Gilbertd wrote:

I'm thinking that somehow the ECU has been frigged so it is enabled as soon as the ignition is turned on (ECU from a Morgan perhaps?) but as soon as the key is turn to the starter position a code is sent which is wrong so it is then immobilised. Normally a ground from teh ignition switch goes to the BeCM and, assuming it is happy and the immobiliser isn't triggered, that ground is passed to the fusebox to energise RL16 and fire up the starter. So I suspect the push-button is bypassing the BeCM and applying a ground directly to RL16.

I suppose it's possible that the ECU is already enabled so it is only the BeCM that thinks it is immobilised. In which case, entering the EKA should enable it. Have you got the EKA yet?
Makes sense. My Defender is also 4.0 EFi, and no BeCM, but the EKA (and presumably immobilisation code) comes from a Lucas security pack, so the hack is definitely do-able. The magic starter switch must have been necessitated by something, but what?

Pierre,
Don't worry about searching for black self tappers - put stainless ones in. I'm always amazed how hard it is to remove a rusty screw from plastic. s/s on the other hand, no problem.
BTR4428 for the clips - breaker is the more likely option

Any sign of the starter relay btw (RL16?)/ any missing relays/ fuses in general? How does the fuse box look - any blackened sockets/ burnt smell? Just trying to work out what caused them to do all this re-wiring in the first place

I don't know if it helps Grizzly, but this is off mine - so clear signs that someone has "broken in" to yours (if proof were needed, which it probably isn't )

Dont worry about the alarm sounder, if you want a peaceful life - especially since your wiring's all over the shop. . I wonder if you unwind the pvc tape back to the ECM cable, and look at how it's spliced in, and to what, it may give us a clue as to what they were trying to achieve?

Is the PO uncontactable?

It was me who suggested to just remove one side of the A pillar (on rr.net) - though from the above it sounds like some folks manage without doing either. I'd still suggest you need one side off to be able to slide the windscreeen trim out, and minimise the wear on the plastic clips.

Finding the white plastic clips is like finding rocking horse s*** - don't lose or break them - no pressure

Can we see a photo of the engine/ engine bay? Is this the original engine? Either someone went to a lot of trouble to dismantle the original wiring, or perhaps they replaced the engine and bodged the bare minimum of wiring to make it work. Is the original starter circuit/ wiring intact?

"Starter Motor Relay This relay is also ignition key controlled and is activated with the key in the ignition III position only. Releasing the key after cranking cuts supply to the relay and switches off the starter motor"
"Starting System When the Ignition Switch (X274) is switched to position III, the BeCM (Z238) grounds the starter solenoid relay inside the Engine Compartment Fuse Box (P125) which then energizes, applying battery voltage to the Starter Solenoid (K136) and Starter (M134)"

So maybe it was just that this circuit ceased to work (relay/ fuse box tracks burnt out/ wires melted etc.) and the PO gave up trying to work out why.
Do you have a copy of the Electronic Troubleshooting Manual? check Master Fuse 2/ Relay 16/ wire continuity (page 2 section B1)

Though that doesn't account for the flashing immob. message... so there's probably something else done too

You'll be fine - the screws are hidden under the rubber seal, you won't break anything. Most guides will tell you to leave them dangling once you've slid out the bottom trim - don't- just replace one screw, and yes, one side should be fine, certainly for the initial removal. Nylon mesh is the way to go, and RTV around all the screws at the bottom of the screen & the pollen filters, as you seal her up.

Are you able to talk to the PO and ask what it was that he was trying to achieve, it may be quicker than trying to guess? If you see the "engine immobilised" message, even when the engine is on then god knows how he managed that. Is this the original engine
SRS fault is re the air bag (have you now reconnected it?) I wonder if that's why is was disconnected in the first place?
35mph etc is that the EAS is not happy

Needs someone smarter than me

If you lie on your back under the rear of the car you will either be able to see a black (or more likely v rusty ) metal mud shield which is masking off the inside of the brake disc. Do they have holes in ? (bad sign) have any of the flaky corners bent/ now rubbing on the brake disc. You could remove the wheel for a better view, but I'd lie under it first and have a look. Mine were completely u/s - they're not cheap to replace, even if they must be v cheap to produce.

My rear diff needed doing, but was more of a whine at speed, and a clunk when changing direction in a 3 point turn

Back plates is a good one. They get thin as they rust, and cd easily rub on the brake disc. Bearings Ok?

Hi Symes - welcome to the club. Impressive stable - mine is more linear - Defender and RR, Sounds like you enjoy a good V8 though

Sloth - I see a toaster will be part of your build...in lieu of glow plugs?

no10chris wrote:

Am I the only one whose completely out of there depth with all this 🤣😂🤣
Nope - way over my head

lol, yes, that's the one ! Looks like you're going to have fun

Hi Dan welcome - are you the guy with all the trim in the back of his P38?

Jump the relevant relays and you can see the electric fans working

do you have a link Clive, or the item description? I searched ebay for that item number but it gave me nothing.

Although your initial endorsement of "this will melt all over the windscreen" might make me think twice about actually buying one

Maybe put some of that gunk into (what were) your front tyres to stop the leaks? was v successful on mine. Did you only have tracking checked, or also toe?