Hi Clive.
I had this issue when I got mine a couple of years back.

Mine had been leaking a while, and so you get oil and dust caked on to the fins of everything, and it is very hard to spot the leak. You will have to remove the grille, and then i think you should be able to move the coolers a little to inspect between them - but it will probably be inconclusive. If you have red in the ABS tray under the rad then I guess you have your answer

I see no reason why you can't remove the gear oil cooler without draining the system - up to you when you want to service the box. But, it may get messy - high probability the input hose (the hot one) is "welded" to the aluminium thread on the gear cooler. Even if it does come off - do not be fooled - there will be ali stuck in the threads - cd be best to order a hose in case. But if you have to change the hose then the other end is on the transmission housing - prepare to get ATF down your arm...

I used LRdirect and got a genuine LR cooler - not something I do normally, but if IIRC there is a special mounting on it and i had read some reports that some of the aftermarket ones didn't get it right - and I just wanted an easy life/ straight fit.

According to LR cat the nylon retainers are used i. on the grille and ii. below the windscreen for the plenum etc - so 10-15 shd work

Thanks for trying Richard

For anyone still reading - turns out my AMR 2938 is not a 2938, and the case is stamped 54022544 A127 120A. I'm currently trying to figure out what the hell it is/ where it came from... something that Solihull had left over, or a later addition. All I really want is to replace the VR - although after cleaning up the slip rings she seems to hit 13.9/14 much more consistently, so the current one is more workable now. Unless anyone collects rare alternators ?

I'm in - let's try and do it while it's still warm, but not so soon that a bunch of P38 owners trigger a second wave. Peterborough or Swindon are probably similar distances for me. Touch wood I have nothing to fix... well, maybe the headliner if i really run out of things to do/ haven't found myself a job by then

Wow, very impressive Marty

Thanks Tanis. I've found a 14V replacement for the AMR4272 100A (MM no was RTM 153B) - the 120A AMR 2938 is proving more elusive though - I pulled the alternator off, and the regulator has RTM123A on it. I've sightly given up on the higher set point notion, although the old MM ones simply have a std voltage regulator soldered in, so I briefly entertained the notion that I could solder in a new one with a higher set point, but then remembered I have a near-zero chance of ever finding said component and I have better things to do with life. I guess it's not impossible that a PO replaced the alternator at some point, either, so I may be chasing shadows

I got mine from RTG on ebay about 9 months ago - seem fine. Bearing in mind that any 2nd hand ones you buy could come from absolutely anywhere, and be of any age. I'm not even sure that the originals came from Wabco anyway, I think Bosch, perhaps

My injector loom also crispy, but holding on - the less I touch it the better.

between the boards I would also add something dry to wick the moisture out - the wife's best fluffy towels should do the trick. Since you've brutalised the foam already, maybe it can go into a clothes drier in sections?

I must be bored, but my alternator kicks out anything from 13.7 to 14.0 (scraping 14.1 sometimes). I have an S4 Bosch battery (which says that the min voltage shd be 12.4V to avoid damage). It's hard to figure out if the Bosch (Varta) battery contains calcium - multiple searches are completely silent - so I guess that means not, although Battery Megastore says it is - Bosch themselves don't seem to say

I'm obviously not getting to drive it much these days, but battery voltage falls below 12.4V fairly often - that said, I never have problems cranking. If the voltage drops then I chuck it on a smart charger every few weeks, and now I have a solar panel on the parcel shelf (jury's still out on that). Guessing that my set point is about 14.0V currently (which I think was on spec for the year/model) then should I look for a VR with a higher set point ? Does anyone have a positive ID on one?

Glad it got fixed. I sealed mine up last time I was closing it - pretty sure I used RTV. In case it's of use, while investigating the 16 way connector in the LH panel that insists on going green, i traced a weep of water to an internal seam that is 8-12 inches above it - you need to be on your back looking up. I just about manged to get some RTV on it. I couldn't for the life of me find the outside of that seam, it's either stuck behind the wing panel, or just possibly it's accessible if the pollen filters and their housings are stripped out. I'll look next time I'm in there (may it be many years hence)

So, charger fitted. I used the connector in the left rear 1/4 that should connect with the aux power socket. I had to repin it as the +ve connection had packed up.
Thus far...does around 60ma in shade, up to 1A in the direct sun, so I don't think I'll ever be over-charging the battery. The tinting in the rear tailgate glass seems to block about 1/4 of the power.

I think I'd focus on getting power to the Obd connector, then deploy nanocom - switch/ power testing becomes a whole lot easier at that point

Mine too (Apr 98 production), sorry

Loving that George B.. We could definitely do with having a "Like" button on here

Changing the heights, Leo? I've got all heights set up like this, with no ill effects. What happened?

Agree with all the above - you can just use 30mm dowel, or a suitable broom handle.

I would just input all the settings below first, and see if it improves things (after you take a photo of all the current height settings). Then use the calibration blocks at std height only. You will then have adjustments on each corner which you can extrapolate for the other heights if you can't be bothered to cut another 3 sets of blocks and then fit them all - then again, you may have nothing better to do at the moment.

FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75

Use the force Leo.... those 100/105 ones are ok. I agree they "look" short, but surprisingly, they do the job. You could do worse than just input these values (set by set, the ECU will not take them all at once), I suggest yoy take photos of all the old settings first. It is a matter of dispute, but these seem to be default values based on one/ two peaople who experienced them showing up magically in EAS settings), and are more or less mid way between the technical min/ max for each setting (verifiable to EAS system docs). Once you have a standard start point then you can try the 100/ 105 at standard and see what your bit count variances are at each corner. It's likely you'll need similar adjustments (pro-rata) at the other heights - but if you have blocks for all and time on your hands then obv. you can calibrate all heights

FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75

Are X8R still shipping? If not, I have a kit I was planning to use to refurb a back-up EAS block and compressor...

Good idea Dave