David - I'm not sure I have much more colour - other than I followed RAVE a few months back and had no issues, and didn't have to force anything

Sounds like you are going for a record HG change there, Richard

There are two screw in the track on either side. you only then need to move one of them a cm or so to one side to be able to remove the sun shade. I covered mine in PU leather, rather than the velour - it's harder wearing, and since you will break or lose the clips at the side of the sun shade all you need do is bend the PU up and over the edges of the sun-shade to create the perfect thickness for the runners.

Thanks Marty, i took myseat out and stripped along the lines you suggested. Turned out one of the metal coathanger struts used to brace the seat had skewered the lumbar pump wiring and the insulation on the white wire had melted away

Maybe just terminology, theres a big roll pin inserted into the boss at 45deg, which is how the black knob adjusts the height, and how the arm is stopped from falling off, even if the bolt is out

I dont think BBS give a monkey's tbh. Yes, my IAT reads low, but if you have access to Testbook I'm interested what it reads from the IAT?

Shd be rhs regardless, but i wd go by which side your blue filler cap is on... I think i'm going to need to replace my pump v soon too

PO hadnt put the roll pin back into the boss far enough, so it was never going to come off without something breaking. Think it's recoverable though

I know a PO went in before me, so maybe something is mis-assembled but i'm clueless at the mo....

Thanks, i've done that bit, bolt is out... Now trying to actually get it off... There seem to be a small percentage of users for whom the arm does not come off at 45 degrees, and i'm looking for the sneaky trick

Does anyone have a good trick for removing this? I have set it at 45 degrees up, and the arm rest has moved about 5mm off its boss, but is still pretty tight, and no amount of wiggling has budged it yet.
What am i missing?

Does anyone else feel like the oily bits and electrickery is a false dichotomy... I just find myself having to look in more places anyway, and when doing bodywork/ interior, where does that go?

Guys - you should see David's "home garage"...it is a sight to behold - awesome. David, watch out or you may find yourself hosting the southern rr.pub meet

I just made a mental note to not buy "known good" P38 parts off any e-bayers based in Herefordshire : o)

Sorry - so you're saying the tailgate is locking and unlocking the whole car ?

\If you know your Tekton one is calibrated correctly then you can use that to check the Britool one...albeit not to the top of its' range

My two, one dial and one electronic, both have ratchets. I guess I would struggle tor recall a time that I have ever had to torque a LH thread, on the Defender, or the P38 - but sometimes I've used it to remove a nut if it was in a funny location and for whatever reason the wrench had the "right" geometry for access. So it can be a useful function to have IMHO, unless it's going to save you zillions of £s

I wonder if you're being a bit quick on the key - turning it on, but then letting it turn back... I have noticed with my Defender 4.0 (which I use as my bell weather as I've had it almost from 5 yrs old, it has always been properly serviced and has almost undetectable HC in emissions testing) that if I am a bit quick to release the key ie before the engine's caught then I also have issue on the second turn - assuming same as you, over-fueling.

On the RR 4.6, it is generally well behaved, but in this weather it has missed the odd first-turn - and I haven't yet eliminated that being my poor key-turning etiquette (ie being too accustomed to the instant catch, but being too impatient to wait an extra couple of secs). It hasn't stressed me enough to get the nano out and start looking at temps yet, but I may do out of idle curiosity. I was looking at trims the other day though, and noticed the ECM uses the same 38.75% at start up that it was using in the winter, before the o2 sensors kick in - now, if I can only work out how the ECM determines that start-up value I could maybe fool it. Has anyone decoded the mysteries of the GEMS fuelling tables ? It had a new ECT last year, I can check it, but I doubt it's that.
On the RR, my IAT has an extra resistor across it which gives me an extra 10-15 degree boost, but typically still a few degrees below ambient. I did even have the IAT disconnected for a while (by accident) and although connecting it again it seemed to make starting a bit better, it was not dramatic. Which is all to confirm that the IAT prob doesn't have too much influence, as Rave implies

I don't think using an adapter will be less accurate, however, all torque wrenches have their range... if you use an adapter (either up, or down) it probably means you are operating further away from the mid-point torque for the design. I have a 1/2" Kamasa, which is the normal type with a micrometer-type handle, and a clarkepro 3/8" electronic which is great, as it beeps even when the screen is facing away from you. The 3/8 one is definitely not for you though, as it will only do about 100 ft lbs.

Hi KCR, Do you have a photo of this colour? Are you talking about lightstone (a light beige)?