz switch is knackered, couldn’t actually get the gear shift into low to try and shock it, apparently it’s been like it a while and drives ok, so I’m thinking the xyz has moved but not fully.
Answers on a postcard please

There’s a set on eBay (130806983849) I’m sure OB will confirm if there what your looking for. Of course now you’ve got the job of removing what the idiot who stuffed it up fitted, the old saying, if you want a job done right, do it yourself..

If when it decides to pull left, does a sharp jerk to the right sort the problem?, if so replace the panhard bushes, most importantly replace the bolts ( tighten to correct torque). These bolts have been known to wear,,

OldShep56 wrote:

Have a look in your purchase history and you should find them, BPS

Glad I’m not the only lunatic up at this time, lol

Last one I had wouldn’t undo or do up, just spun, had to weld a new stud in, or get helicoil put in, as the mig was handy you can guess what option it got,,

Those rear bags can be a PIA, I always cut them with a hand saw across the top if there stuck, makes them easy to remove.

Think I’ve still got a few ( manifolds) in the garage if you get stuck. I’d be tempted to drill it out, the fact you’ve cut the side means that stud will have to be welded in.. I’m betting it was rh manifold, the stud furthest right,, or at least that’s the bugger I’ve had grief with before,,

I take it one of your fan relays has burnt the board, personally I think it’s easier to buy another fuse box, to split the boards, adapt, resolder the boards back together takes many hours, ok the fus boxes aren’t cheap, but it will give you many years without having to worry.

The ones I saw in there weren’t Chicago brand griptite, more performance pro I think,,, but looked exactly the same in design,,

Clive603 wrote:

Gawd there's 'undreds of varieties. And I thought all the the motorcycle show stand ones were bad enough back in the day

Clive

Yeah, once you start looking there’s few to choose from, my other half picked my one

eBay item number 272075934399..
They do fleeces and hoodies as well

The other half bought me a tee shirt.
https://imgur.com/a/HdBFV
Hopefully the link works, my first attempt at sharing a pic.